Garvey dory build

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by JP in FL, Nov 10, 2022.

  1. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member

    Oh, I understand. But these boats don't last in Florida. If he epoxy coats the frame and the plank; it would have a better chance I'd say, but not like monocoque.
     
  2. Blueknarr
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    Blueknarr Senior Member

    Agree
    Preseal prior to assembly will yield the best lifespan.
    Clearcoat interior, paint exterior and store upside-down.
    Should last a decade or so.

    Let rain collect in painted interior--might as well fill with kerosene and toss matches.
     
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  3. gonzo
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    gonzo Senior Member

    This is a boat with pine sides and Menard's 1/4 underlayment plywood on the bottom with a couple of pine runners. It has the seams fiberglassed with mat and polyester. I gave it one coat of oil fence stain on the inside and oil based paint outside. This is the boat floating after three years of living outside. It stayed on the water up to four days at a time.
     
  4. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member

    not in Florida, though, right?
     
  5. gonzo
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    gonzo Senior Member

    No, but the weather changes and humidity are just as hard on wood.
     
  6. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member

    Not really. If you flip that lovely dinghy over in the winter; it gets a nice drying out. A 19' glassed one side plank on frame boat in Florida never dries out..

    Maybe the OP can get a custom cover made, etc., but that is going to be a hard boat to keep from rotting...
     
  7. JP in FL
    Joined: Nov 2022
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    Location: Ocala Florida

    JP in FL Junior Member

    Longevity was honestly my biggest concern. I had apprehensions about the design because dealing with rotted wood is something I do quite frequently in my second job. My concerns were assuaged by all of the glowing reviews and reports of long life from fellow builders but climate may certainly have had a great deal to do with that. I am truly second guessing my build.
    I’ve decided to make a scaled down version before I start the main project this summer (and while I consider my alternatives). I’ve modified the plans to make a 14’ version. Hopefully I can make all mistakes on it. (and learn from them) I spent my lunch hour…and maybe a bit of salaried time…today making a scaled model from card stock to make sure my measurements work. And the curves have a clean sweep. I’m going to share this, please be gentle.[​IMG]

    my goal was not beauty or perfection. Im glad I took the time. I found out that frame two didn’t have enough spread and didn’t follow a clean curve.
    At least if this one doesn’t last it will be a fraction of the cost of the larger version as I won’t be putting in steering or other amenities I had planned in the larger build and should scoot along with a 10hp outboard.
    Tomorrow I’m off to my hardwood supplier. He has a bang up deal on some 6/4 walnut. These boards will become my frame members, keelson, and chines.
    Im still having trouble sourcing marine ply in Ocala. I may have to take a couple hour trip to find some. I’m also not quite sure what thickness to use for my new design. The original plan called for 1/2“ sides and 5/8” bottom. Should I scale down for the smaller boat?

    Ill snap some pics of the rough lumber and the milling process to update later. Until then, any advice on ply thickness, or sourcing for that matter if you live near me, would be appreciated.

    in the mean time, I would love some suggestions for boats which may fare better in my climate. I'd like to look into other options although budget for some of the more expensive methods of constructions may push the project back another summer. At least I’ll have a little skiff to keep me busy in the mean time.
     
  8. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member

  9. JP in FL
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    JP in FL Junior Member

    It’s just what’s available. None of it will be 6/4 after jointing and planing. I’ll be milling the frames down to 1”, chines to 3/4”. Hoping to find some 8/4 so I can have some 1 1/2” for the transom.
     
  10. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member

    The transom should be plywood. If you want a decorative wood face; it is done as a veneer or like veneer.
     
  11. Blueknarr
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    Blueknarr Senior Member

    The big difficulty with fg over framing is all the framing corners.
    One solution is to scarf the plywood into long sheets. Put fg cloth on one side. Then place the fg coated side towards the framing. This makes the plywood harder to bend.

    Another solution is to temporarily attach plywood to framing. Glass the outside. Remove framing and glass the interior. Adjust framing for the glassed dimensions then reinstall framing.
     
  12. JP in FL
    Joined: Nov 2022
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    Location: Ocala Florida

    JP in FL Junior Member

    I managed to cart some lumber home this evening. The sun setting at 5:45pm is really putting a hamper on after work activities. I was a bit dismayed at first. The quality of the walnut lumber was greatly exaggerated and after picking through I found only about half of what I needed. Then I spied a pile of white oak. Nice stuff. Straight grained with a knot here and there. Nothing I can’t work around.

    I should have plenty to finish framing.

    I also found marine plywood near me. For posterity, Yandle's lumber in Ocala not only was happy to order it for me, they were some of the most customer service focus folks I’ve come across.

    Milling begins over thanksgiving week. I’ll update when appropriate.
     
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  13. JP in FL
    Joined: Nov 2022
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    Location: Ocala Florida

    JP in FL Junior Member

    Let’s talk fasteners. With my plywood coming in next week, I’m trying to get my ducks in a row. The fasteners I’m speaking of now would serve to build frame members and attach plywood from the outside. I have a few options available to me. While bronze silicone would be my first choice, it is simply far too expensive considering how many fasteners are needed. Here are the ideas I’ve come up with:


    1. Brass. I have a good amount of brass fasteners I picked up on grainger at a discount. Having worked with them before, I am aware that they are not very strong in sheer strength and that I would have to pre drill every hole or risk stripping or breaking screws.


    2. stainless deck screws. They are relatively cheap, easily available, and stronger than brass. I have a suspicion that the stainless used is not of a quality that will stand up to salt for very long.


    3. dowels. I could clamp everything with drywall screws or the like until the glue sets, pull them, drill out the holes and drive in dowels with epoxy. This would add a considerable amount of time to the build but I’m not trying to win a race. I do have concerns about the lack of physical fasteners and wonder if I would be sacrificing strength in doing things this way.


    any suggestions would be appreciated.
     
  14. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member


  15. JP in FL
    Joined: Nov 2022
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    Location: Ocala Florida

    JP in FL Junior Member

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