1. DogCavalry
    Joined: Sep 2019
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    Location: Vancouver bc

    DogCavalry Senior Member

    Sounds like PAR was really an asset to the forum.
     
  2. bajansailor
    Joined: Oct 2007
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    Location: Barbados

    bajansailor Marine Surveyor

    He certainly was - a veritable walking encyclopaedia of everything to do with small boat design and construction, and he had an excellent way of describing things and getting the point across.

    Edit - Thankfully Paul's Blog still lives on.
    PARyachts https://paryachts.blogspot.com/
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2020
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  3. DogCavalry
    Joined: Sep 2019
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    Location: Vancouver bc

    DogCavalry Senior Member

    I've read quite a few more of his posts now. Definitely a huge loss.
     
  4. Ad Hoc
    Joined: Oct 2008
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    Location: Japan

    Ad Hoc Naval Architect

    Dam right he was.... told it straight too. No sugar coating the reply as many seems to want.
     
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  5. fallguy
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    Location: usa

    fallguy Senior Member

    I have beaching keels on the Skoota. The Skoota is designed for a primary mission of the Inside Passage, so that might lend itself to a rockier beach if I find one.

    The beaching keels themselves are made of all glass, but they have a sacrificial timber on the bottom that I must admit has been a major pita to build and attach.

    I made them from a 4x0.300" lamination of ash lumber with glass on each side. The beaching keel itself is about 4"x4" and fits on the hull bottom. The timbers are about 3" wide by 1.5" high. Fairly likely that would be the container strike or close for any slightly submerged stuff. I digress. I am also worried about turbulence for fish finding and other things.

    For the Seasled, you really need a flatish spot on the keels if you are going to make a sacrificial component.

    Personally, I would probably have stripped deeper in the keels and made a flat section say 3" wide. Then you can use 5200 to attach a sacrificial timber. No metal fastenings for me. I suppose you could still adjust it..

    Part of the reason I had trouble is I only let the devil spit cure for 3 days and my timber fell off. 5200 needs like 2-4 weeks for such a monster as these. Same for you, so you would flip and then need to get the sacrificials on.

    Anyhow, I'd glass over a flat section or else I'd put a few extra tapes down of a preferred fabric at the end.

    The front of the Skoota is still a bit unprotected and I am still debating about using keel protection of some kind. I really want to take pictures of the boat beached on launch day.

    Avoid uhdpexyz. Nothing sticks to it.

    Anyhow, if you decide to tape a fabric down; do tell because I may need a piece of it for'd if I find the beaching keel hitting the beach late.
     
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  6. fallguy
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    Location: usa

    fallguy Senior Member

    Picture is sideways. This was before the timber fell off. I will put it back on when the weather warms up enough here with 5200. The timber is dark and the keel itself is white with primer. I had hopes to primer to sacrificial timber, but when I removed the supports the nite before; it fell off !$&!&&?'!

    AB9361F2-1942-4ADF-833E-8427BEFBE989.jpeg
     
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  7. fallguy
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    Location: usa

    fallguy Senior Member

    It is anecdotal, but I buried one layer of aramid (kevlar) in the beaching keel. If we ever get stuck on coral; it is supposed to save the boat from getting reefholed. Otherwise; it is really not there.
     
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  8. DogCavalry
    Joined: Sep 2019
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    Location: Vancouver bc

    DogCavalry Senior Member

    I think I'll plane it down to a flat, at the point of contact, and glass across that. Then bolt a wearing surface on. UHDP has the benefit, and challenge that nothing, as you say, sticks to it. It should slither across rocks. And if it's not perfectly fair, that might not be too big an issue. Look where this sled is riding. 2-miss-lakeside-lake-tahoe-steven-lapkin.jpg
     
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  9. fallguy
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    Location: usa

    fallguy Senior Member

    I like the boat, but what is with the ?bulwark? at the top of the tunnel? Is it needed,
     
  10. DogCavalry
    Joined: Sep 2019
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    Location: Vancouver bc

    DogCavalry Senior Member

    That is called the "sneeze guard"

    I've been told by users that a sled is almost indifferent to sharp chop, and steep wakes. Just breaks them up and rides over them. Anecdotally runs a little faster on rough water. But occasionally a wave will close the tunnel, trapping too much air. Then it blows out forward, like whale, sneezing...
     
  11. DogCavalry
    Joined: Sep 2019
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    Location: Vancouver bc

    DogCavalry Senior Member

    Interesting design detail there: looking at the sneezeguard, I thought, a wave hits that its smashed. Then I realized, a wave will never touch that at speed. So I cut off my hull at that point. Created the ram from that vertical surface.
     
  12. BlueBell
    Joined: May 2017
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    Location: Victoria BC Canada

    BlueBell . . . _ _ _ . . . _ _ _

    I would radius this point not flatten it.
    Feather layers of glass over it: 3", 5", 7", 9" in order to transfer impact load and avoid puncture.
    These strips (or tapes as they've become known) would feather forward and aft as well.

    So, is the sneeze guard gone or will it extend down from the ram?
     
  13. DogCavalry
    Joined: Sep 2019
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    Location: Vancouver bc

    DogCavalry Senior Member

    I might not be running fast enough to have that be an issue. But if it is, I'll retrofit one.
     
  14. BlueBell
    Joined: May 2017
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    Location: Victoria BC Canada

    BlueBell . . . _ _ _ . . . _ _ _

    Not sure it's entirely a matter of speed but, time will tell.
    Good plan.
     
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  15. fallguy
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    Location: usa

    fallguy Senior Member

    ram, sneeze guard

    all Greek to me

    basically, the boat is like a catamaran, what is the tunnel clearance?

    and what is the ram? the sneeze guard I get, except I find it to be a bit ugly
     
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