Cold-moulding vs. Fiberglass sheathing

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by Chris Merriam, May 19, 2006.

  1. Rumars
    Joined: Mar 2013
    Posts: 1,801
    Likes: 1,123, Points: 113, Legacy Rep: 39
    Location: Germany

    Rumars Senior Member

    You need to understand how the different methods work.
    1. Thick fiberglass sheating. We are talking about minimum one inch of glass, usually in polyester. This creates a new monocoque glass hull, the old wood is just a liner on the inside, it can rot in peace until it dissappears on its own. The 5200 was used as a barrier coat over the wet wood, to allow the resin to polimerize correctly. Fishing boats had no time to dry out, just scrape away most of the paint, isolate the wood and start laminating.
    2. Thin fiberglass sheating. This is a waterproofing layer, if the underlying wood is not sound the wood will move and crack the glass.
    3. Cold molding: like thin fiberglass but with more structural support. Any rot present in the original wood will transmit to the new wood. Old wood needs to be dried to epoxy specifications.

    I advise you open a new thread describing your particular situation, then we can discuss options.
     

  2. WhiteRabbet
    Joined: Aug 2020
    Posts: 35
    Likes: 2, Points: 8
    Location: Pacific Coast

    WhiteRabbet Junior Member

    Rumars, please take a look at the new thread I created, "An Old Worn Out Boat, Prime Candidate for Cold Molding?"

    Thanks
     
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