restoring old mahogany small boat

slow progress...i had to break apart every piece, repaired, glued again. all oak ribs were eeplaced. kept only the mahogany.

 

Sure looking good.

Are you worried about it losing shape?

Is the sole level with dwl?

Sorry I somehow missed alerts for this thread, but yj gave excellent, better advice.

Keep at it; it will be beautiful.

 

Looks great. What are you using to bond the stringers into the frames? Finally, turn it upside down and then make sure the bottom is flat for the last 3 feet or so in both directions. If you don't you'll have to fair it later and that's a lot more work than if you do it now.

 

i've checked and the bottom is flat and the boat is straight and it kept it's original form because i've replaced part by part. the boat was never put apart.. it took a lot of time but it was made piece by piece..
i bond the stringes with monocomponent polyurethane glue

 

any advices will be welcomed

 

Great work!

 

A good polyurethane glue like Tightbond will certainly do just fine. That will also work for applying most of the decking. In the rear, where the decking strips are used to reinforce the transom I'd use 6 mm strips. and cover them with 60z cloth that is treated to wet out clear and bond them in with epoxy. Stiffening the transom is important and you want and need strength back there. Your boat has a lot of deck framing. In particular the decking has a lot more stringers than any normal race boat but that is what you need to support the strips. The problem with solid strips is that they aren't strong in bending between the stringers if the grain is in the long direction. If you want to use solid strips like you showed in your earlier post I would use what ever was on there originally. A 3mm plywood on the deck would be plenty. You could thin the mahogany strips and use a layer of 6 oz glass on the inside and 4 oz on the outside and that would be really durable. If you did that you could thin the strips down to 3 mm.

For the bottom a 5 or 6 mm ply is what was most likely what it was built with in the first place. A good marine plywood like Sapele meranti is fine. Okoume is lighter but not as strong. If you use Okoume you could use a 6 0z clear glass cloth on the bottom with epoxy and that would provide that extra bit of waterproofing and some more strength. Here's a pic of my rig. The decks are Okoume that has been stained with a fade resistant dye (metal based dye) that is made by Lockwood. If you google Lockwood metal complex dyes you will be able to pick one that you want, or you can buy several powders and mix up your own color to match the decking, which is what I did, to match the lighter Okoume to the color of the original Sapele . Also for a deck epoxy I'd use a 4 oz cloth and a 3 mm skin. If you waterproof with epoxy you need enough thickness. If you use cloth with that same thickness you'll be using 4 oz cloth, so the weight of waterproofing is the same as using 4 oz cloth. The big advantage of the cloth is that it really stops checking from sun damage that can happen as the boat ages. 4 oz "deck cloth" will wet out to be invisible if you use a cloth that is treated to wet out clear.

 

It looks very old, does it still work?

 

Oh yea, it runs very well, this is an APBA "D" stock runabout. It's not that old.. The boat was built in 1979, the motor is the same year, but these motors were in production into the 1990's... And these motors are still raced today in APBA racing. Part are readily available and can be purchased from the factory or from typical marine supply houses... Top speed of these boats is around 80 mph at the end of the straights on a one mile oval.. Class record for the flying kilo is 90 mph... If you google "APBA D Stock runabout" you'll see these boats in action on youtube...

 

Slow progres due to covid... But i am on The right way

 

Put The plywood and now The glassing is next. I will use epoxy. But my epoxy has a 30 minute Time curling will it be enogh to wet The glass?? If I do one part at a time it will be ok?? How should I do.. Or If I Will spread it on the glass the cure time will increase!?? Pls I need some advice

 

Too fast!

You need to buy slow hardener. You will be very sorry attempting layout with fast epoxy unless you are semi pro.

 

Hello every one. I've stopped the building proces for a year and now l am back on track. I've glassed the boat with 2 layers of 6oz on the bottom. It is very sturdy and looks Ok but now after a year i am thinking to put an 20 hp 4 stroke yamaha on The boat. Will this structure be enough for this motor? The boat îs 13.7 ft long x 4.26 width. Al the small stringes are 1 x1 inch and the bigger ones are 2x1.inches White oak.

 

These are some picture of the structure. The las three are with The boat befor starting the restoration. I need any advice on The structure and. If it's stong enough for a 20 hp engine.

 

I am thinking on putting some 2 inch thick closed cell foam on The entire bottom and another layer o 6 mm okoume above.. To make a closed cell foam Sandwich, în order to get some. Boyance and strengthen the entirw hull what are your opinii s.