Buccaneer 24 Builders Forum

tilted?

Fred, that is the way I see it also. My friend's 24/26 has them installed that way. I think you have to be heavier than your cruising companion- that way, you sleep level, and they are out of luck. Of course, you may be cruising alone pretty soon.
OS, I am just saying that is what the plans show???
B

 

I would think it would be waste of time to make them totally level anyway right? i mean your not floating dead right, your on one ama or the other, so if your heavy your flat but other wont be, and visa versa so......


Barry

 

As it has been proven.

 

Mocking up the cabin.

 

looks like a buck

 

windows

Make the windows small- since the 24 is light and the cabin/deck is flexible, it is really hard to keep large openings sealed. They would probably be best with no openings, but at least think of leaving the front solid. If you find you really need light/ventilation, hatches or ports can always be added later.
B

 

i think thats where the curved sections could come in handy, like clevlands roof has that slow bubble shape to it.


Barry

 

curves

Bucs already have a small radius in most of the panels, but compound curves would make installing and sealing a window really difficult. I have just gone through trying to properly seal my 33's forward windows, even with new windows and a fresh sealing surface it has taken me a couple of tries to get them tight. On my friend's Buc 24/26, we are installing new ply on the cabin sides and front to reduce the size of the openings to something that can be sealed. The thin ply that Buc's cabins are made of is too flexible compared to the plastic windows, and the plastic's expansion rate overwhelms the gasket material. Most of the older Bucs I have seen had leaky cabins and the windows were the main problem. (not just Bucs, and not just wooden boats either)
B

 

yeah curves screw that stuff up, and i was thinking roof more than anything. But I suppose a bit of creative lamination could get some flat spots for windows either by being thick and machining in, or lamination on top to a flat crown to mount window? I suppose the easy move would be to make a log cabin type mount flange. Something like a large overlap U channel with soft rubber swapped for tree sap though! haha

Barry

 

cabin size

Fred, great progress. Did you settle in on a cabin size? My Buc has the mkII cabin, and it does not leave much room in the cockpit for more than a couple full size adults, even then the stern feels like it drags. If your intended use leans towards day sails with friends, and occansional over nights, you might consider shortening up the cabin and extend the cockpit forward. My 2-cents....

 

Yes, the cabin sides are based on the Mark II but 6 incches shorter and moved forward 6 inches, so the cockpit is a foot longer. The admiral says she wants more room to lounge in the cockpit. The width is Mark I less 6 inches for a total width of 6'8". Should be enough for a crossways bunk since lengthwise is out of the question now, unless one wants to lay over a 4.5" pipe.
I'm a little confused as to the placement of the jib track. OS once said that with the Mark I width the track is in a more favorable position low on the side, versus the Mark II placement on the roof. Why is it better to be low on the side? Also, if it's on the side and the winch is behind the cabin on the cockpit seatback, then how does the port jib sheet not rub on the cabin side when using the winch on it? I know this stuff is in the future for me still, but I like to get my head wrapped around the idea.
Also, since I moved the cabin forward 6", are the front inner shrouds going to be in an unfavorable position?

 

I posted a short how to acrylic window system install back in 2012 in the composite boatbuilding section caled

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/fi...ilding/plastic-window-installation-41276.html

still going strong, no leaks.

 

jib tracks

Fred, I have experimented with many different jibs and sheeting angles on my 24. If you have built fairly modern foils, a modern well cut jib should be set up with "about" an 8 degree sheeting angle, and barber hauled outboard in heavy air and/or waves, like almost all current production sport boats. The Buc can be a very high pointing boat, or ease off a little and hit max VMG. Mount your tracks as close as you can to optimum angles, you can work with your sail maker to decide where your jibs need track. After lots of trial and error- (and lots of holes), I ended up with a five foot track that would be on top of your cabin for the smaller jibs and a 18 inch piece aft for the 155%. If I had the jibs made to order, I could do it with less track. The old style track mounted on the edge of the cabin is wrong, and is very prone to starting leaks in the cabin. Beware!
B

 

interesting stuff Cav. I liked the idea where the guy did a small pre run around inner edge, I'm guessing that'd give tad bit protection if water made it past packed in layer and then gaps between sections of tape.

Barry

 

I am planning on building a backing piece so the window will fit flush on outside. This should help stiffen the panel also.