REPLACE TEAK on RUSTY STEEL DECK

Good morning!

I am really confused about the correct procedure for replacing the teak on a steel deck, in the situation where the steel underneath shows corrosion!



could someone tell me if these passages are correct and in the right order?


1) remove the teak, up to the extension of the damage

2) steel to be blast-cleaned to remove the rust / to remove mill scale if it's new steel to be welded

3) if parts of steel are to be replaced, the welds are to be leveled.

4) clean the steel from residues (oil, grease, etc..)

5) apply a first coat of primer to prevent rust (but which type? epoxy or zinc based?)

6) apply a coat of epoxy build coating (which type?)

7) level the deck with a filler (which type?)

8) apply a finishing coat (but is that necessary if the steel will be covered with teak?)

9) apply a layer of adhesive for the teak (which type? polyurethane?)

10) apply teak and seal with the caulking (Sikaflex?)


thank you in advance!

 

Remove the old teak and all harware.

Plug the hardware holes then sandblast the steel.

Prime and buildup with epoxy primer.

Once primed lay a batten over the deck to identify low spots...oil cans.

Fill oil cans, fair and epoxy prime.

The lay the deck.

Prefabed teak decks, vacume bagged into adhesive, is the best way to go.

A modern teak deck has no or very few fasteners.


Contact one of the companies who makes prefab teak deck for further info

Google it

 

Contact International or Awlgrip for paint schedule.

Be aware that International has both consumer and professional paint systems. You will be using a pro paint system.

The international tec advisor will recomend the products. Normally its three product paint system. Substrate primer, waterproof primer, finishing primer

For deck adhesive there are several choices...epoxy or polyuerathane

If using a prefab deck follow the instructions supplied. Some prefabs are adhered to thin plywood, some to a thin layer of eglass epoxy

 

Thank you very much!!

PS. what do you mean with "oil cans"? is that a slang?

 

It's simply the plate distortion of the unrestrained areas of plating. Typically stringers within the structure can help control this, also heat shrinking techniques can reduce the size but is essentially caused by the welding process.. in that as a previously "fair" area is welded out the welded perimeter shrinks leaving some "excess" material in the middle... this will either displace in or out. Careful weldout and reduction of heat applied can reduce, over welding can increase. Quite typical in small vessel decks as are often 1/8" plate which borders on sheet material. Sometimes a deck may feel springy or have some areas that "bo-ing" in/out, these are the areas that may need a shrink or application of a local internal to control. Be very careful of hot works to vessels that have lining/fitout, generally have some form of extinguisher/hose available, a squirt bottle for some gentle cooling, someone on sentry to other side and use a cool down/inspection process to end of days work, a IR thermometer is handy to check over temps at end also.

Jeff