CNC Plans not Included

You dont show any structure against the outer topside hull panels? If you dont have some structure there like cupboards or benches etc you will have to run stringers down there as the spans are too much without stiffeners. Also need to design your bridgedeck floor, and the roof as these also need extensive stiffening- big spans.

 

Just checked my waterline and it's back to 5 foot!!! Must have happened when I added volume to the ends. That all needs to be shrunk back down to 4.5 foot. I do plan on having some shallow shelves but will go ahead and add ribs too as that fits in with a finishing idea I have

Looks like my hull ratio will be about 1 : 13.33. I was hoping for 1:14 but I don't even know the significance of that number or what the difference in performance will be but for now I will add the ribs and leave it at that ... Should get me pretty close to the right weight.

The BD is easy enough, had that drawn before.

Yeah the roof. That is a major component that I have to give more thought to. The roof supports I think I have figured out and those are more substantial than the actual roof as they will support the unstayed mast.

Okay so a bit more work to go before I create my spread sheet.

 

Interested to get a look at the skeleton of the mast support ribs under the roof. The roof is a simple plate but the ribs are key to lowering restraint forces.

 

Yep, was working on that today. Also put the stiffeners for the deck. My top deck is now 6 inches higher so I could enclose the steering boxes and lower the height of my sofa seats and galley counters. Now they are perfect but it also meant raising the roof so I redrew it so curves down on the ends more. Not going to even try to calculate the weight on the main supports that are attached to the roof framing. Those will have to be pretty heavy duty.

The stiffeners will be infused at same time I infuse hulls and lower bridgedeck so not too much extra work there.

The roof frame is CNC cut from flat carbon panels, the square carbon cross tubes will just slide in and a flange piece will slide over the tube on either side, all pieces glued together, it's pretty easy assembly. The skins are flat not compound on the top, and I will bold a mold for the edge and corner skins.

 

Also I am sinking the mast into a mini nacelle since I have to frame out for the dagger pivot block. I will infuse it all in one shot with the bridgedeck. Gives me a bit more bury as I want to go taller.

Here is a view of the raised deck, the sofas are now at 24", I can see me on that sofa with auto pilot doing it's thing lol!

I will do the hull ribs now and that should get me pretty close to the estimated weight of the structure.

 

Remind me to have roll down bug netting as well

 

I have been working on my own version of a racer style to see if I could make it work but I can't see anyway to make a large solar roof look good. These boats, in my opinion, are okay to live on for maximum up to one month. In which case I would put one owners cabin and the other hull, the galley and guest bunks. This is a 60 footer with 4 foot wide hulls.

Skip, here is a twist on rear beam and entry. You can keep your coach roof lower if you walk into the hull through the transom steps. In this pic, I let the beam traverse fully so it's really strong and it protects from a rogue wave from behind flooding the entry... even though their would be scuppers, doesn't hurt to have it. I wouldn't even put steps to get across the beam, just sit and swing your legs over. This has less steps, just in the galley so you can make use of the shelf for counter space and fridge etc...

 

PS much easier to build because it's way less cutup. Also if you minimize living space you can have whatever foils you want and let them block the space forward. You can always have a hatch forward of them for crew bunks. Didn't post to your thread as you are set on the 50.

 

Would certainly be fast as hell... looks good too.

Its all about compromises at the end of the day, theres no free lunch in any of it. But good advice from Richard woods was to only build the minimum boat you need. Having a 60fter with such minimal accomodation is going to be a great performance machine - but its going to be more expensive than a 50fter that has enough space to get the job done. Theres more than just the length of hull to consider - the big rig on a big powerful boat gets real expensive real quick too.

I figured i can get the accommodation im looking for in 50ft thats why its the length it is - if i could afford more id build more, but im stretching my budget as it is to get 50ft over the line.

Also a boat without much shade and accommodation is going to be hard to find decent resale value - it ends up in a real small niche thats already full of cheap ex racing yachts which can be refitted with more luxury items for cruising if the owner wants it. Heres an example of 1 such beast which used to hold the round the world record and i saw it in the flesh when it was in port here-absolute weapon;




SWIFT Boat for sale http://www.bernard-gallay.com/yacht-for-sale/SWIFT-254

 

Yeah all true, especially the shade.

SWIFT is impressive but at 3 million and for what she is, I think that is going to be a tough sale.

 

Im pretty sure this boat sold for 1.5M a few years back. New owner obviously not really wanting to sell - its been for sale ever since he bought it.
Theres plenty more tho - over the last few months ive seen everything from MOD70`s to ORMA60s to 100ft maxi monos all going for well under 1M, some of them well under 1/2M.

Ive been looking at modifying something like this for cruising but none of them are really suitable as there simply isnt the volume in the hulls for adequate accommodation space below. The whole idea behind the flared hull shape including the raised coach house of the sig45 is it allows the floor level to be raised well up in the hull and you end up with over 4 ft width at floor level - this translates into over 8 feet width at bench height. This is what provides the volume in the hull to make it feel spacious enough to not need fully enclosed bridgedeck saloon.

To modify a race boat - perhaps cut the deck off and build a raised coach house on it and refit the interior. At least you get most of the structure, all pre built in carbon fiber with an expensive rig and sails already in the purchase price

 

what's with the boom?

 

Monster Boom lol!! I read that over 78 foot vessels require crew by some regulation.

1.5 Million seems much more realistic but it's a heck of a boat so just have to find the right guy.

I was so peeved that my waterline was back to 5 foot that I spent almost the whole day redrawing it. Put it back to 4' and it flairs to a total of 5'-8. My beam had grown as well so I dropped that back to 28 foot. Then I decided I didn't need such a tall and wide windbreak (angled part of deck to cockpit) so I dropped and narrowed that a lot. I was a bit worried on the last drawing that I only had about 20 inches to walk around roof, now it's more like 40". Looks a lot less bulky, I am pleased.

As for the mast, I am going with what RDenney mentioned. If I build a stub mast I won't need to brace the true mast off the roof. The stub mast will be sandwiched between bulkheads, dropped into a mini nacelle and taped in solid. I think it's much better idea than forcing me to build a heavier duty roof than I need, not to mention the darn roof supports. Now I am going to work on the roof a bit, make it smaller. I think I am overdoing the number of solar panels, going to try and drop that down to a number around 35-40 from 50.

 

Sorry, should have been more explicit. Looks as if the boom is not mounted on the mast.

 

I thought that was some special racing setup, does look like it's hanging though.
With mini nacelle -