Coronado15 Rebuild

Cool. I figured that you parted it out. I have questions about how these hulls were assembled and your picture are useful. Maybe you could start a new thread and post your pictures? Maybe call it "Parting out a C-15."

 

I think this has really limited interest.
Let me know what you would like to see.

 

Well I'm interested so at least one guy. Do you have a picture that shows how the cockpit sole (the plywood core) is tied into the sides?

 

The cockpit sole is not tied into the sides of the hull at all. It is just bonded to the floor and stopped.
You can see here where the plywood on the floor stops at the deck/ footwell side. There is the "stiffener" which is vertical from the side of the footwell to the bottom of the hull, but it is not bonded to the bottom of the hull.


Even at the aft end of the deck/ footwell, there is no connection to the side of the hull.
This is looking up at the deck. The white strip is the side of the hull (cut off at about 2" below the gunwale).
You can see the "vertical stiffener" attached to the side of the footwell - nothing came across to the side of the boat.
The round hole is the socket for the mainsheet traveler ( the 1" SS metal tube). You can see the plywood reinforcement that runs over the top of the hole.
Fwd is to the left of the picture, where my shadow is.

 

The joint I'm trying to describe is the "T" just to the right of the crowbar in your first picture. Do you have a close up image of that joint?

 

Not the best, but this shows the joint at the rear end of the centerboard slot and the deck.
The metal block is the backing for the main sheet pedestal.
I never did cut thru the actual slot area.
Second picture is from behind, the cut is about 4" behind the slot, so doesn't really show the joint.

 

I was into this area of the boat and replaced all this stuff with new glass and epoxy. This structure is to the left of the crowbar. Any shots of the joint to the right of the bar?

This is a good shot of the block of metal that the centerboard bracket screws thread into. Mine resemble bronze and they are very heavy. If I had it to do again, I'd consider removing them and building this area back up with solid epoxy and maybe G10. It would be stronger and lighter.


I can see damage to your foam hull-stringer. This is fixable. Like I said before "if I could do it again," I'd remove this section of the foam stringer (very easy to do.) It could be rebuild just as shown below, with epoxy and glass (but without the old stringer.) Lots of new glass and epoxy.



I reinforced these structures as far aft as I could reach. Every corner has lots of new epoxy and glass to create a solid box like structure.

 

The last piece of Douglas fir marine 1/2" I bought was the worst "quality" plywood I ever bought.
Get some Okume.

 

Who's using Douglas fir? The Okume looks nice but as long as the glue is waterproof and the wood is rot resistant, I might use ugly fir in places that could not be seen.

 

I used 1/2" doug fir for my bulkheads, laminated some for the compression post etc... and now I'm using the last of it for the structural support under the floor I replaced at the rear of the foot-well.

I used 1/4" birch for the stringers/vertical stiffener and sub floor, and a new hatch cover. I just coated the heck out of it all with Epoxy.

Mark, when you first posted those pic's I thought you had committed to separate the deck from the hull.

I can safely say, that trying to add support under this floor is a real hassle while reaching through the thin space between the cockpit sole and the hull. I can only get my arm in from the sides and then can't reach very far back, and I have long skinny arms. There probably won't be many pic's of this for two reasons...Firstly, I'm not touching my phone when I'm all epoxy'd up... and two.. it's ugly and not something I'm particularly proud of. I just hope it comes out solid.

 

Good luck.

I wanted to rip off the deck.
After cutting up this junk boat, I've decided taking off the deck on my "good" boat would be a fool's task.
The deck to hull joint doesn't seem like the 5200 often quoted, since it seems like "concrete" to quote Canracer.
I don't see any way to separate the joint, although there is an old report of that being done.

 

I agree getting it apart would be a challenge, not destroying the boat in the process even more so.

 

I'm a little confused. Do you have another C15 upchurchmr? Best I can figure is, you have a "keeper C15" and the one you cut up was for parts?

 

Yes.
I only bought the one I cut up because I discovered the original boat had a significant cut in the side of the mast at the spreader base.
The one I cut up had a good mast.

Marc

 

To separate the entire "deck" would involve removing the compression post bulkhead, and breaking free the post, cutting the cockpit sole around the centerboard trunk, and then driving a wedge between the hull-deck joint. Maybe the transom would separate without trouble, or maybe the transom would have to be cut away.

Of course all that stuff can be fixed, and it's an interesting starting point for a rebuild. The more times someone attempts these repairs and then passes along the info, the easier it all becomes for the next guy.

The forward deck of my boat separated from the hull during a sail. I removed the deck because I didn't want to work through the small hatch. There's a popular project that involves transferring the fore-stay tension from the deck to the hull (perfect for preventing the deck from peeling off the hull.)


I wasn't sure how to make repairs and I had about one weekend a month to work, so decisions were made and the project moved forward. Here, the fiberglass hull flange was sanded clean to accept 5200 for the deck reinstall.


This was over 10 years ago and I had no understanding about the necessary repairs that were just around the corner. If I had known,,, I'd have taken advantage of this open hull to complete more projects.


A bulkhead was installed under the new athwartship deck seam. This epoxy work looks messy but it's the side of the bulkhead that required working through the hatch (access limited.) The other side looks great. The bulkhead was vastly overbuilt and I'm in the process of cutting it down (not a priority.)


The boat's back together now, parked in the garage ready to go. It's been out in every wind and wave condition, and the hull is very solid.


Much of this boat was rebuilt and I've learned a hundred different things (at least.) Many thanks go out to 5monkeys for taking on the transom repair, and sharing his progress here.