Sea Sled madness. It’s in my brain.

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by DogCavalry, Nov 11, 2019.

  1. DogCavalry
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    DogCavalry Senior Member

    20210905_142244.jpg 20210905_142142.jpg 20210905_121014.jpg 20210905_112626.jpg 20210905_112526.jpg
    Today's work. A heavy roll of glass. Not terribly cheap. The undersides of all the cockpit sole pieces. Stack them up as I go.
    The where they are going. You can see the distance below the plane of my laser, marked in mm's. And amount to add or subtract marked in red.
     
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  2. BlueBell
    Joined: May 2017
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    BlueBell . . . _ _ _ . . . _ _ _

    More good progress.
    I love the roller!
    You had to buy more biax?
    I thought you had way more than enough in the original order, no?
     
  3. DogCavalry
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    DogCavalry Senior Member

    It's the second box of 14oz. Just opened it yesterday. Had it a year. Down to 60l of A, 30l of part B though. There will be far more glass than resin left over.
     
  4. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member

    If you neatcoat the panels; the next day you can get more aggressive with less epoxy, but if you get tight on first pass; you can get the glass sucked dry by the ply. It is a little counterintuitive.

    Another thing I recommend is a short list of epoxy needs.

    At a buck an ounce, if you mix say 14 oz epoxy for a yard of glass, and you are able to squeegee off 2 oz, you can mix some cabosil and as long as the epoxy is slow stuff, you have sime time to use the filler mixture. But damned if I can remember, so I make a list of all the spots.
     
  5. DogCavalry
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    DogCavalry Senior Member

    That's good advice. I have some dry patches during the first work I did, since then I've been pretty generous with the epoxy. Definitely used more than needed. Probably add an extra 100# at the end.
     
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  6. DogCavalry
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    DogCavalry Senior Member

    20210906_143345.jpg
    Well, now those floors are in plane, within a mm.
     
  7. DogCavalry
    Joined: Sep 2019
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    DogCavalry Senior Member

    20210911_151358.jpg 20210911_141409.jpg 20210911_113320.jpg
    More on the transom area tomorrow. Stairs are glassed in today. Finished using the force, because it was too dark to see.
     
  8. DogCavalry
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    DogCavalry Senior Member

    20210912_170716.jpg 20210912_170657.jpg 20210912_125917.jpg 20210912_125849.jpg 20210912_102410.jpg Rear side decks, from 2x6, transom upper edge, now with 2x layers of 14oz(450g) glass. Front steps up to foredeck complete. Dont know yet how I'll build the last removable piece of foredeck. It needs to be strong, yet easily removable. Anchor windlass underneath.
     
  9. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member

    You need to make gutters for that last lid?
     
  10. DogCavalry
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    DogCavalry Senior Member

    Maybe. Must figure it out.

    Maybe just pressure fit gaskets on all edges. Force it into place, held by the seals.
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2021
  11. DogCavalry
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    DogCavalry Senior Member

    That space under the foredeck, between the ram and the stairs will house the anchor windlass. Lots of water and mud getting in there anyway. Maybe I should just bore a hole through the bottom of the compartment and out of the hull. Nothing fancy, just a bathtub drain. It's over a yard, just under a meter to the water at that point. Hardly likely to take any in.
     
  12. DogCavalry
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    DogCavalry Senior Member

    20210916_181851.jpg 20210916_194907.jpg
    Cleats to support the floor under the freeing port gutter.
     
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  13. DogCavalry
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    DogCavalry Senior Member

    And that little rectangle is the other side. 20210721_210534.jpg
     
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  14. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member

    At first I thought you meant the piece of paper.
     
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  15. DogCavalry
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    DogCavalry Senior Member

    "Little rectangle" isn't exactly clear, is it? The black sharpy marker rectangle drawn on the hull about 3' down from the side deck is what I meant. I'm working up the nerve to cut those out.
     
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