Pedal Powered Boats

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by Guest625101138, Jul 14, 2008.

  1. portacruise
    Joined: Jun 2009
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    Location: USA

    portacruise Senior Member

    Electricians flex bit extension or sewer rods have been used, UK may have it at Wards sewer supplies on the web. Thickness and length depend on power you expect to use. My previous e-boat link used 40 inches of 3/16 inch for occasional 200 watt spurts. Thicker rod would handle even greater power continuously, but would have to be longer to bend to the horizontal under power.

    PC
     
  2. HJS
    Joined: Nov 2008
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    Location: 59 45 51 N 019 02 15 E

    HJS Member

    Back to basic….

    Here comes another way for "pedal" power.

    At first glance, it looks to be very convenient and effective.
    Is there anyone here who has more technical data on what is most convenient, and how effective this option can be? Could it be developed further?

    Note that the oars settles automatically horizontally to reduce air resistance.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uyMMgOTc4wQ
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvU2f-t612o

    KISS, Keep It Simple Stupid, Dick Newick

    JS
     

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    Sockmonkey and philSweet like this.
  3. portacruise
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    portacruise Senior Member

  4. Jaro
    Joined: Jun 2014
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    Jaro Junior Member

    Guys, if the shaft of my drive goes on the left side of the kayak , what direction must the propeller turn?
     
  5. portacruise
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    portacruise Senior Member

    If the prop pushes from the left, it would turn the kayak to the right. The prop itself has a "paddlewheel" effect which pulls it sideways, so you want the prop spin to counteract the force to the right. I can't tell you which direction of rotation because it depends on whether you are facing the prop from behind the boat or sitting in the boat facing the prop at the end of the shaft when you say left or right.

    PM
     
  6. Heimfried
    Joined: Apr 2015
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    Heimfried Senior Member

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Propeller_walk

    "A right-handed propeller (which rotates clockwise [as viewed from the stern] when in forward gear) will tend to push the stern of the boat to starboard, thereby pushing the bow to port and turning the boat counter-clockwise unless the rotation is corrected for.. When in reverse gear, the effect will be much greater and opposite. A right-handed propeller run in reverse will push the aft of the boat to port."
     
  7. Jaro
    Joined: Jun 2014
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    Jaro Junior Member

    facing the prop from behind the boat - that is what I meant. Imagine that I m standing behind the boat anf facing the stern.
     
  8. Heimfried
    Joined: Apr 2015
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    Heimfried Senior Member

    In this case the "left side", where you located shaft and prop, is port side. If the prop is moving the boat forward, it tends, as portacruise said, to turn the boat with the stem towards starboard.

    A (forward) clockwise rotating prop will counteract a bit and trying to turn the boat with the stem towards port side.

    But you can not expect the boat is going straight forward. The prop walk is higher in shallow waters or when the prop is located near water suface.
     
  9. portacruise
    Joined: Jun 2009
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    portacruise Senior Member

    I notice more resistance on turns with a rigid unsupported shaft compared to flex shaft. My guess is using a flex shaft that is unsupported at the prop end, minimumizes prop walk and prop gyro forces because the prop trys to constantly self align to the forces in all directions. A rigid unsupported trailing shaft working through the lever arm may add to prop walk and gyro forces?

    PC
     
  10. mikmark
    Joined: Jun 2017
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    Location: Las Vegas, Nevada

    mikmark New Member

    Hello upchurchmr,

    I realize this thread is several years old...FYI, recently tried purchasing a unit from H2proped. They couldn't produce a product for me. I don't know what's going on over there, that's what lead me over to boatdesign.net. Have to try to create my own pedal drive system.
     
  11. upchurchmr
    Joined: Feb 2011
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    upchurchmr Senior Member

    Good luck,
    The best information on this thread is in the first 10 pages - if I remember right.
     
  12. mikmark
    Joined: Jun 2017
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    Location: Las Vegas, Nevada

    mikmark New Member

    Hello ASM,

    I see this is an old post, do you know if this link is still valid or another site to access it?

    Thanks,

    Mikmark
     
  13. BlueBell
    Joined: May 2017
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    Location: Victoria BC Canada

    BlueBell . . . _ _ _ . . . _ _ _

    It's still active if you want it to be.
    What's up?
     
  14. billjoat
    Joined: Jan 2009
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    Location: new bern, nc

    billjoat Junior Member

    I've built several HPB's over the past 20 years mostly for the local rendition of a raft race. The next one will be in june of 2018; the Great Trent River Raft Race. Ordered plans for Toto from Jim Machalak with plans to stretch it @ 36". In discussion with Jim, we decided that stretching Toto would be a better design than Larsboat. Now Idealy I would use the involute gearbox that I had however I sold it to a friend in Indiana and he's reconfigured it. I have also been in contact with the build Alok Goins from involute tools in India; but having to order 50 kinda puts it outta reach. Plans are to build the stretched boa, and the add a 2-person gear set-up similar to the HF Latte waterbike team "Imperator"......HEYLIGE FRAWE LATTE ad Hammaburg http://www.iwr2016.at/Hamburg.html . I'll also be running one of the last Heron props made by George Tatum 18x30. I'll keep you posted
     

  15. billjoat
    Joined: Jan 2009
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    Location: new bern, nc

    billjoat Junior Member


    I know that in the world of HPB's that this doesn't seem like a very fast and streamlined hull. However, this race starts in a somewhat evry choppy river that has not only swamped me in the past, but many competitors that have built their craft for the smooth waters between in 2 bridges where most of the race occurs. This is why the high bow is needed and some beam for stability. I'm sure I'll need help with the drive unit. Hopefully I can make it simplier and round up an involute gearbox from somewhere??
     
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