Young head on old shoulders.....

Gidday Tactic,
Yep, S34 1969.
I hear you,along with others on the glassing is unnecessary.
Because of the age of the boat, and the fact it is longitudinal strip and not triple diag. surely it cannot do any harm if it is done correctly? Expensive confidence builder!
Some would say misplaced.
Replacing additional and compromised frames is on the agenda.

BTW, Is your boat glassed?

I have experience in laminating,surfboards and fizz boats, not real boats, so the process is not unfamilar. Just a matter of scale.

Hey, thanks for your input. Boat is at span farm. If you feel inclined & are local ,drop
by. mob 021718373 attached pic of bracing for roll over.

 

Hi Roly,
Would love to see your boat,But I am at the other end of the country.
My boat isn't glassed,and doing so help with anything in my assesment so far(built1976 and dry sailed)Plenty of boats built the way yours is have been glassed though.
I honestly don't belive you have much to gain from sheathing the hull,I don't think sheathing will bring you problems either,your structure is stable and designed not to move around.
Sheathing will cost you time and money though.
I don't like that Resorcinal glue..seen a few failures in my time.My guess is that is your biggest problem. Sort out your planking and edge joints then re evaluate the situation.
Kahikitia(spelling)aka white pine would be an alternative for the replacment planking,started to get hard to find though also.

Have fun
Tactic

 

Next stage--Scary stuff

All systems worked perfectly---Phew!
Dunno whats wrong with the image system?
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=2130491226

image 16 thru 22

login roly05 pass roly24

 

Bottom planks with edge nails devilish to remove...

Removing all vestiges of coatings turned out to be a history lesson on the boat and its adventures or (mis) in this case. Exciting though, and a firm base to make decisions and have confidence in the renovation.
Low and behold,steel screws were used to fix strip planking to the sawn keel frames.About a third showed major degradation. Edge nails were 65mm x 2.8mm galv jolt heads of which the majority were in good shape. Obvious attempts to fix the current problem had been made using splines,trunnels to laminated frames (I guess to stop relative movement), and new sistered ribs
in the weak spots. Hope my methodology fairs better.

 

Multiple issues with repairing old boats.....

Planks that I considered too wet or contaminated (old diesel leak) to dry have been removed revealing the same problem with a section of the keelson
and some of the floor frames.Just where do you stop!!!
I am seriously entertaining replanking using the old frames as formwork,sheathing the exterior,turning over, removing old frames,sheathing the interior with appropriate weight of bi-axial (or tri) and then glassing in an appropriate floor grid to replace the frames.
There is no way I want a repeat of previous repairers endeavours. Splines &
sister ribs that didn't solve the problem. Too much work done to cut corners at this stage.

 

Don't worry about repeating your current repair work. Do it like it was and 30 years later someone else can continue the life of the boat.

 

You are probably right. But I have woken up in the middle of the night with the cold sweats that my major repair didn't work!

I rather go overkill.

http://www.imagestation.com/album/index.html?id=2120245606

 

Prognosis by a very experienced and reputable boat builder/surveyor.

Scrap it and build a new hull! Repair not cost effective!

 

Bugger...

 

No fool like an old fool....

Well, I just couldn't bring myself to cut it up and burn it, and a complete change to composite would give me the guilts, so replanking and partial reframe it is. I have 700lm of old growth (8-14 rings to the inch) heart kauri planking ready for a new year start.

Wish me luck~

 

Started!
Temporary fixings to frames as we may remove the frames to glass interior.
We are removing any planks above 20%.( or contaminated)
Amazing little rot for 35yrs in the water.

 

Good show!

Good luck to you.

 

Can anyone help me with the details of frame/bulkhead layout of a similar size
boat that is strip planked and glassed inside and out with approx 30oz epoxy/triax, and heavier in keel areas? In particular keel transverse sawn frames. Post seven photo shows existing frames which I hope most can become redundant. Kinda , how long is a piece of string question!
Be nice to have a similar boats interior glass layup to refer to.
David Gerr's tables suggested 1500gm for the scantling # on 20mm plank thickness.Way conservative I feel.So I have reduced this to 810 gm(30oz) with reinforcement in the keel zone,engine bed, rudder tube etc.My core is kauri density 560kg/m3,MR 88Mpa,,ME 9.1Gpa. Perhaps 1610gm station 2 to 6 & leave
it lighter in the ends. His tables were for a single exterior skin. When glassed inside as well,no reduction is made.I guess it is assumed there will be less internal structure. He refers to the same bulkhead frame setup as a a FRP composite (foam) boat.
This I find odd, as the emphasis is on longitudinal stringers and the strip planker is already longitudinally stiff?? I may have to seek out the services of a naval architect.

 

To minimize any distortion of the hull shape we have been removing 5 planks at a time and dry fitting before glueing. Seemed the optimum way except for double the work! Nearly there!!!

 

Shutter plank in! Now to reglue any suspect old topside glue lines and prep to glass.