1. DogCavalry
    Joined: Sep 2019
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    DogCavalry Senior Member

    There's no tunnel clearance. The tunnel vanishes to zero at the transom.
     
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  2. fallguy
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    fallguy Senior Member

    I wondered. Guess I could have looked at the pictures.
     
  3. DogCavalry
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    DogCavalry Senior Member

    Lol! I am literally trying to upload one now, but not enough signal. But some great pix in the build thread.
     
  4. DogCavalry
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    DogCavalry Senior Member

    20200229_181917.jpg There ya go.
     
  5. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member

    How many feet of surface in width? Looks like 15? 15'/4 is 4. Or 100 feet of glass to cover. 20' is 5 or say 125' to cover.

    Ever put a tape to it? Sure isn't 30.
     
  6. DogCavalry
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    DogCavalry Senior Member

    It's exactly 10' in beam, 26' long. So 10 feet, 5 feet up each side, 10 feet across the deck. 30 feet.
     
  7. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member

    Oh...the deck adds 10 feet.

    But you don't need to glass the deck same as hull. Depends a bit on how you intend to build the deck, but you only need 12-17 oz on the deck top ftmp. The deck bottom gets epoxy coated.

    If you build the deck off the boat; then you would glass the bottom side I suppose. But I would assume the deck is like 6-12mm okume. It doesn't get all that glass.

    It does need tabbing in either with the glass to sheath it or glass tapes. I have not built many speedboat decks in wood; just one. 6mm okume on frames. Another sailboat; same. Glued on speedboat with devil spit. I would use thickened epoxy for yours as I did for sailboat. If you have a camber; you can use screws to temp hold it. If you want to bright finish okume; you'd use thixo and ratchet straps on timbers.

    point is; not that much glass there
     
  8. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member

    For your boat, due to rough water handling; you probably need to tab in well. The way you do that is the plywood or deck bottom is precoated and sanded with 40-60 grit. Then you apply the thixo and mechanically attach the deck. Then you immediately crawl under and pull out all the squeezeout with a 3-4" trowel. Then you fillet the next day and glass tape the deck to the frames. I would use like two 4" glass tapes 1708 staggered. Tapes are never stacked unless unavoidable.

    All your frames also need precoating and sanding. Wood sux resin and will cause dryjoint if you fail to take the issue seriously.
     
  9. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member

    Is the transom built with pu glue?

    Not sure I like that...I just am not familiar with how flexible it stays. I suppose you can glass the **** out of it. Did you build it 1.5"?
     
  10. fallguy
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    fallguy Senior Member

    Sorry. I suppose this needs to go back over to the build thread.
     
  11. DogCavalry
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    DogCavalry Senior Member

    Lol! A wealth of practical knowledge. But yes, I'll join you over in the build thread.
     
  12. Chris Rogers
    Joined: Apr 2020
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    Location: Boston, MA

    Chris Rogers Junior Member

    Just another data point...

    I agree Kevlar is a pain - but I have had very good luck (like a decade of it) with a thick (1/8") kevlar felt vacuum bagged on the skeg and bottom of a rowboat that get's lots of dragging and bumping. The vacuum bagging wasn't fancy but it did enough to hold everything on there tight until the epoxy cured.

    The felt makes a thick layer compared to even several plies of woven kevlar and is very resin rich... not beautiful but very tough!
     

  13. DogCavalry
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    DogCavalry Senior Member

    Hmm. Well tough is what we are after.
     
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