New Member and New Build

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by gbennett1987, Mar 3, 2016.

  1. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    The deck crown at station 1 is 3 11/16 (94 mm). You can also use the common curve technique, which means all the foredeck and side decks are simply a section of a 28' (8.53 m) circle. You just make a section of a 28' circle, slightly bigger than the boat's widest beam (say 9'). This template is placed on the sheer line (not the raised bulwark line) and the arch is drawn to this shape. This has some drawbacks, mostly the forward portions of the foredeck tend to be too flat, but it is an easy way to do things. If you go this route, then the deck crown at station 1 is 1 9/16" (39 mm), which shows the big difference this method makes to the foredeck.

    This means if you user the common curve technique, you can cut the beam from a 1x4 (20x100), but if you use the compound curve deck, it'll need to be cut from a 1x6 (20x140).

    Attached are the two versions at station one. No gusset is shown just the upper part of the side futtock and the deck beam. You can see how much more crown is in the lower version, which will need at least a 1x6.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Mar 20, 2016
  2. gbennett1987
    Joined: Mar 2016
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    Location: Grand Island NY

    gbennett1987 Junior Member

    another frame cut

    A little more progress today.

    Frame 1 has it's foredeck support added. Right now it all is just using dowels to hold it together for test fitting. As soon as I get a few more frames cut everything will come apart and be encapsulated in epoxy. Then put together for real with gussets and the other cross braces (V deck support and structural floor pieces). For frame 1 the v deck support goes at just about the height of my wife's knees.

    rame 1 with foredeck support.png

    And before running out of time for today we got the pieces for frame 2 cut.

    frame 2.png

    On to more frames so I can have several pieces ready for epoxy at once.
     
  3. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Jerry, look at your "Framing Guides" and note the locations of the deck stringers, king plank and other longitudinal elements. Cutting notches for these during the assembly stage of the frames, is a lot easier than waiting until the frames are erected on the strong back. Also consider what you will do forward of frame 1, as it can be employed as a collision bulkhead, with a considerable volume of floatation available.
     

    Attached Files:

  4. gbennett1987
    Joined: Mar 2016
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    Location: Grand Island NY

    gbennett1987 Junior Member

    Saw those. I thought I would wait until I had all the frames cut and rough fitted so I could tack the chine rail in place temporarily standing the frame upright and make sure everything is fitting good and really get a good look at the size of her. Course then again knowing myself, and bowing to your experience, it probably isn't a bad idea to notch them as I go so I don't forget any and have to cuss myself later. Just skimming the scantlings and framing guide the size of the king plank isn't specifically noted a 1 X 4 I am guessing or should it be wider?

    Forward of frame 1 I hadn't really thought of much yet. Should be easy enough after the frame and longitudinal boards are in place to add bracing or maybe even some boxes to put floatation foam in to help keep the bow up if a collision did occur. Thoughts on that are certainly welcome :)
     
  5. gbennett1987
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    Location: Grand Island NY

    gbennett1987 Junior Member

    hardwoods are hard to find

    At least in my area it seems to be getting harder all the time to get hardwood. The only oak the lumber yards here list is red oak. I know red oak can be a problem if exposed to water but if it is fully encapsulated is it still a concern? If water can't get to it with 3 coats of epoxy and the outside of the boat being sheathed in fiberglass is red oak safe to use.

    The only other hardwood that seems to be readily available is maple which if I remember right is not always hard and I don't know which variety the lumber yard carries
     
  6. LP
    Joined: Jul 2005
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    LP Flying Boatman

    Try giving Thruway Lumber and Hardwoods in Buffalo a call. They stock almost anything you would want. Most of it will be rough cut and need to be planed. I bought white oak from them a couple of years ago.
     
  7. gbennett1987
    Joined: Mar 2016
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    Location: Grand Island NY

    gbennett1987 Junior Member

    Knew I shouldn't have sold off my machines a couple of years ago :/
     
  8. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Red oak is suitable, if encapsulated. It has have the strength or the whites, but is also considerably lighter.

    If you need to mention some stock, save up what you need, and rent a planer or whatever tool you might need. You can spend half a day making dust and return the machine the next day.

    I find I use a table saw more than anything else.
     
  9. Angélique
    Joined: Feb 2009
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    Location: Belgium ⇄ The Netherlands

    Angélique aka Angel (only by name)

    Hi PAR,

    There's something wrong with the links in the signature below your posts.

    I like to look at those nice designs and to learn from the tons of info there, I hope you can restore it.

    Good Luck !
     
  10. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    I'm having some site problems and hope to fix them this week. I really need to host a site, but I just don't know enough to do it well and don't want to be held hostage by a web master. If I knew someone that could get me started, I could cut and paste my way through a new site, but I've yet to have luck in this.
     
  11. gbennett1987
    Joined: Mar 2016
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    gbennett1987 Junior Member

    PAR,

    I used to have a site on hostgator if you want to use them I would help you get a site set up. Send me a PM if you are interested
     
  12. Angélique
    Joined: Feb 2009
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    Location: Belgium ⇄ The Netherlands

    Angélique aka Angel (only by name)

    Hi PAR,

    I hope the above offer works out or someone else offers help with these website issues, like you do so many times for others when it comes to boats, thanks [​IMG]

    P.S. - Maybe it's an option to start a thread on General Computing to solve the website issues . . ? ?
     
  13. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Thanks Angel, but my site problems are like taking about you kids bad habits and not something, I'd like to have out in the open. I sort it out and get up and running again.
     
  14. gbennett1987
    Joined: Mar 2016
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    gbennett1987 Junior Member

    [​IMG]

    I remember seeing on one of the other framing guides that the gussets are attached using stainless through bolts. That's going to be a LOT of bolts to put in. Over 400 just on the frames as they are drawn.

    The scantlings indicate the chine seam gets a heavy structural fillet on the inside but the drawings show the chine logs are shoved together so it wouldn't be possible to put the fillet directly on the plywood. Does the fillet actually go on the back of the chine logs or should there be a slight gap between the logs to push the epoxy into to create the fillet directly on the seam?
     

  15. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    The plans show both a taped seam and plank over frame assembly. The chine logs can be eliminated if you employ a taped chine seam. Conversely, you can skip the internal fillet and tape routine, if you install chine logs. The exterior I recommend a taped seam, just to seal things up good.

    The gussets can be screwed, except the collision bulkhead, which should have bolts, just to be anal. Placement and number of these fasteners should follow common sense. By this I mean they should be staggered to avoid splitting frame ends and spaced far enough apart to not weaken things. The Framing Guides are an idea of where things should live, relative to each other. If things seem to contradict normal practices, then the common sense thing kicks in. In reality, the gusset screws are a bit redundant, if properly glued, but most building the plank on frame method simply feel better about metal fasteners, as well as goo, preventing your socks from getting wet.

    The attached image is the last Cooper (Cooper Jr's bigger sister) I did and though the image sucks (crappy camera thingie), you can see no fasteners in the frames. I did use decking screws to hold the gussets in place, but they where removed and filled afterward.
     

    Attached Files:

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