Vintage, lapstrake, clench nailed I-14

Discussion in 'Sailboats' started by guam2250, Sep 26, 2016.

  1. gggGuest
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    gggGuest ...

    I'm not convinced the snubbing winch would have been used for the mainsheet. Most likely jib sheet only. The bottom section I would guess is simply for height.

    There would have been a purchase on the hoop on the transom to the boom end, and possibly mainsheet run forward from there on boom and then down to the block you still have, and from there to hand.

    I don't know that I can make a rational guess at your line running forward. Something spinnaker pole related might be another possibility. I don't know much about the very early rigging.

    On floorboards, here's an interesting shot lifted from the cbifda.blogspot.co.uk of a North American Lapstrake 14

    http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ntardoRxndg/U6lfXkHO20I/AAAAAAAAAY4/jzUhxUuqO_g/s1600/Mallette3.jpg
     
  2. philSweet
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    philSweet Senior Member

    Nice picture, now I have some support for what I think is going on here. The tape is the area between the slats. The holes are for the cams that hold the grate in place. Another way to do this is to place all the cleats on the same side of the ribs, slide the cleats up under little tabs, and then use one pin to secure the floorboards so they can't slide back out. Or the tabs can be on the cleats and slide into the limberholes under the ribs or slots cut into the floors. This is how I do it when I have a bit more meat to work with. That way, the tabs don't get in the way of cleaning the boat, and the tabs on the cleats help make the floorboards into a nice camp table too.
     
  3. guam2250
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    guam2250 Junior Member

    In other words, I've got it backwards. The faded spots, taped over, were exposed to sunlight, and the wider, still varnished areas were protected by floor slats? Supporting ribs could be parallel to hull ribs, and fastened to the slats. In terms of hull curvature, the 5 screw holes are kindof in the high area if a flat structure were layed in there. The dogs, strategicaly placed could pull it all down to rest on the ribs? I think we're getting somewhere. Thanks. What do you think about my equipment questions in the second batch of photos? - MGM
     
  4. gggGuest
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    gggGuest ...

    > The faded spots, taped over, were exposed to sunlight, and the wider, still varnished
    > areas were protected by floor slats?

    That would make a lot more sense. The general colouration seems to match that.

    Do you have any spars? How original are they? The original wood mast would probably have had quite a maze of piano wire rigging and spreaders/diamonds/jumpers.
     
  5. guam2250
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    guam2250 Junior Member

    I agree about the sole structure and clues left behind. This boat was stored in an airplane hanger for many years, hence it's amazing original condition. The hull is all that was available, and begs the question of what happened to rest of the boat. All the gear was probably in equally mint condition. My efforts to find out what happened came up empty handed....wah! Anyone with a bead on an original mast please let me know. Of course, without as much as an extra screw hole, I could modify my Tasar rig and go sailing! - MGM
     
  6. Steve Clark
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    Steve Clark Charged Particle

    Uffa Fox's books have spar and rig drawings if you have to build a new "period" mast.
    SHC
     
  7. cmckesson
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    cmckesson Naval Architect

    I just wanted to say: What a beautiful boat! Thanks for restoring her.
     
  8. guam2250
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    guam2250 Junior Member

    Thanks. You mean I should scrap the small block Chevy idea? - MGM
     
  9. PAR
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    The image provided above shows the hold down "dogs" I previously mentioned. Just simple toggles that pivot over the slat cleats. to keep them in the boat. There also appears to be a few screws directly into the ribs, which I think is a bad idea, but I've seen plenty done like this.
     

    Attached Files:

  10. guam2250
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    guam2250 Junior Member

    Thanks. Yes, I saw the insidious holes in the ribs too. If I hook into the small triangular spaces between the planks and the timbers, I could hold the assembly in place without any attachment to the hull structure. I plan on steaming all parts that need persuading in order to minimize any stress. Do the dogs necessarily need to swivel? Unscrewing a few screws shouldn't be a problem. Thanks - MGM
     
  11. PAR
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    No, the dogs don't need to swivel. I prefer to have a small hunk of metal, attached to the underside of the slats hook under the rib wedge, between the laps.

    A heat gun will work as well as steam to convince things to comply. There shouldn't be much bending needed on slats.
     
  12. guam2250
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    guam2250 Junior Member

    Okay. How about 1/8" bronze "hunk o metal", in recessed underside of false floor rib. Screwed in from underneath would allow dog to swivel. Heat gun(carefully) sounds good. Because WHIRLY sat on a single trailer roller(each side)for many years, there is a small area where the hull has been pushed upwards on one side. How about wet towels, get hump moist, strap around hull to back up padded board to push down on hump. Use heat on outside and inside to persuade hull back to shape???? What about "swamp cypress" instead of teak for floorboards? Would teak have been used in Canada in the '30's? Besides, huge difference in price!
     
  13. PAR
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Getting a boat back into shape is usually a very slow process. You push, jack, wedge and brace slowly (several weeks), keeping track of the movement as you go, as the places you apply pressure will change. More often than not, it's simpler to remove the offending frames and bend new ones. This is usually included with a major refastening too. Restoring a hull's shape can get complicated, tends to yank fasteners all over the structure and it's not easy to get it symmetrical again, unless you remove fasteners in the laps, so the planking can relax and get forced into the prefered locations.

    As for the dogs, I commonly use one or two fixed tab of metal, typically forward and a swiveling one aft, much like what you've described. The slats cleat is forced under the fixed dog(s) and the aft dog swiveled into place, usually with a little downward pressure on the slats to make them conform to the hull's belly.
     
  14. guam2250
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    guam2250 Junior Member

    Hello again, PAR. The dogs will be the solution for me. Thanks.
    Also on my table, is a rescued burn boat in the form of a McAlary "Arrowhead" 21' sloop. This was in the Popular Mechanics publications(late '30's, early '40's) for home builders. This boat has a rotten mast and will need a new one, and sails. The original rig is old school, with a small, barely overlapping jib, and a shorter large mainsail with a 14', loose fitted foot. The stability issue comes into question with changing to a taller mast, but most used sails are of the more modern taller rigs. How much improvement could be realized with a shorter footed main, but a longer footed jib with much more overlap? Thanks for your time. - MGM
     

  15. PAR
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    I'm familiar with the Arrowhead 21. It really boils down to who built it and how good a job they did. The style of the day was a small jib and big main. A new rig could be put on her, but some re-engineering will be necessary for partners, step and relocated chain plate reinforcements. I think this would be dubious on this boat, unless it was a remarkable (for some reason) example.
     
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