Deck Striping

I’m and avid boat /water enthusiast - so much that when we decided to renovate our home, we decided to build a set of stairs to look like a classic boat. They are about to be installed and look amazing (mahogany) but the striping that was put on is yellow from the polyurethane to protect the wood.
I’ve read where others have used a striping tool to go over the caulk?

and I’ve tried using automotive Bed liner paint by Raptor-taped lines, added the paint, used a putty knife and vibrated the boards to get it to lay flat, but still get air bubbles and it doesn’t look smooth. Help!

I love the look of the white lines, rather than the amber! My question is- do I find someone who can stripe with a striping tool and have them go over the caulk? The caulk is really smooth that is already in the boards.

The first photo is the caulk (photo doesn’t show the amber as well) and the second is the close up of my attempt with the paint.
Help!

Honestly, most boat white lines get uv protectants, too.

In order to make your steps stark white; if I am following you; you'd need to break or caulk over the urethane bonds. Then you'd probably like them less. Broken, uneven varnish edges.

-dirt and debris would find its way onto the white caulk lines and they would require constant cleaning. It does appear to me to be the case the white lines are lower, so they will be dirt catchers already, but not sticky, hard to clean dirt catchers

The white paint is the wrong paint and has no key. Stop using it. Looks terrible. Urethane coatings require urethane paint, but you'd need to sand for key and the paint would edge climb and edges might be ugly steps. Don't bother. Ever heard peanut butter jelly rule? You don't apply hard paint over softer varnishes either. Foot traffic will move the paint.

I think you need to accept the results. They look really nice, will be easier to clean; should wear decently, not fade in the sun.

If you wanted to try an alternative; you could use seadek, but it is $250 for 39" wide by 77", and the stripes run the long way.

As Fallguy said

"Accept the results"

Teak and holly is never snow white! The protective varnish/urathane always yellows.

Period end of story!

The only time I have seen pure white teak n holly is in a Snobb Hill apartment. The owner paid over $10 grand every three months to have it refinished. Wish I could afford $40 grand a year on floor maintenance.

If you want it pure white you have to do it differently. Make the stripes out of white plastic and varnish the boards separately. The boards get a groove and the stripes look like crosses. Otherwise the result you got is the best you can hope for.

What about making the white stripes out of PVC? Use Titebond PVC Adhesive to glue it up and Verithane, water-based spar varnish. The new water-based spar varnishes are easier to apply, have nearly the equal UV protection, you can get more coats on faster, are odor free and most of all, don't have the yellowing agent in them. You may need to revarnish more often, but it is a much easier job.

I do woodburning on outdoor art pieces and that's what I finish my artwork in.


-Will (Dragonfly)

Even water bourne finished will yellow.
Yellowing is not added to any modern varnish. Hasn't been for a few hundred years.

Blueknarr said:

Even water bourne finished will yellow.
Yellowing is not added to any modern varnish. Hasn't been for a few hundred years.

Click to expand...

Water-based polyurethane Vs. Oil-based polyurethane https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/5881/water-based-polyurethane-vs-oil-based-polyurethane
"What are they like?
Oil-based first since this came first:

• Naturally coloured, from a light yellow to something more amber.
• Because the oil base discolours over time these varnishes discolour, going slightly more yellow/ochre after a number of years (how much and how fast depends on total light exposure and the thickness of the application

...
Waterbased polys:

• Won't yellow."

This is consistent with my understanding.

For woodburning, high contrast is best, so keeping light wood light in color is ideal.

-Will (Dragonfly)

The oil used is inherently slightly yellow and continues to yellow with exposure.

Urathane resin is also slightly yellow. Water bourne is significantly less than oil bourne, but still yellows with UV exposure.

Acrylic starts slightly blue but will still eventually yellow. It's the gate of all paint resin systems. Acrylic is often avoided because of its initial off couleration.

Clear coat acrilic lacquer developed for the automotive industry takes the longest time to yellow.

Since most woods have some yellow, slightly yellow clear coats usually aren't problematic. Unless one is trying to maintain a snow white element inlayed in the wood.