solid Iroko cabin trunk

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by John Dickie, May 14, 2020.

  1. John Dickie
    Joined: Apr 2019
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    John Dickie Junior Member

    Hi Rumars, the plans appear to say 2&half inch #12 bronze screws

    IMG_20200515_082349.jpg
     
  2. John Dickie
    Joined: Apr 2019
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    John Dickie Junior Member

    Hi Bajansailor, here's a photo. Doing deck seams with Jeffries Marin e Glue-plagued by bubbles.
     

    Attached Files:

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  3. Rumars
    Joined: Mar 2013
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    Rumars Senior Member

    Nice boat. Interesting decking pattern. The bubbles in Jeffries can be smoothed out with a big soldering iron.

    I would laminate the sides with 6-8mm veneers. Then I would probably deviate from the plans and glue the sides to the carlins, beside screwing it to them and a toepiece outside.
     
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  4. John Dickie
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    John Dickie Junior Member

    Thanks all for the unput. I will steam bend with a backing strsp and scarf afterwards. The curve is 270mm,as I changed the trunk curvature to match the deck plank curvature. Wish me luck:)
     
  5. Rumars
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    Rumars Senior Member

    I hope it all goes well and you post pictures.
     
  6. John Dickie
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    John Dickie Junior Member

    Will do, but will be a month or so. 10days and a third of the way caulking the deck.....
     
  7. Rumars
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    Rumars Senior Member

    You may want to present your project to the good people at forum.woodenboat.com There are people there who did (and some still do) this kind of thing for a living.
     
  8. John Dickie
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    John Dickie Junior Member

    steam bending toe rail components IMG_20200605_163555.jpg
     
  9. John Dickie
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    John Dickie Junior Member

    IMG_20200705_123130.jpg
    Timber to be bent in foreground, bending jig centre, steambox behind, leverage at right
     
  10. John Dickie
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    Location: South Africa

    John Dickie Junior Member

    IMG_20200705_134433.jpg
    Timber with backing strap on bending jig
     
  11. John Dickie
    Joined: Apr 2019
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    John Dickie Junior Member

    20220825_150240.jpg
    Making rectangular Spruce main mast and Douglas Fir Mizzen.This is looking down on the mast step of a 35ft steel ketch:its a 35mm thick "teak" plank bolted to 8mm steel T step.Its looking a bit puny to me.I would appreciate any opinions.
    20220825_150741.jpg
     
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  12. Rumars
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    Rumars Senior Member

    The plank is mostly there to keep the mastfoot from sliding around when stepped. Once loaded all the compression forces go into the steel. I would recommend some kind of weephole(s) so any moisture can escape. If you want it more sturdy weld a box with outside gusstes to the step instead of the plank.
     
  13. gonzo
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    gonzo Senior Member

    That is a really nice job. The metric tape will confuse many people on this side of the ocean ;)
     
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  14. John Dickie
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    John Dickie Junior Member

    Thanks Rumars,Gonzo,maybe I'm over-thinking the forces on the mast heel.I was just suprised how long 13.6m is,and just how heavy a 102kg bare pole is.
    John
     

  15. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member

    It is really beautiful. I have little to offer here beyond marveling at the work. Keep giving us little dog treats of pictures. Thanks.
     
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