Hull Offsets for SS United States

Cleaned up to see bow bulb detail

 

Here are the latest offset changes I have tried. Most of the changes are in the bow bulb area but there are some changes to the bottom center also. These offsets are included in the Michlet "in" file. I am looking for feedback here and hope TANSLE sees this.

 

The lines at the bulb area currently seem more appropriate.
There remains, however, the question of what is the horizontal keel width and deadrise value (see figure). I do not think you have enough data to decide what is right.
Great work Johnhazel

 

I know this is an old post but thanks for the hard work you did the table of offsets will be handy for doing a solidworks model for a large radio control version. I was wondering are the dimensions in the TOO metric by chance?

Joe

 

Table of Offsets in post #51 is in metric units (mm).

 

ok i might have missed 51 i got the ones from like 33 is there a difference between the two sets?

I am working on some offsets for a Balao class sub in excel but man the offset tables are almost impossible to read so im abt to give up on them lol.

 

I do not remember at this point why two different files were generated but, in any case, both are in mm.
If you believe that I can help you with something, you have nothing more to say.

 

Thanks Tansl I am just playing around getting used to using tables of offsets for my solidworks program and setting them up in excel creating the tables solidworks can use. unfortunatly solidworks only allows a table import of 1 station at a time. I did a fletcher class destroyer hull from the bath shipyard drawings but what I am really wanting to do is a Balao class submarine in 1/32 scale radio control. I have some 70 sheets of shipyard drawings and abt half the frames in excel but from frame 1-70 it is almost intelligable. so im just finding offsets here and there practicing my conversions and table making skills.

took me abt a year to do the fletcher but i had errors to correct in the offsets plus was my first vessel so I was learning from one the guys on this forum how to read and adjust offsets.

Joe

 

Can you work with AutoCAD ?. I have developed software that facilitates a lot fairing of shapes and allows to save in, or read from, Excel files to draw curves in AutoCAD.
If you have the information, I can work with AutoCAD and pass it to you an iges or dxf file that you can open with Solidworks.

 

i havent used autocad in a billion years. i am really proficient in solidworks though. I tried delftship and it didnt help me much. im finding trying to do subs is a challenge as you dont get to see the pressure hull lines as they are hidden by the side blisters and the walkways, that is why i was happy to find these offsets. then when i went through them and saw how bad they were to read i just got well lets just say i wasnt a happy camper as this has been a project i have been wanting to do for about 10 yrs now with no success.

i am uploading my info to my server in case anyone else is interested in it. but it comes to abt a gig with all the microfilm stuff. ill edit and link it here when it is finished.

 

if anyone is interested here is my files for the Balao Sub. like I said I was able to get the rear half of the TOO entered into the excel file I need to try and figure out 1-70 somehow http://www.proflooney.net/Balo-Class-Sub.rar

 

Thank you for the all work you did on this 3D model and thank you very much for sharing it! I had been looking around for a 3D model of the SS United States hull for some time with which to build an R/C model and this is the first I found. It looks very nice. I downloaded it and was able to import it into Solidworks where I was able to convert it to an STL. I scaled it to 1824mm long (about 1:165) as that it about the longest I will be able to fit in my car (station wagon). I was able to slice the hull into lengths that I was then able to 3D print. I have yet to glue everything together but here are some photos of the finished product so far. The bow it a bit sharp but I think can use some Bondo to round it off properly. I will then use it make a form for a one-piece fiberglass hull. The bow section is 324mm long and the stern section is 300mm long, all other sections are 150mm long. 10% infill, so altogether it weighs about 5.7kg. Each section took about 2 days to print, I used a TRONXY X5S (we have 3 at my place of employment). Math tells me she should weigh in somewhere around 10kg once she's all done. Still a long long way to go!

 

Finally got around to gluing the hull sections together using Permabond 735 Toughened Adhesive.
Now I have to start filling and sanding. Still trying to decide if I should make a mold or try the vacuum bag method.

 

Congratulations. There is a lot of work to do but it looks very good. Have fun making your model.