Mirror 16 foot Sailing Dinghy

Hi, I recently acquired a M16 and she requires a new mast. Any suggestions as to the type of mast and where I could locate one woukd be appreciated. Thanks, Anthony (SA)

 

I have made additional progress on the Mirror 16 project.

I would like the Mirror 16 class to continue and have been gathering original documents and insight that will lead to the creation of modern flat panel templates.

I have created a preliminary CAD/CAM model of the Mirror 16 hull in DELFTship and all the supporting details can be found at this link

http://www.ancestrypaths.com/wp-con...il-boat-Shape-of-Hull-2018.05.20-draft-v2.pdf

Additional Mirror 16 information can be found at my website:

http://www.ancestrypaths.com/misc/mirror-sixteen/

Hope you find this helpful.

Don

 

Hi, If anyone sees or knows of a Mirror 16 for sale in or around Melbourne Australia, please let me know. I've a standard Mirror but looking for a Mirror 16 to sail. For any leads or suggestions, please email me. cheers
Jack
jackroberthutchings@gmail.com

 

Hi U all,
I'm from Germany - I can get M16 #69 stored in a dry place for 20 years now, so in a fairly good condition.
Should I do - ?
Normaly problems come up with the centreboard box - how is this on that boat???

 

My memory tells me that the Mirror 16 is double bottomed and this means that much of the centreboard case is out of sight.Modern technology can be very useful for this kind of thing and taping a cheap usb webcam to a thin wooden batten will allow you to take a look inside the double bottom to see what may be there.If the boat has been well built and is till dry in the area,you may find nothing of concern.If it is bad you might have to take up the double bottom and fix any problems,but this isn't too hard for anybody with a bit of woodworking experience.After all the boats were intended for amateur building from kits.

 

Sorry to revive this thread. It appears that we have been left hanging a few times now on getting actual plans posted for the Mirror 16.

Rod (ozducati) posted some points in post #216 measured from the keel, chines, and gunwales. Graham (spenceroz) then took it a step further and used those points to create an unrolled dxf from a Rhino model. I think spenceroz was on the right track. I have downloaded the 90-day trial of Rhino and done the same thing. I took it a step further and corrected the lines in Rhino to account for the keel damage that Ozducati did not compensate for in his measurements. Don (sailohio) also posted some points that he had gathered a few years ago. I added those points to the rhino model and smoothed the splines between the two sets of points. One thing that was a bit unclear on the points is where the gunwale points were measured from (outside edge of the rubbing rail, top (or bottom) joint of gunwale and side panel. It was also a bit tricky to compensate for the thickness of the keel (as it is partially recessed into the panels).

From the corrected splines it was possible to create hull, rib, floor, keel, seat panel, seat rib, and overall boat profiles in the rhino model. Inherent in these profiles is the assumption that the hull panel profiles are inside face (so the boat will be about 1/2" wider and 1/4" deeper than the section and rib profiles). It should still be within class tolerances, though.

After creating the Rhino model, I exported it as a dwg and opened it in another CAD program to make some adjustments and modifications to the flat panels (and add other items scaled from the assembly manual). The Rhino model and modified dwg/dxfs have been attached to this post. Hopefully someone else will find them useful. I'm hoping to scratch-build a Mirror 16 this winter. There are still some areas where I have questions (mainly sizes of different strips of wood used) but I think these models will at least provide some information for the complicated shapes of the different panels. The plans could definitely be improved to include drawings for all of the different parts (including quantities). I'm hoping I get around to creating a more complete set of plans by the time I start building. If the history of this thread is any indication, that may not happen. So, I'm posting what I have now.

Edit: Don's (sailohio) parts lists are very helpful and provide good information for sourcing hardware and knowing how large most of the strips and blocks are.

 

I've been working through exactly how I plan to build this and trying to make the plans more useful (i.e. more pictures and information). At this point I only have two major questions that I would need help from a Mirror 16 owner to answer.

1. Foredeck curve radius - by comparing the splines I have and the class measurements, I'm getting that the foredeck beams have a 9' to 12' radius. The 9' radius for the beams and bulkhead seems to work the best, but it still isn't a perfect fit. If anyone who has a mirror would be willing to measure the curve of the foredeck in a few different places and post them here, I would appreciate that. The curve can be measured by placing a straight edge across the deck and measuring the gaps between the straight edge and the foredeck at the rubbing bead joint (on both sides) and then measuring the distance joint to joint with a tape around the curve of the deck. Alternatively, a crude gage could be put together and measurements taken between the middle of the gage and the deck. (see attached screenshot)

2. How is the gunwale and rubbing bead (and the inwale/inwale thickener) supposed to be shaped? (Rounded off triangle shape, single curve, double curve, square)

 

I've had some time to think through the build process and refine the patterns/plans for this boat. While the overall shape of the boat still matches (and should pass) class specifications, I have taken the liberty to adjust the pattern a bit to align with some of my preferences and provide a more robust design. I will likely start another thread to discuss my alterations and possible updates to the design of the boat in order to make it more sturdy and watertight. Attached to this post is a complete set of my current plans and a zip file containing the same drawings in dwg and dxf format and the Rhino model that everything was generated from. I hope to start building this boat sometime in the next few months. Also, if anyone has more specific information on the symmetrical spinnaker pattern, mast/boom configuration, or any of the rigging, I would really appreciate any information anyone is willing to share. Thanks.

 

I've decided to work on set of Original drawings for the M16. My first draft was posted on a different thread. This draft is more complete, though it is still missing geometry for the centerboard (and a handful of other things). The patterns in this set should allow someone to make a boat that is as close to the original M16 as possible. It should easily fit within the class rules. Most of the parts also match dimensions listed in the original packing list. The parts are also labeled and numbered to match the original instructions and packing list.

The hull shape in the plans I posted above are good but not as accurate as these plans are. I was also running into difficulties trying to get the hull accurate and still make a bunch of changes to the design at the same time. I will likely still make several changes to this design when I get to building it, but at least now I have an accurate starting point.