Sea Sled madness. It’s in my brain.

I'm thinking sacrificial 2 x 2's just screwed to the frames, 4" or 5" centres.
(EDIT: John says he wants strong points for tie-downs so through bolted, not screwed.)
Even undersized 1/2" ply with a large gap all the way around, sacrificial again, uncoated.

Good work today!

 

So, do those three forward holds drain into the cockpit, is that what determined floor height in there?

If you're still thinking windlass, it may be an idea to fit the haus pipe before installing the foredeck.
However, it can be done later if location is unknown.

 

Yes, exactly. They all drain though BH1 into the cockpit.
The center section of the foredeck is not fixed. Hinged or lift-out. Windlass under there. So hawes pipe an easy fit. And spurling pipe to port, into the chain locker.

 

Ah yes, it's all coming back to me now.

Consider painting those floor holds gloss white for inspection purposes.
Your sight-glass or little-round-window inspection port-lights idea for the floor holds may benefit from LED lighting.
Would look really cool at night too, dockside.

 

Gloss white! Such a great idea.

 

The massive drain grate for the also massive freeing ports goes in that hole. After I put in the bottom of the gutter that is.

The cockpit has dinner seating for 8. Might get more comfy seats.

 

That sledgehammer gotta go. That is a tool not for boat building.

How you getting rid of water again? I don't see any scuppers.

 

The big hole in front of the cabin door is the scupper.

 

I would strongly recommend you add a "rain-drain" in all four corners of the forward cockpit.
Especially considering the bow down attitude dockside.
Any list/heel/wind dockside will allow rain to collect in one corner until it reaches the grate ...
How deep will it get, as the boat heels from the added rainwater weight, before it reaches the grate?
Oh, and how much sleep will you lose listening to the rain beat down from your cozy bed at home.
Your call.

PS Edit: For the record, I am not a fan of the grate in front of the door.
You could run a sloping hose aft to the "gutter" from the forward rain-drains to avoid drilling more holes in your hull.

 

As near as I can tell, under normal conditions Serenity will be 3° down by the head. The tangent of 3° times the 56" from the forward edge of the grate to bulkhead 1 gives a fall of 2.9". The total area of the cockpit sole in the effected area is 36 square feet. Half of 2.9" over 36sf, in rain water is roughly 265#. Enough to depress her another half inch. Which adds another 46# holding capacity, which in turn brings her down another
¹/¹⁶".
Homeostasis is achieved at 3" standing water against bulkhead #1, an extra 320#, 4° down by the head.

I'll add a couple dribble ports in those forward corners to avoid the scum lines.

 

But I was referring to roll and heel and list, you've covered off pitch.
And your numbers don't seem to add up.
This is not about scum lines, I guess I didn't make my point very well.
But hey, if you're good, I'm good.
Carry-on.

 

The heeling stability is higher. Remember @Ad Hoc 's hydrostatics? A ton hard against one bulwark makes a 7° list. A 7° list could hold 287# of water. So there's no listing issues.
The big grate is just a freeing port. Definitely need little drains at the corners to deal with rain water pooling.

 

Concur. And not so small that every leaf and petal from flowers clogs it up in minutes!

 

I am a forum member on bateau.com. I was going to build the LB26 and still love the boat, but decided to build Wood's Skoota instead.

Quite a few of the forum members there have had trouble misjudging the waterline and scuppers are sometimes creating a wet boat. They are also a significant source of leaks if the builder makes the slightest error (think pinhole). For these reasons, I am not big fan of putting the exits under an inaccessible sole. If you insist on the method, consider grates on the sides so you can at least get to the edges.

I seem to recall you saying you were 6-7" above dwl at the exit. Make sure to do a couple - three coats of raw epoxy on all wood surfaces. Double check your worst case scenario for distance above dwl. A guy on the forums with a panga says he has to wear knee boots cuz his boat is 3" deep when he is loaded up. Course, it is a panga; this ain't.

Anyhow, I think this is the 2nd time I mentioned a few of these. Still tryin to change your mind I suppose. But it is your boat. I just have a vision of that deck loaded up and the drains letting water fill the lower section and then your scenario is not as good as a scupper 7" higher.

Make sure to also neat coat or glass the sole bottom above the drains or it'll rot faster, too. The cleating as well, and ideally you'd tab the seams between sole and cleats and hull to avoid seam ingress, but that will be hard unless you grate each side.

 

There won't be anything each side. A couple huge holes you could pass a stacked pair of 2x12's through from one side of the boat to the other. So I can reach in through, and join hands with someone reaching down through the 1' by 2' hole in the sole. Comparable slots above the sole will drain water equally fast, but will never not be taking in spray or gulping the occasional sharp wave under way. Clamshells restrict flow so massively they reduce the ports to a small fraction of their value. Flaps can get jammed or smashed off.

The big takeaway here for me is rain water pooling. That's real. For that I'll add small weep holes angled sharply aft and down.