Yanmar 2V78 Saildrive

Discussion in 'Diesel Engines' started by sgancarz, Sep 28, 2015.

  1. sgancarz
    Joined: Sep 2015
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    Location: Wisconsin

    sgancarz Junior Member

    Well it's time to resurrect my engine thread once again. I have begun the work of planning out the new wiring harness for the engine. So far I have spent many hours working in Visio to complete the circuit design. I have also sourced all of the connectors and relays to be used in the harness.

    The area that I had to put the most thought into was the alarm circuit for the over-temp, oil pressure, and the alternator. I ended up designing an alarm module that will be incorporated into the harness. This module contains three DPDT relays that will allow the audible alarm to activate along with the light on the control panel.

    The other thing that I did was to set up the oil pressure switch to not only provide an alarm, but will also shut down the fuel pump with a loss of oil pressure. This is an ABYC standard when utilizing an electric fuel pump. Most will just add a second oil pressure switch to shut down the pump, but I do not have room to add a tee where the switch screws into the block, so I reverted back to some 1970's technology.

    I remembered back when I owned my Chevy Vega, it incorporated a fuel pump shutdown circuit into the oil pressure switch. So I broke out and old wiring diagram and was able to straight-line the circuit and incorporate it into my design.

    Click the image below to open up a pdf version of the new wiring diagram.

    [​IMG]


    Also hoping to actually drop the engine into the lazzarette this weekend. Hopefully I should have some pics to post Sunday night if all goes as planned.
     
  2. sgancarz
    Joined: Sep 2015
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    Location: Wisconsin

    sgancarz Junior Member

    Alas, the engine is actually sitting high atop it's new mount. Took a couple of hours but it is finally in the boat. In order to get the engine through the lazzarette opening I had to take everything I could off of the top of the engine. Then I had to remove the oil filter, as it was hitting on the way in. Actually went down through the seat opening much easier than I anticipated. Biggest issue was getting it down under the cockpit floor. Very little clearance, but I finally got it shoehorned down in there and up on the mounts. I still need to align the shafts and tighten everything down, but that is for another day.

    Here are some pics of today's progress.

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  3. jruhnke
    Joined: Jun 2016
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    Location: Minnesota

    jruhnke Junior Member

    sgancarz

    Nice job on your wring diagram.
    Your engine installation looks good. Pretty cramped in that spot. It must have been hard to install the top part afterward. I'll be waiting to hear how the next steps go.

    I have a few questions, that I probably should have asked earlier.
    1. Did you switch or clean your old fuel tank, before switching to diesel?
    2. I noticed on the lower unit of your saildrive (prior to your engine mount installation), that you put a metal plate over the top of the unit. Was it to keep water pressure out? Or... is it decorative? Did you use the original omc gasket (or copy), or did you just gasket the outer edge? I'm trying to remember if it will keep water out, just by keeping the lower unit valve off.
    Is it steel or aluminum? It looks like aluminum.

    I think I remember you indicating you were going to bypass the original water pump.

    I know you are busy on the next part of the installation, but it would be nice to know a few more details about the lower unit and its seal.

    I do think your solution should work well, when completed.
     
  4. sgancarz
    Joined: Sep 2015
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    Location: Wisconsin

    sgancarz Junior Member

    jruhnke,

    I was actually able to assemble everything on the top prior to sliding it into place. I thought I would be able to install the shaft coupling then slide into position, but when I tried, I couldn't get it under the sole of the cockpit, so I had to remove the coupling and then re-install once on the mounts.

    I completely removed the fuel tank and cleaned it out. Also had to make some modifications to the tank to relocate the fill neck and to install the fuel return line for the excess fuel from the injector pump.

    The plate is to replace the original intermediate housing. The intermediate housing must be removed otherwise you do not have enough shaft to install any type of shaft coupling. The plate was supposed to seal the area above the water pump as that area is normally flooded with water. However when I sealed the water intake up, I probably could have got away without it. I guess now it is just insurance, should water ever leak by any of the seals. Also keeps any dirt and debris from getting in there. I made my own paper gasket, but purchased a new rubber seal for the top of the water pump housing.

    My only worry is that being I have bypassed the original water pump, the shaft seal for the pump is no longer lubricated by the water. I applied a liberal amount of grease around the seals, but I think I will also occasionally apply a few drops of oil down next to the shaft to help.

    As for just closing the valve, that is part of the intermediate housing, so it no longer exists in this installation.

    The plate is made from 1/4" aluminum plate. In addition to the hole for the shaft and the mounting screws, there is also an area that has to be milled out on the bottom of the plate to clear the shift arm. When assembling the lower unit to the iso-ring the five bolts must be tightened and the 3M 5200 allowed to cure. Then the two longest bolts are removed and reinstalled after the plate is installed. There is some extra space between the plate and the lands for these two bolts, so I made some additional washers from gasket material and placed those on the lands prior to installing the plate gasket.

    I am now starting on the wiring harness. Lots of connections to make and trying to figure out where to mount all of the external components and routing of the wiring. Also trying to determine if there are any molded hoses out there that I can use for connecting the engine coolant lines to the heat exchanger.

    Winter seems to have returned up here in Wisconsin, so too cold to actually go out and work on the boat, so doing what I can at home.
     
  5. sgancarz
    Joined: Sep 2015
    Posts: 28
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    Location: Wisconsin

    sgancarz Junior Member

    Time for another update. Work has been going slow as usual, but was able to get down to the boat this last Sunday to work on getting the shafts all aligned and get the engine locked down on the mount.

    This proved to be quite challenging, as there is not a lot of room under the engine. Luckily I had access to a small dial indicator and a spindle mount for a vertical milling machine. The spindle mount fit right on the shaft coupling hub for the lower unit. Still required outside assistance to rotate the prop so I could get her dialed in, as trying to rotate it from the top, I kept bumping the dial indicator. I was able to get the alignment to within .005", so I shouldn't have any problems there.

    Also got the raw water pump mounted and the drive belt all adjusted. Here are some pics of the shaft coupling all hooked up and the raw water pump assembly.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  6. jruhnke
    Joined: Jun 2016
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    Location: Minnesota

    jruhnke Junior Member

    Hello Sgancarz,

    I've been trying to find out about the progress of your Paceship and its new Yanmar Diesel to the OMC Saildrive Leg.

    Did you launch? Is it working? Are you still modifying parts?

    Just curious to find out your progress.
     
  7. sgancarz
    Joined: Sep 2015
    Posts: 28
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    Location: Wisconsin

    sgancarz Junior Member

    jruhnke,

    Unfortunately, I have not made anymore progress on the project. Once again life has gotten in the way and I just can't seem to find time to get back to the project. In all actuality, I have only been able to even sail the boat twice this year, and the second time was for less than an hour. Projects that are remaining are to get the wiring harness completed, weld up the exhaust header, hook up the fuel lines, finalize the throttle cable, install the raw water strainer, and install the heat exchanger. Some of these items would take minimal time, but unfortunately I can't even find that in my schedule.

    But, your interest has given me a little spark to try and get back to the project. I just need to carve a little time out of my schedule. I think I will try to get the raw water strainer mounted this weekend. Maybe even get the heat exchanger mounted. Still have to source my coolant and raw water hoses. With any luck I will be able to post an update next week.
     
  8. sgancarz
    Joined: Sep 2015
    Posts: 28
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    Location: Wisconsin

    sgancarz Junior Member

    Got the raw water strainer mounted Wednesday night after club racing. Still need to source the hoses to connect it up to the through hull and the raw water pump. I think the next project is to get the heat exchanger installed. It also will mount to the plywood surrounding the water tank.

    2017-08-11 10.40.53.jpg
     

  9. jruhnke
    Joined: Jun 2016
    Posts: 7
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    Location: Minnesota

    jruhnke Junior Member

    Decent water strainer, good access. It looks like you're doing everything right. Good luck on the Heat Exchanger.
     
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