An Old Worn Out Boat, Prime Candidate for Cold Molding?

Alan, chines are sharp transitions in the outside skin of a boat, there are no internal or external chines. Longitudinal framing members are called stringers. Some stringers have their own name like chine log, clamp, shelf. Carvel boats are always transverse framed, regardless if they have additional stringers or not.
Adding stringers on the outside of carvel planking would destroy the smooth outside and achieve nothing.

Cold molding or thin glass necessarily glues itself to the planks replacing most of the frames transverse strength, only the bulkheads and main framing still do work and must be in good order.
The only way to ignore the entire existing structure is thick glass, creating a new monocoque shell around the existing boat. The wood becomes a plug and could be removed entirely, it serves no purpose.

 

There has got to be some kind of rubberized sealer that I could coat the topsides in, that would give me at least a couple years before worrying about an all out deck replacement?

The deck, for the most part, is completely sealed still...

I feel like there has gotta be a product out there that would address the slightly leaking deck and hatches for some decent period of time. If it all is going to have to get torn off anyways why not paint it in something and try to get a few years out of it first?

 

epoxy, but it'll speed rot

 

I had heard that epoxy on the topsides being so hard is likely to crack, no?

 

Hi AlanX,

I got the measurements together:

LWL: 52'10"
BWL: 14'1"
TC: 8'3"
Displacement: 28 Tons
Max speed: ~ 8knots
Frame Spacings: From center of frame to center of frame, the spacings vary from 11", 11.5", 12", 12.5",13".
Hull Thickness: 3/4"
Frame Dimensions: 2 1/8"x 2 1/8"

I still need to make a map of the condition of each frame...

 

If coating in epoxy would speed rot, would it be better, last longer just not to cover it? And spot treat significant leaks with a flexible epoxy?

 

If you have one area or three of rot; you fix them. The conditional you present is false.

if sealing in epoxy hastens rot, not sealing in epoxy doesn't stop the rot; it just may offer a chance for it to dry out, but most likely a leak needs fixin more than anything,

Sealing a good structure free of rot is a good way to go,

 

Hi @WhiteRabbet,

The TC is too large for 28 ton or the 28 ton is too low, and is that a short or long ton? I work in metric tonnes.
Tc is the draft of the canoe body from the water line to the midsection rabbet (given your name I suspect you know this!).

As the max speed is below hull speed, is this a sail boat? Just checking as a different calculation applies.

To begin (worst case) the frame spacing is around the mid-section.

I will be using AS4132 but can rework to ISO12215-5 later.

Basically I am checking that I come up with the same frame spacings and dimensions.

Straight away the frame spacing (~12") tells me that the boat is likely all transverse framing.

AlanX

 

Ignore all and any advice to use epoxy of any kind and or fiberglass cloth on the boat. It is a bad idea. My 1970 eggharbor 37 is sealed with loctite pl polyurethane mixed with sawdust in the seams. Then overcoated with pl roof and flashing poly mixed with milled fg fibers and has been since 2014.

 

In fact another 37 egg owner in Chicago has done the same and so far is happy. He saw my info online and contacted me.

 

My whole premise is a timber boat must be allowed to move as it will move. And any sealers or glues must move also. I have thought a xynole fabric could be used with loctite pl as it can stretch.

My boat is still a working boat. All the doomsayers have been silenced by my continued success

 

I don't often post. Here is my 2014 haul showing these things
The pics show the hull coating I used. But back earlier in 2006 I had sealed the seams with pl poly construction adhesive mixed with 30 to 40% wood sawdust. It works great.
https://goo.gl/photos/Y876jwe1jceTp9Zz6

 

You ought to realize the context. He wants to put a coating over rotten material.

 

Hi Alan,
I assume it is a short ton, as it was designed & built in the US.
That is in fact the measurement as you described for TC.
Its a motor sailer

The carving note says “Net 24”
The registration says 28 tons.

Off the blueprint it says:
WL 46’6
LOA 55’-1/4”
Beam 15’-1/4”
Draft 5’3”

 

Sdowney,

Wow!

I like what you’re saying a lot…
And the pics are very informative, thank you!

So you used this on the hull you’re saying, right? It’s black, and you can paint over it?! With bottom paint or potentially something on the topsides?