Buccaneer 24 Builders Forum

winches

Fred, a little more info. I have the winches on my 24 mounted where I can get at them while single handing, but most of the time I just use my self tacking jib with its own tackle, or a less than 110% jib that I use a two to one sheet set up (a pair of small blocks on the clew of the sail) and it usually doesn't need the winches. It really simplifies tacking, and most smaller sport boats are doing it the same way.
My 155% genoa sheets way aft to stand up blocks on short tracks just in front of the rear crossbeam so its sheets go forward to the winches.
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Should the amas be vented to prevent constant pressure going up and down? If so, how is it done?

 

vents

Yes! you do need a vent, I think about a one inch inside diameter hole/pipe about the minimum, and it needs to stay open while you are sailing. I think C&F boats vent through the crossbeams, but since that isn't an option for Buc's, I think a mini home made Dorade box should work fine.
Much larger ventilation ports fore and aft will help keep it dry from condensation and leaks, but they can be removable. Mine has screw in cowls to replace the bolt access ports near each crossbeam.
Since I installed sealed bulkheads at my crossbeams, I added 3/4" pvc "dip" tubes top to bottom through the bulkheads into the mid hull area to vent them.
Of course, they have never been tested but they "should" help if a float is holed in one chamber.
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Some update photos.

 

Wow. looks like you are moving right along with your build. Looks great.
nelson

 

Hey, looks like a boat, keep up the good work!

 

Nice

That is almost a boat! Nice work Fred
A detail I would include. At the center "V" of the crossbeams, water always collects, and has no way to escape except down into the wood. From experience, rot will start there. IMO, a drain hole/holes need to be added in both front and rear beams. I had to replace the "under" beams on my boat, and saw the same damage on several others.
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Yes, Bruce, I am planning ondrain holes. I thought the samecthing may happen even if the tubes are epoxy plugged due to movement while sailing. The rear will drain into the cockpit and the front into the centerboard up/down line tube.

 

Is there not a risk of the centre case pumping water back up the drain ? I would have thought water in there would be minimal with the timber plugs in the tubes for demounting ? Wouldn't a removable bung be enough ?

 

Re the vent tube: I think this is mentioned in the 28 plans as a 1/4" tube running up from the keel epoxied into the deck and bent over somewhere behind the crossbeams ?

 

Speaking of vents , I have 2 x 6 inch inspection ports in each hull on the deck , and in the transom up high in the corners I have put a gortex vent in each hull. They are used in sailboarder and stand up paddle boards so they don't pressurise and explode when left in a the sun. They are a one way vent which lets the pressurised air out and the gortex material will not let moisture in .

The are installed by drilling a 25 mm hole and epoxy or sikaflex in.

http://www.shapers.com.au/gore-tex-breather-values/

 

Vents

 

Ordered, and on the way to me. Thanks!

 

Should I make the front hatch open forward, back, or sideways? Which would be better?

 

depends

Fred, most boats have the hinge at the rear, both of mine do. However, there can be reasons for hinging it forward if you have enough deck space in front for it to open all the way. I prefer hatches like the Lewmars that can open 180 degrees and lay flat on deck if there is space. If not, think about your use, if you want it for ventilation, it needs to face forward but it will also suck in rain and spray, and while open, it is very prone to catching the jib sheets while tacking. Faced aft, it can be left open some of the time. Don't open it sideways, that doesn't work very well.
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