Unusually built?

I think this is how they created the "radius" . It is pretty close to the line drawing.
BR made some modifications to the plans in 92 apparently, but not sure how much.

 

One thing to really look closely at is the adequate support of keel and very particularly the skeg supporting the rudder- this area has come under some scrutiny in the past and with deeper research good reason. You may note the more recent evolutions have some pretty ugly compensations drawn.. I personally feel that a neater job uses internal floors and matched framing into the appendage. Some have also applied chamfer plates to the interface of skeg and shell plating.
Jeff.
No need to worry about "copyright" on this series... All but a few belong to one of my workmates Voyager http://www.bruceroberts.com/public/HTML/V495-2.htm

 

Funny you mention that.. I was looking the keel over carefully yesterday and noticed its held on by a simple fillet weld, albeit a very long fillet... There is nothing inside the hull supporting it and only a baffle every 36 inches inside the keel, with the lead having air gaps between plating.... Im working on solutions for this as well.

 

That 'radius' looks more like a 'fillet' of 6" to 9" radius.
Looking at the photo, the trailing edge of the keel appears quite bluff, not faired in with a nice trailing edge. Keels need support and should be tied into floors, which you don't have.

Yes.... this is a very unusually 'built' boat: actually, a long way from being built.

 

And commercial scantlings have 25% corrosion allowance. Over 100' is where global strength becomes an issue, smaller steel craft are usually massively overbuilt and very forgiving of poor construction.

Agree, gussets to link the framing elements would be a good idea, presumably the plans will have that detail.

SalmonEyese
Are there full ring frames in way of the mast ?

 

Not sure what the question is. But now I want to know the answer too.

 

Any chance you can link something showing that so I can see a correct version?

 

this is a sample (low resolution but should give you an idea) 'midship section' of a 44' steel ketch built in 1984 and completed a world circumnavigation.
The 'transverse frame' (ring frame), continuous from - floor/ keel diaphragm to frame.....bottom frame/bilge/side/deck/etc and can be spaced from 24" to 36", depending on the design, standards used (Lloyd's, ABS, DNV, etc.) & application.
Your 'drawings' may (should) show similar or the equivalent.

 

Umm,,, ours is not like that... I do not have the full plans yet, and from conversations with BR, they will be similar to yours. Its hard to read (even with my goggles) but the framing members are made from 10 gauge? Ours or 2 inch T stock 1/4 inch thick. I had to cut a couple out to get the water tanks out and those things are incredibly heavy.
Ill be curious to see what BR recommends, but Im sure it will involve cutting out what I have and replacing it. Ive looked at what is involved to do that and it would not be that difficult... Just time consuming. Ive realized that it will be difficult to sand blast the back sides of the T to prep them for paint anyway.

Just found this... I see how its done, and will be looking at our for a comparison...

 

Photo is a good example
To keep the hull supported & retain 'shape' you may need to replace the frames individually... not all at once. Or, put plenty of support on the exterior.
For longitudinals, flat bar is the easiest to prep for paint, L the most difficult...... T bar halfway in between. Most builders I work with have used pre-primed steel.