sculling boat

Hi All

I'm building a light sculling boat from these plans from the koti.kapsky site.

I'd like to change the stern to include a self bailing set up.

I'll be putting in a cockpit sole as well and ~300lb/133kg floats.

first picture is the stern as designed, second the cut pattern, the third is sort of how I'd like the stern to look.

Is there a better way to do this?

minno

 

Minno,

I don't really get what you are looking for, but do you need a transom to install the self draining setup?

If so , just make the boat as designed, pick out where you want the transom, put a vertical web into the stern as far forward as gets you the width you want. Epoxy it in place with a fillet, then cut off the stern up to that point.

Unfortunately, this probably puts the bottom of the transom underwater, which will make for more drag.
Your floor will add weight to the boat and sink the boat more than designed, also.

The other alternative is to twist the side panels of the boat to flare out the back of the boat and install a transom. Then you will have to adapt the deck to be wider at the back.

If this make's sense, let me know if I got any where close.

 

On the nose Upchurch I should know better than to post when I'm that tired.

I was playing with the idea of flaring the sides to make room for a transom, I'm still a bit undecided as I've no idea how much that would change the hull shape.

I'm not sure what you mean by a vertical web.

would cutting the sides back to the desired width and down to the level of the cockpit sole and leaving the bottom 5" or so of the hull full length work? I'd like to keep as much LWL as possible.

There's a measurement in the plans that I'm not quite sure of, I think it means the cut line is 1/2" from the edge of the sheet which doesn't really make sense as there doesn't seem to be any reason the cut line couldn't be right on the edge of the sheet.

minno

 

Two choices.

leave the hull shape the same as it is, but shorten up the boat at the stern. I was just saying that 6" forward of the current stern, you could put in a vertical piece to fill the gap. Than becomes the transom. Once it is bonded in place, then cut off the 6" behind that.
This makes a narrow transom and the hull shorter.

Second choice, which you already said. Don't stitch the rear vertical seam. Grab the edges at the top and push them apart. This makes a V-shaped transom, the boat is the same length, but the aft end will curl upwards (I think). Use a stick to prop the deck line apart and just look at what it did to the shape. If you like it, trace the opening on a piece of ply, cut it out, and stitch it in place.

I don't really know what your mysterious measurement is for, but if you change the dimensions of the cut panel your boat probably will not go together. Does it matter if the panel is cut out of the piece of ply just to the edge or 1/2" away? You are not going to be able to do anything with that extra 1/2" so just do it and assume the designer had a reason.

Good luck.

 

The flat panel appears to be something right off of a Freeship panel development. Looks like the guy didn't bother to rotate the piece a fraction of a degree to get the piece to touch on two corners. I might have done the same thing depending on how close I was needing to nest my pieces on to the sheet of plywood. It might be best to leave it be or you could make some kind of a paper or cardboard pattern to move it to the edge if it is important.

 

Thanks Upchurch and LP

It'd be nice to have that extra inch, I'm building the foredeck peaked instead of flat so the extra wood would be handy.

I suspect he left it that way so the measurements would be square to the panel as well as the cut line left from the side panels.

I was just unsure about where that measurement was supposed to go, I'll leave it as drawn, one less opportunity to make a mistake

minno

 

Good luck with going peaked instead of flat.
I personally wouldn't try, better to build the boat that was designed, but you might have more skill than I did.
I made a mistake in my first boat, and tried to correct it with free hand adjustments. I'm still upset with the shape I ended up with, it will not go straight.
But my wife won't let me make her another boat.

Be sure and take pictures and let us see the progress.

 

Thanks Upchurch, my wife doesn't really understand my need to build a better boat either That's why I'm using free plans.

I'll journal the build here for sure and I certainly welcome all and any constructive (or should I say "Construction") criticism.

I'm building more for safety than for aesthetics, I row/sail alone in a narrow strait with a 12 foot tidal variance, sea conditions can go from mirror smooth to 18" white caps in about 20 minutes, so while I have a wonderful little sailing dingy I just don't feel safe when the weather kicks up.

The peaked foredeck to split any waves that come over the bow is just one of several safety features I'd like to build in, it'll have a cockpit sole and coaming, large outriggers (~300 lbs displacement each), and a self bailing transom.
It'll also have about 5 times as much fibreglass tape and epoxy as the designer used.

I realize that it's more than a bit presumptuous to change a design drawn by someone who's forgotten more about sailing and boat building than I'll ever know, but I'm pretty handy and I'm building MY boat, not his, I'm sure y'all appreciate the difference

minno

 

I never built a boat I didn't change,so I understand.
15' is not so long that a sliding seat won't react to the weight shift.
Have you thought about a slidding rigger?
I put one on an 11' catamaran and the boat does not bob at all.
As far as I can tell the stroke is identical.
This one is nearly identical to mine, but more refined (better looking, higher cost, functionally the same).


http://slidingrigger.net/

You could build one for your self at a significant reduction in cost, but probably an increase in weight.

 

hmm, I could swear I posted a reply yesterday, ah well, one more post lost in electronic limbo.

I'd love to have that rigger, but $1432.34 Canadian is well beyond my budget, for the whole boat I'll have to build my own, I have a couple of ideas for a light and inexpensive sliding outrigger.

I'll be stuck with a sliding seat for a while, outriggers will be a bit complicated because I'll be swimming off the floats, that's why I'm making them so big.
so the outriggers will have to wait till I figure out just how much room I'll have for them.

For now I'll use Thole pins and doughnuts mounted on the frame holding the floats, I've been using them on my dingy for a couple weeks now and I don't miss my noisy dang oarlocks a bit, when I'm diving I can just pull the thole pins to get them out of the way.

finally got started today, cut out the panels and joined them. couldn't find my box of finishing nails to hold the lath to loft the curves, good thing too, push pins work MUCH better

I got conditional approval from the boss to use the family room to put the panels together where it's warm enough for the epoxy to set up, however, if I get even a drop of epoxy on the floor the consequences will be dire

now for the biggest part of boat building, waiting for stuff to dry

minno

 

Building Inside

Your wife is tolerant.
I built a kit stitch and glue kayak in the living room while my wife was gone.
Thought I got everything cleaned up without a disaster, but she found some sanding dust behind the curtains.

I was forgiven when she enjoyed the boat.

Sent you a PM