Buccaneer 24 Builders Forum

B24 Cabin Space etc

Having caught up a little with the recent chat, I think that I may be able to contribute something useful to the conversations with Dunlin about cabin space, and between AF and bruceb concerning B24 centreboards versus daggerboards.

My B24 #216 was built more than ten years ago with a centreboard. I enclose some images for your interest.

Observations (cabin):
• ‘Buccaneer Rio’ is a B24 MKII without sidedecks. She has a cabin with ample ‘camping’ space and two good berths. The floor space is divided by the low centreboard casing but could accommodate two small children, as could the cockpit (or even the foc’sl if it was not used for sails etc). Even divided, a portable chemical toilet fits in! She was a ‘no-frills’ construction. Amateur boatbuilding is a big struggle in Brazil.
• A daggerboard casing would obviously leave clearer floor space. It could also serve for mounting each side cooking and other facilities like an ice-box, but blocking any foc’sl access.
• I plan to introduce a canvas-based berth that can be stretched from the cabin side over the starboard fixed berth and part of the central space to form a modest double berth when required. This would leave the port side for storage etc.
• Access from cockpit to foredeck is in general via the ‘trampolines’ which are now of netting instead of permeable cloth (with UV rot). These nets are still stretching so will need regular re-tensioning. In future, the original 'trampoline' covers will be adapted to include the possibility of inserting the bunk cushions inboard to give seating comfort to passengers when anchored or cruising.

Observations (centreboard):
• A centreboard system is undoubtedly safer than a daggerboard one – particularly in a fast vessel. In any sort of underwater impact situation it will simply retract (if secured with light line) instead of breaking up or even breaching a daggerboard casing.
• ‘Buccaneer Rio’s’ centreboard, after all these years, is now giving problems which will be more difficult to resolve than if it were a daggerboard. Perhaps if its construction had been made with some extra-special attention it would still be trouble-free.
• It is now impossible to raise or lower the centreboard using the control lines. Its stiffness means that I need to do this manually in the water! Only a close inspection will determine whether this is because the hull slot has constricted through resin wear and the subsequent swelling of the plywood edges or whether the blade has swollen (possibly at the swivel point) through the same process.
• I can’t simply open the casing afloat since the axis and part of the casing are below the waterline. Obviously – the longer I leave it before tackling this problem, the worse it will get!

Perhaps I could simply temporarily close off the forward and aft cabin bulkheads, relocate the bilgepump inlets and close limber holes which would allow me internal access afloat by removing the casing cap to examine things, even if it meant flooding the central hull and splashing around with tools. Maybe by thus removing and adapting the centreboard itself I can fix this. If a simple repair was necessary to the hull slot edges this could even be made with the centreboard already removed and the boat briefly on the beach.

Anyway – this gives us something to chew on!
Just writing this to you all has prompted me to think of this last 'flooding' solution. Probably someone else will offer an even better idea. PS - I'm not a Sailing Club member, yards are very expensive here and a good boat hauled up on a beach and unattended is an excellent target for theft and vandalism.

Incidentally - the original Yamaha 4hp 'shortshaft' has now been replaced with a second-hand Mercury 8hp longshaft mounted 'permanently' after modifying the engine base stbd aft of the cockpit. This has made an incredible difference to her safety under adverse conditions since the prop no longer cavitates. On the port aft side is now fitted a folding telescopic boarding ladder (which apart from being essential for my present underwater excursions to raise or lower the centreboard) also would help immensely under any MOB situation.

 

buccaneer 24 plans

Been following the thread for a while and I am interested in the plans if any are still available. If so, let me know. still need to post 5 posts.

Thanks,

Robert

 

Having sailed on a monohull for 8 years now, it's time to step it up to a multihull and have some more fun! Being an avid diy person and having a little more time now a days makes building my own a boat a nice project.

 

trailer beam

Sailornick, the beam in the pic is right at 8', quite legal anywhere I know of. If the full cabin is on the boat, the floats do best carried on their own brackets above the fenders, I have seen them both upside down and right side up. The beam should be the same. My original trailer had them.
B

 

The Bucc 24 really doesn't need any changes to the basic design.
It is an incredibly proven boat.
I am prepared to supply a dwg of the vertical daggerboard which I successfully used on my own B24.
It is very simple and enables a nice seat in the mainhull.
You could even have a LAR fixed keel, if you intend to sail in deep waters. I did in the first iteration of my B24. It was great, but easily damaged.
If you want to have a fold out double in the main hull, as in the B28, it would be possible, but would have to be well thought out as it would involve the companionway.
Samnz sorted that out by having one huge bunk athwartships across the main cabin.

 

I was looking at Marples SC24 plans, but Ive been looking at these now as well.

I like the larger space in the cabin, and think it might make it a biut more suitable for what Im after. I like that John's boat ca use my existing H18 rig though.

Anyone have an opinion on which is easier construction?

 

Quote. "Anyone have an opinion on which is easier construction?" Quote.

The Buccaneer 24 construction is exceptionally easy and combined with fast curing epoxy and power stapling, is very quick. 500 well planned man hours will do the trick.
It is not conjecture, it has been proven.

 

How much (if any) of my H18 rig would be useable ?

 

water stays

Bruce, thanks for the reply on beam. I have a question about the water stays. Have you had any rot or leakage where they attach near the water line?

 

Could you give us the details of your H18 rig.

 

It's just the standard stuff that comes on a 1991 Hobie 18.

Rotating spar, fractional sloop, a little over 200 sq ft of sail area.

What else would you need to know?

Jib would be on the small side I assume. At least it "looks like" it would be.

It's what I'm used to and I already own one so I thought it could reduce the cost a bit and be familiar to operate.

 

AstroVannin.
If your rig is good enough for the Marples 24, then I guess it will be OK for the Buccaneer 24. But be aware that the B24 has a very strong RM.

 

I was looking back through the other 100+ pages.

The concern with the H18 mast would be the strength I assume?

Is there any "recommended reading" for someone wanting to take on a project like this?

 

Again, I suggest you ask John Marples. He is a very nice fellow and I am sure he will give you the best advice.

 

Thanks OS7, will do.