Glass strength WR v Biax

If you have to build a 7000gsm layup and doing it by hand and choosing between woven roving and biax for this mould; what is the theory between using biax or woven roving 600g?

I just want to understand the differences and where/how to apply what layer.

The mould has partall#10 and wax and the mould it not perfect; designed just for forming, not perfection.

 

Also, I have 6oz cloth.

And a bit worried about damaging the partall#10 film, so consider all of that as well.

 

If you are making a mold use whatever is the cheapest, it won't make much of a difference. Roving will print on the surface more than biax, but both will. A layer or three of CSM will reduce the fiber print, using only CSM will reduce it more. But this only factors in if cosmetics come into play on the finished part.

For a part the fabric choice may make a big difference.

 

In a polyester or VE hand layup cloth is almost worthless in most applications for strength.

Frequently biax parts that are sufficiently strong may flex too much for some applications, roving builds more bulk with a higher resin content, so may be used if a thicker cross section is required.

I didn't go back and read exactly what you're making, so my comments may be off target.

 

Not at all.

I am building bulbous bows.

I have stocks of both. The original spec was 2x wr400,2x wr600,4x biax600,2x wr600

Just want to understand the way to marry biax and roving

 

part is under water when on the boat