Sea Sled madness. It’s in my brain.

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by DogCavalry, Nov 11, 2019.

  1. DogCavalry
    Joined: Sep 2019
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    Location: Vancouver bc

    DogCavalry Senior Member

    I bought a finger jointer bit for my router, and build a simple jig on the wall to hold planks. Screwed a block of wood to the bottom of one of my skill saws so I can rip ⅝ strips from whatever 2* stock I find, after I finger joint the ends. So I can make a couple planks a minute now. I found that using a backing block I can glue the jointed ends and screw the plank to the bulkheads without waiting for the glue to dry. Except at the bow. Curvature is extreme at the bow. No joints forward of station 3.
     
  2. bajansailor
    Joined: Oct 2007
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    bajansailor Marine Surveyor

    Sounds like you will be going full steam ahead (again) now - excellent!
    Do you have any more photos to show us please?
     
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  3. Barry
    Joined: Mar 2002
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    Barry Senior Member

    Re the twin engine at wide centers,
    You can check out Aspen Catamarans, there was a 2 issue story about the owner of Aspen, Larry Graf perhaps? that took one of their boats down the McKenzie River, 1700 kms, in
    Pacific Yachting, the engines are 200 hp stbd and about 70 port. Originally the cat came with a single engine and the hulls were asymmetrical. The addition of course gives them a get
    home engine
     
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  4. DogCavalry
    Joined: Sep 2019
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    Location: Vancouver bc

    DogCavalry Senior Member

    200 and 70? That is remarkable! Okay. Maximum spread it is. :)
     
  5. BlueBell
    Joined: May 2017
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    Location: Victoria BC Canada

    BlueBell . . . _ _ _ . . . _ _ _

    Cool.
    So, how'd the finger jointer work out?
     
  6. DogCavalry
    Joined: Sep 2019
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    DogCavalry Senior Member

    It's pretty good actually. More than adequate for planks aft of 7'. There's very little shape once you leave the bows. Fingerjoints keep everything aligned, and the 60oz of glass and epoxy between the inside and outside will tie it all together adequately.
     
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  7. DogCavalry
    Joined: Sep 2019
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    DogCavalry Senior Member

    IMG-20200130-WA0000.jpg
    So I've learned a few things with the first few planks. With all sections being strictly straight lines, plank alignment is easy enough. But I designed too much twist in the forward sections of the non-tripping chine. Fortunately I can still cut down B1 and B2 easily enough to ease the twist a little. And B4 is 3mm low. Also an easy fix at this stage. I'm 29 years out of practice. But it's coming back.
     
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  8. BlueBell
    Joined: May 2017
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    Location: Victoria BC Canada

    BlueBell . . . _ _ _ . . . _ _ _

    Can you make the strips narrower in that area to accommodate the twist?
    It'd be a shame to change the lines of the hull.

    Was B4 the station in question, pages back, for being out of alignment?
     
  9. DogCavalry
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    DogCavalry Senior Member

    Yes, in my shuffle, I placed it slightly off.
     
  10. DogCavalry
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    DogCavalry Senior Member

    20200131_202635.jpg
    It's getting a lot easier. After the first few, they were stiff enough, collectively, to really provide support for ones that came next.
     
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  11. DogCavalry
    Joined: Sep 2019
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    DogCavalry Senior Member

    20200205_220514.jpg 20200205_220500.jpg
    Moving forward again.
     
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  12. DogCavalry
    Joined: Sep 2019
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    DogCavalry Senior Member

    I've tried some planks at the outside edge of the tunnel. The curvature and twist there are too extreme. Planks kept breaking. I'll keep going as far as I can. By then I'll have figured out a workaround. Or more likely, someone on here with experience of the same issue will tell me how to proceed. :)
     
  13. bajansailor
    Joined: Oct 2007
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    bajansailor Marine Surveyor

    How wide and thick are the planks that you are using? They do not look very wide at all in the photos above. Would it be possible to make them even more narrow?
    Re your curvature and twist being so extreme, did it 'look ok' when you lofted the lines out on the wall? Ie everything was nicely fair there?
     
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  14. BlueBell
    Joined: May 2017
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    BlueBell . . . _ _ _ . . . _ _ _

    If I may answer in John's absence, he's ripping 5/8" strips off 2 x 4's, 6's, 10's, 12's... whatever he gets from work.
    So, 5/8" x 1 1/2"
     

  15. BlueBell
    Joined: May 2017
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    BlueBell . . . _ _ _ . . . _ _ _

    I had suggested the same thing, narrow them down.
    But then realized, this wouldn't really make them that much easier to twist.
    I suggested thinning them by half and doubling up with staggered seams.
    He's got 30 degrees twist between B2 and B3... or is it B1 and B2...
    You can see it in post #33, the first pic.
    John: clarification please.
     
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