Neglected Kells 23 sailboat... advice sought

Discussion in 'Boatbuilding' started by retrosub, Jun 10, 2014.

  1. retrosub
    Joined: Aug 2006
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    retrosub Junior Member

    Started the stringers and egg crate structure. It's a lot of guess and check to get the pieces to fit the curves. I'm using scrap ply to mock it up and then I cut the finished pieces from marine ply. The 2x4s are not staying in, they are just holding the stringers in the correct place so I can measure and mark the longitudinals.

    I originally had the stringers 24" apart, but then I found a 30 gallon aluminum fuel tank on Craig's list for $75, and it measures 24.75", so the stringers got a little wider. The tank is a bit larger than I need, but it was a good price. I'll make a small platform under the tank so it sits level, do I need any kind of padding (rubber, foam) on the outsides of the tank? Or can the tank butt up to a bulkhead without padding?
     

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  2. SamSam
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    SamSam Senior Member

    Scribing works (don't change the orientation of the compass while doing it)

    [​IMG]


    as do joggle sticks...

    [​IMG]

    You can use cardboard like from refrigerator boxes. It is easy and fast to cut with knives and scissors. Using an over size piece, get the cardboard pattern to fit the curved shapes first and finish by cutting the straight part. Say like with stringers, get the bottom to fit the hull and then cut the top to where the stringer is the correct height.

    You can staple, tape or glue pieces together...

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Yobarnacle
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    Yobarnacle Senior Member holding true course

    I have been cutting up fiberglass boats in a boneyard for 3 months each fall the past two years. I'm rebuilding/customizing two 40 year old fiberglass boats with the salvaged fiberglass. The original wooden interiors rotted out.

    For fast fiberglass cutting, I use a 4inch grinder with a thin cutoff abrasive disk intended for cutting metal.
    I tried various saws power and hand. Fiberglass dulls them very fast. The cutoff disks are cheap and cut VERY fast. Be sure to protect yourself from the copious dust produced.
     
  4. retrosub
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    retrosub Junior Member

    I used the scribing method, but joggles sticks certainly are interesting. I made some progress, the cleats are in except for right down the middle where I'm considering a large fish box.
     

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  5. SamSam
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    SamSam Senior Member

    Don't forget limber holes.
     
  6. retrosub
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    retrosub Junior Member

    Actually no limber holes below the sole, as the spaces on either side of the stringers will be foam filled.

    I cut the cockpit sole and it's got some larger gaps than I'd like, but it'll do. Still thinking about the fish box and how big it'll be.

    Quick question: how thick should the cabin bulkhead be? I've got 1/2" and 3/8", and I guess the extra stiffness might be nice here. But 3/8" is lighter and it seems like it would work.
     

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  7. PAR
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Put in the limber holes anyway, because even with foam filled compartments, there will be condensation that will collect and drain down. You'll want this to eventually drain aft to a sump, so it can be pumped or drained overboard. I've replaced a lot of soles and stringers over the years, because they didn't have limbers or weeps and the foam adsorbed the moisture. Closed cell foam delays this, but it still will happen eventually.
     
  8. Yobarnacle
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    Yobarnacle Senior Member holding true course

    To save trouble later on, line foam filled areas with plastic sheeting before pouring foam. Later, you can lift out the foam if needed, to inspect or repair under the foam.
     
  9. retrosub
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    retrosub Junior Member

    Because of the shape of the hull, water will not drain aft, it'll drain forward. So I'll put an inspection plate in the cabin bulkhead, which will allow me to inspect and/or drain the water periodically.

    Good idea with the plastic sheeting, will do.
     
  10. SamSam
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    SamSam Senior Member

    Well, wherever it drains to, it of course needs limber holes to get there.
     
  11. PAR
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Leave a void (in the foam) in the lowest point (where the water will collect). This is whee you'll place the bilge pump.
     
  12. retrosub
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    retrosub Junior Member

    2/3 of the sole is glued down, foam filled under, with plastic sheathing, limber holes, inspection plate in bulkhead. Next I'll do bow deck and side decks.
     

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  13. retrosub
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    retrosub Junior Member

    We've had a lot of rain, so I haven't made great progress, but things are moving along.

    I made the side decks and supported them from underneath. Then I added the cabin sides, and just today the cabin top. Tomorrow I'll remove the screws and glass all the seams. It'll be neat to have a watertight roof on this thing, I can store my tools inside.

    It doesn't quite have standing headroom, it's about 5'6" at the tallest spot (standing in the depression of the keel), but averages 5'2". Good for the wife (5'), but not me. I mocked it up at 6' and it just looked ungainly and I worried about windage and weight.

    Notice I used an external butt block on the cabin roof. This was the easiest way to splice the 3/8" panels together. I'll epoxy seal the butt block and make it a feature that stands out against the rest of the cabin (which will probably be white).
     

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  14. SukiSolo
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    SukiSolo Senior Member

    With reference to the butt joint overlap ply.

    Even better is to glue a small strip of solid timber along the edge to seal the ply. Also a nice detail is to plane or spokeshave off a 45 deg angle on the cabin top edges and again glue a strip of solid along those. A good strong tape can hold in place, as clamps for those bits. Just helps make it a lot harder for water to ever penetrate into the ply edges. It may seem a small detail but it nearly always works for giving the stucture extra life.

    One benefit of the solid is that you can detail the edge with a radius or chamfer which is much kinder to the touch. It saves a very 'hard edge' when you sit or fall on it. Also the end finish will be a bit thicker and less prone to damage and thinning from ropes and stuff rubbing on it. These small details make a big difference, and reflect on quality.

    If you were to finish clear, as a varnish finish, it (small solid cappings) is much neater too. The rule of thumb is, cap as many ply edges as possible and leave the minimum ammount of end grain anywhere on the boat. That includes even with epoxy sheathing.
     

  15. retrosub
    Joined: Aug 2006
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    retrosub Junior Member

    Great idea, will do. Very hard to find teak here, what clear lumber would you use instead?

    There is some exposed ply on the edges of the side decks. What would be the best way to armor those?

    Fwiw, I have penetrating epoxy as well as the regular stuff. The penetrating epoxy is so thin (messy) and toxic smelling I get in a tyvek suit and wear a battery powered respirator.
     
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