Outrigger canoe Ama design considerations

the only snag is cutting really straight lines- as long as your gluing pieces og XPS together, you might think about gluing the plywood in before you start shaping so you can use factory cut edges, which are really straight. Of course then you have to worry about the plywood edges, but a sure form and sandpaper can deal with 3mm Okume with care- cutting the plywood before you glue helps, and can act as a guide to shaping. This will work with longitudinal stringers too. BUT! It seems shapers are split about which way to go. FWIW I ruined a beautiful 16’ by 30” by 4” higher density XPS blank I had just shaped when I was cutting it down the middle to glue in a central longitudinal stringer and the blade caught. I suppose with enough practice a Pull Saw can cut a perfectly straight line, but every blank becomes a possible practice session in that scenario.

 

As Div 2 boards got rounder and rounder, pretty much the only thing that kept them upright were the DB/CB’s & with better section selection & production led to ‘vanging’ (sometimes called railing or rolling) the hull with foot or feet on the windward rail. I vaguely remember a dustup concerning whether DBs should float or not. I only had a couple of skegs that floated- none in 30” span. Little keels?

 

Not necessary as it's a surface that will be shaped/faired anyway.

Again, not necessary as they are shaped/faired surfaces, not straight lines.

I think there is some confusion here regarding my process.
The shaped foam profile can be used as a template on the ply bulkhead being cut.
Shaping it slightly undersized ensures it doesn't protrude from the shaped foam and all can be easily laid-up with the finished e-glass.

 

left brain / right brain? Both work.