Buccaneer 24 Builders Forum

And on box as so says just cut out parts of box, but before assembly, pre glass all parts that will be inside then assemble those parts with epoxy and nails or staples. Good trick to do super smooth pre preg panels is to buy a nice 4x8 of say 5/8 mdf, set up up somewhere once and flat, then give it 2 coats or "part-all". This board allows you to glass parts or even lay glass on it for super smooth clean up free parts. My work bench is part all'd weekly, and I glue and glass right on it care free. Even when I need sheets of glass or carbon I just pour epoxy right on table and squeegee glass carbon and Kevlar right into it, when dry I pop off part or glass and have one side glass smooth ready for paint or polish.

http://www.tapplastics.com/product/fiberglass/mold_releases/partall_paste_2/70

Tap on south van ness will have it, and many other things!! Not the cheapest but maybe one of the best epoxies I've ever worked with as well

 

I know overkill of info on my part as usual but! If I'm understanding you right on box installation paddy. Couldn't one use tape or a waxed board to press a flange into pre glassed "inside facing" parts, at for example 1 1/2" from bottom allowing a ledge, for use of a smooth taping around and onto keel? Maybe eliminate a ledge or inside sanding that way.

Barry

 

So Barry you are saying drill through the hull to release the bolts and insert new ones? Then plug it? Os7 yeah I could see that the bolts are very important from the damage from the grounding.

Os7 thanks for the info on the case build and finishing the hull. I may have to build a small section of the board just so I can accurately finish the slot before I launch.
Barry I liked your idea about the modern slot filler, I don't quite understand your post about the mdf table. im probly going with west systems because it's easy and that's what I know.

 

As for rebuilding the rudder and dagger, I expected them to be laminates, but it's obvious that the old boards are both simply single pieces of wood. Neither having much of a correct foil shape. The dagger blew up into three pieces on contact, and I'm wondering, is that on purpose?

Should I build the board better with laminates and some fiberglass reinforce strips like I saw Bruce did early in the thread? I'm concerned that if it is stronger it will rip out the db case next time instead of exploding.

If made from a single piece, what should I use?

Also I really appreciate your guys continuing help with this! This is a real trial by fire for me and it's so great to have your input. One of the yard guys was trying to tell me in no uncertain terms the boat was dangerous, too light, got those "long spindly hulls held togeather by wires" he didn't want anything to do with it. I kind of thought we had moved past multihull discrimination these days!

 

Yeah that was my suggestion, drill through and then plug when your done, no different then a screw hole on a plank job. And as for mdf I'll try better. mdf is like super smooth particle board, it's layered paper instead of chips, when waxed it's like a mirrored board that nothing sticks to. Part all is like car wax, you put it on and buff till smooth, but it's easily done with a cheese cloth or terry towel. If you buy 4x8 and set it on saw horses flat and level, after waxed it gets a 4x8 glassine table that nothing sticks too. After each lay up you can run a razor blade across it, re-wax, and bam fresh and new again. A virgin board and 2-3 good layers of wax can be done in 45 min and your ready to go.

Barry

 

ok barry gottcha, thanks for the clarification. So its just a clean work surface that I can glass the parts for the case on?

 

Yep, just nice to have a spot to work where nothing sticks.


Barry

 

Digitization

For those interested we have today started the digitization process of the Buccaneer 24 original plans.
This is quite a process as we work through checking each scan prints to the scale box we have added to each one so when they are emailed all you have to do is print out and measure the scale box, if the box is the correct size both ways then the plans print as per the originals.

We are doing this to work in with the final stage of the upgrade plans, these plans are being done in Rhino so will be a full set of plans in their own entity.

Once the Buccaneer inspired 8.5mtr plans are complete we will work on getting the Buccaneer 28' plans completed and digitized and then the Buccaneer 33 after that.

As you might appreciate this is a bit of an undertaking so some patience will be required as we are only working on the 28' restoration and digitization as staff have time and when the 33' plans come through we will be doing the same.

Apologies for the time this is taking, we have a mountain of work going on.

More information will be over at the facebook page.

Brooke and team Ezifold

 

Omg! I can only imagine the frustration doing that task!


Barry

 

It turns out to remove and replace the bolts going through the keelson and the DBcase I'd have to drill through a stringer and not just the hull. That seems like a bad idea considering the bolt head is at least 1/2". So instead I cut the bolts using an angle grinder. And slipped them out.

I think I'm going to go with a female threaded standoff in the case, and two bolts come from each side of the keelson.
Something like this:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#threaded-standoffs/=x1bkms

If drilling through the stringer is not a problem, then that would probably be stronger, but this seemed like the next best solution.

I've got it all cleaned up and ready. Building the box today. If I get the pieces cut and glassed today, will I be able to assemble and install it tomorrow?

 

I think what you would want more is a blind nut like these.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#blind-nuts/=x1bq87

The stand off, without any shoulder, won't grab as well and might even pull through wood. As far as going through stringer, Os is gonna be way more familiar with what's there and thickness's. But in general as long as it didn't compromise it I wouldn't think a longer hole and just a longer plug after would effect much. With skin of 1/4 range I'd have considered another 1/4 disk glued on inside for a good 1/2 of adhesion anyway. But the blind nuts should be available local and would fit the bill fine. Another option instead of stand off is a coupling nut which is threaded different on each end. In that case you would come at each side with its own bolt, but I don't know if you have room to slide in the long enough lengths.

Barry

 

Barry
MDF is crap for what you are explaining. Melamine is the better product to use mdf or chip board based, it already has finished surfaces holds form better and does not absorb wax etc so you are ahead from the get go.
Regards
Craig

 

Cleveland
Sorry to take so long to chip in here been busy.
If you want to send me a photo journal to Brooke at admin@ezifoldyachts.com of where you are at, I will have one of the guys write you up a professional repair instruction sheet step by step for your repair/rebuild.
OS7 has given you excellent advise I suggest you follow it, don't get bogged down with everything else, a repair insitu or rebuild is really XYZ the Buc is basic beauty at best.
Regards
Brooke and team Ezifold

 

Yeah melamine is terrific but it's double the cost, and some big box stores only sell it in the 12inch strips with shelf peg holes in it. But if you go to,cabinet shop it's there in 4x8, and as you say, it's ready to wear off the shelf.



Barry

 

Appreciate what you are saying Barry, we make the stuff here in NZ by the Ship load and export World wide and can buy 3.6 and 4.2 x 1.8 panels dirt cheap so I hear what you are saying, it is still crap and 3 coats of Part all would be an absolute minimum but horses for courses.
All the best
Craig and team Ezifold