Hartley Flareline 16 project

'tis actually a blood orange but the camera doesn't do it justice.

 

Maybe they're all Guiness drinkers...and just like to watch......

 

Basically......I'M DONE!

I finally got around to buying another sheet of ply & completed the port side cockpit panel.
Also had to make some new cleats as one of the Huon pine jobs failed. made from galvanized steel this time.


I started a thread in the power/outboard motor section as I kept getting electric shocks from the switch on the forward controls.
I rounded up another standard toggle switch & retro fitted it, complete with the original shroud.

So apart from the name & the tinted windows, I have basically finished this whole process.
When I got the boat as a near wreck in June of 2013 I set myself the goal of being finished by March of 2014, I've done exactly that on the eve of the 31/3/14.
Although I was on the water by December 2013.

As it happens I can't tint the perspex windows as I wanted too, I'm told by professionals that it's a gamble as it may not stick to perspex.

So the plan is, during winter I will remove the old windows & fit 3 new ones made from 5mm thick tinted plexiglass. I have had a quote of $300'ish from Associated plastics in Hobart & they were kind enough to send me a sample. Plus all new stainless steel bolts with countersunk heads.

The idea is simply to remove the old, send them to A,P as a template & they cut the new ones to shape & pre-drill the 135 holes needed to bolt them back in. At that point I can then apply the name to the boat.
(name will be placed on each side window so in theory they don't get damaged whilst launching & retrieving the boat).

 

Running lights refit.

Today I refitted the nav' lights & a stern light. Also fitted a new LED cabin light.
I need some new globes so then I can fit 2 cockpit lights as well. (one in each side panel). Ultimately I would like to do some night fishing in some of the local rivers.
Some of the wiring is in place (ran out of daylight), just need to finish it off & then I'll buy a 12V deep cycle battery.
3 separate toggle switches will control: Nav' lights, cabin light, cockpit lights, so they can be run independently.
The stern light also serves to illuminate the outboard motor.

 

New interior lights to go with the Nav' lights.

Blacked out the windows today. Makes a world of difference!

 

It's looking very smart, mate, it's a credit to you. Just goes to show what can be achieved on a small budget, with a bit of serious elbow grease!

Good on you!

 

I'm over the idea of hand coiling the 15 odd metres of 12mm anchor rope on to the deck, I figured this would be a better option. Also the chain (when raising anchor) drags across the rubber bump rail & causes friction marks, lots of rope & chain laying on deck blah blah blah...plenty of good reasons to build this unit.

Some 4" PVC pipe to feed the anchor onto the deck, a roller, some 7 or 10 ply (glassed) as a base & bolted to the deck, a trailer winch with, shorten the chain a bit &, I'm guessing, some 7 or 8mm Dyneema rope, should be sufficient in strength for the purpose of an anchor line & allow me to fit enough on the winch.

The idea is that the 5mm Dyneema rope I bought for the steering cable replacement has a max weight load of 1.9 ton, so even some of the 5mm stuff would hold the boat at anchor but I'd prefer a little thicker though....it just messes with my mind a bit if you know what I mean.

 

The real trick with the anchor rode is getting it to lay flat along the bottom so the anchor works at maximum, so 5m of chain probably isn't enough, which is why yachties use 'all chain', so using lightweight Dyneema isn't going to help much to keep the anchor in.

Maybe you could use a kellet (weight that slides down the anchor rode) to assist?

Also make sure the drum of the windlass is big enough, and finally, but perhaps most importantly, if the rode is only relying on the windlass to hold the boat, then really you're relying on the pawl on the winch, which is a notoriously weak spot, especially on cheap windlasses like the ones used to haul boats onto trailers.

I'd be keeping the bitter end firmly lashed to the horn cleat on the deck, and only using the windlass for retrieving the anchor. So you'd have to haul a few feet by hand in order to have something to 'wind on' to the windlass, unless you used a 'messenger' tied to the windlass and then attached to the rode so it could pull the rode up and onto the windlass drum.

This is how old sailing ships hauled their anchor rodes, using a smaller diameter 'messenger' attached to the rode and wound around the capstan.

 

Based on the areas I go fishing, I rarely anchor in more than 5 metres of water. So in theory I could use just 2 metres of chain & let out 15 metres of line.
Besides I usually head out & just drift, 9 times out of 10 anyhow.

At the moment the anchor only has about 3 metres of chain anyhow & this hasn't presented any dramas so far with sufficient line out.
In theory I could fit 2 metres of chain on the anchor shaft with the new set up. Based on the distance from anchor to winch & maybe a few coils of chain onto the winch itself.

I definitely agree with placing a few hitches around the horn bollard though, just to take the pressure off the winch when anchored.

I can modify the anchor too by welding extra steel onto the shaft, helping to feed it on to the deck at the correct angle & adding weight too.

Cheers Buzzman

 

That might be good, as it's the weight that helpos keep it down, which is why the bigger the boat the bigger the anchore specified.

Rule of thumb my sailor mates use is go one size bigger...at least!

So adding a bit of weigh to your might be an excellent notion.

 

I enjoyed your Thread and appreciate the photos, I love restorations like these where hard work and ingenuity pay off. So as I understand it you are not going with the tinted windows?You painted them, so you can no longer see through them, correct?

 

Correct, they're blacked out.
The reality is that I don't spend any time in the cab, unless eating lunch at anchor. The perspex as it was when I got the boat was scratched & rather ugly plus the seal between window & timber was discoloured. Besides, the steering & motor controls are mounted on the right hand rear of the cab, so it's not like I can sit inside when I'm under way.

I had a choice between removing some 135 bolts & replacing the windows with $330+ worth of new plexiglass or simply painting them. I chose the latter of course.

It' serves a couple of purposes. Firstly it keeps the sun of anyone who sits in the cab. Secondly for security purposes it removes the ability for anyone to see what is stored in the cab & lastly, it just looks damn cool!!!

As of today I got around to putting my photoshop idea in to reality.

Before anyone says it, yes the edges of the windows are visible & therefore they're "outlined". I toyed with the idea of fitting some plywood to raise the outer sections of the cab so it's flush with the windows but this would obviously add more materials to an already heavy boat & require a lot more work.
At any rate, when the boat is viewed from a distance the outline of the windows isn't visible & it gives the boat a very nice "sports, wrapped" appearance.

 

I like it, makes sense in that hot sun. All that glass creates a trombe wall and adds a lot of unnecessary heat. Looks like enough room in there to stretch out, I like your boat.

 

Thanks for the positive comments.
The cab happens to be just big enough, to the point where my son & I have actually slept in it for a couple of nights.
Not the most comfortable room in the world but after half a bottle of rum, I'll sleep anywhere!!!
You'll notice too with the photo below, I don't need to drown the trailer to retrieve the boat. Since I modified the rear roller I reverse in just far enough & keep that roller above the water. keeps the keel centred then.

I struggle to clean fish whilst on my knees hunched over the side of the boat. I much prefer to clean them whilst out on the water, less stinky stuff for the bin at home then right.
To solve this problem I used an old PVC chopping board, some alloy flat bar & couple small lengths of alloy channel. This way I can stand, although bent over a little, & all fish muck goes overboard!

The only issue is when I want to tilt the motor up for travelling purposes, I just need to put it in the cockpit.

 

Nice job Dirk, the paint job around the windows really hides the boxiness of them well and cleans up the look a lot. Should be an easy to see boat too.