Love-hate relationship with teak decks

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by sdowney717, Oct 1, 2017.

  1. sdowney717
    Joined: Nov 2010
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    Location: Newport News VA

    sdowney717 Senior Member

    Got the plywood glued and screwed down. Is a perfect fit. Just shows one piece, the other is also in.
    And I overcoated with FG strips and glue.
    Entire structure is strong. does not have any give.

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    Here is more detail of the post attachment. I added a steel bracket versus 2 screws that went through the cockpit teak and framing into the side of the post. This allows easier post pulling, no longer have to unscrew a large piece of teak board. So a 2" by 3/8 SS bolt keeps the post from pulling up.
    metal bracket bolts to frame with two 5/16 ss bolts. The galvanized bracket is from an old garage door when they made the steel thick unlike today. And I primed and painted it also.

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  2. sdowney717
    Joined: Nov 2010
    Posts: 1,175
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    Location: Newport News VA

    sdowney717 Senior Member

    I have the top almost finished.
    Needs paint, and I need to make new posts.
    The new wood feels really strong. I like it.
    I laid some fiberglass wallboard tape in the PL on top the rear plywood. Makes a nice waterproof layer.
    And it sealed it well including the plywood seam edge.
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    Transom needs refinishing, of course, never lasts.
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  3. Lepke
    Joined: Sep 2015
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    Location: Oregon to Alaska

    Lepke Junior Member

    I had a yard and specialized in wood repair and new builds. Mostly commercial. I would put down a decent layer of fiberglass before the teak. Probably roll it up the cabin side and under the top rub rail. Also when I drive screws in wood for decks or hardware, I squirt some epoxy down the screw hole with a syringe. Epoxy holds better in wood than the screw alone and it stops water from seeping down the threads. It could last the life of the boat.
     
  4. sdowney717
    Joined: Nov 2010
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    Location: Newport News VA

    sdowney717 Senior Member

    Regarding screw sealing, have had good results with something very simple, put some DAP Dynaflex 230 acylic caulk in the holes and on the screws.
    DYNAFLEX 230 Premium Indoor/Outdoor Sealant - DAP http://www.dap.com/dap-products-ph/dynaflex-230-premium-indooroutdoor-sealant/

    I was more concerned about rotting screw holes in the original deck plywood since it was not a treated wood. I have not had any treated wood rot in this boat, and I used a lot in various repairs, including framing under the floors. I am pretty selective about choosing what to use.

    I bought 350 or so #10 SS sheet metal screws 1.25" long to hold down the teak. Getting the teak back on right now is low priority. I like teak, but I also hate teak. It can be a lot of trouble.
     
  5. sdowney717
    Joined: Nov 2010
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    Location: Newport News VA

    sdowney717 Senior Member

    I have the 2 posts cut, shaped drilled, and ready for a finish.
    One is white oak, the other may be ash.
    They came from Lowes and were wood used for skids on some wood product they sell, so they were free.

    Cut on the saw and sanded are in great shape. Very similar color wood.
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  6. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Oak and ash can look similar. Wet it down with water and the one that smells terrible is oak.
     

  7. sdowney717
    Joined: Nov 2010
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    Location: Newport News VA

    sdowney717 Senior Member

    I have the post in. The mahogany ply is not secured with screws yet, but it is in place.
    And couple teak boards are on.
    Posts and ply are coated with Petit SeaGold varnish.

    I also varnished with polyurethane the backside of the teak boards to seal them.
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