Looking for input on my cabin redesign

Hi Skua,
perhaps it is just a matter of the fact that you have used a software for house interior design, but I don't see many things in that rendering which would make me feel like I am on a boat. Starting from the floor tiles and house-style table and chairs.
Hakimklunker is right that you will need lockers. With 4 people sleeping on board you will need a certain space for their wardrobe. One useful volume could be under the main berth. The other one could be obtained by creating a space for a locker. One possible try could be the one in the enclosed picture.
Cheers

 

Again, my understanding is the windows aren't his invention, but the ones that currently exist in the boat, with the same being true of the bulkheads. He's not designing a boat, or making a new cabin. He's just remodeling the furniture inside an existing cabin. Yes, his drawings show the sides of the boat as flat planes, but this is irrelevant, as he's not touching them. Even if he does, he still has to "build to the work" not the drawing's inability to display a perfectly modeled hull form.

 

Exterior shot of boat when I got it 8 yrs ago.

 

Interior shot, not my boat, but an identical one. Mine currently has no interior, up to the head/galley, and no shots of it before. Fuel tank was under floor back by the rear bulkhead. Most of which had to be cut out to remove

 

reference

 

Now everything is clear. Nothing to do with your sketch. Thanks

 

"Cable . Plumbing , insulation and ventilation takes up interior space. Its a small boat so probably not much equipment.

The aft faceing head bulkhead mightbe a good candidate for double wall bulkhead to enabe a routing path. Surface mount light switchs, electrical boxs look terrible....better flush into a double wall.

Modern boats need sewage tanks. Under the head it logical. You might raise up th floor in the head . Shower drainage tank and blackwater tank.

At any rate you should model all systems sothat its gear will fit."

All of theses systems are in place and function, except for the waste tank which is also being replaced, but will occupy the same space under the cabin deck. There is no room to raise the head to relocate waste tank. Headroom is only 5ft 6 in to start.

In my rendering there is a cabinet on the starboard side, rear bulkhead, this is the cabinet that houses all wiring and cabling, including battery charger. This is original to the boat and won't be changed. There are some misc. wires and hoses, for bilge pumps and water service, that are run under the walking deck, these are original and will be tidied up but not relocated. A/C is the only thing not tackled yet. Boat was not equipped with it, and I'm kicking around several ideas.



The engine is under the rear deck behind the bulkhead which goes down to the keel,in it's own room.

 

I appreciate everyone's feedback. As I wish to make the best use of the space, I'm open to any suggestions.

 

One of the best things you can do is go down to the local appliance or big box store and pick up some refrigerator boxes (no kidding), Yep big boxes, so you can make life size mockups of proposed furniture, cabinets, etc. This is the best way to get a handle on scale, placement, what you need to work around, etc. I make full size mockups frequently and it's the only sure way to get spacial orientation down. So, stop laughing and try it, you'll quickly see what I'm talking about, literally. You'll find the countertop might need to be at a different height than you thought, or you can't put a cabinet door hinge on the side you thought, because something else will prevent from opening fully, etc. Trust me on this and lastly, if you're good about making these cardboard "scale ups", you can use them as templates for the real thing.

 

Even the most sophisticated shipyards use a mock up interior to prove their proposed layout

 

Hmm interesting. I've been using cardboard templates for the framing and deck. Hadn't though of making cardboard furniture.

 

You wanted to do the tables, drawers, cabinets, etc.. in solid wood?. Awesome!

 

I have never owned a cabin cruiser but I do own a yacht in which I lived for four years full time and live in most weekends. This layout would soon have me wanting to make changes. In my vessel (which is by no means perfect) I have eliminated some of the annoyances.

Because the heads and washrooms are not used as often as the galley and living space, I would put them as far forward as possible. Keep your sleeping bunks as close to the centre of balance of the vessel as possible--because you will be sleeping while at anchor mostly and bouncing up and down with a rattling rope, shackle or chain above your head will soon have you red-eyed and miserable. NEVER REMOVE STRUCTURAL FEATURES like bulkheads--you have to use them or work around them. I like my galley to be full width of the vessel, even if cooking and washing is one side of the companionway and storage and refrigeration the other. Galley should be as far aft as possible, because you anchor usually head to wind and directional ventilation scoops will extract galley fumes and send them downwind. You will not as a rule be cooking on the run unless the sea is glassy calm. Between the heads and the galley you can fit your bunkage and saloon seating and eating/games/chart table. I have in some cases used the engine box cover extended to give leg room under as such a table. Here you can use fold-up bunks which convert to the seating when not in use--or for a larger vessel are permanently installed--with seating forming an extra bunk if needed. Many vessels (mine included) have way too many windows. In the tropics light means heat--and I am replacing my huge saloon/ bunk space windows with a new integral side to the saloon. In this much stronger panel I will fit three special opening screened port lights. Ventilation is very important and large windows reduce structural integrity and admit TOO MUCH light--so they have to be blocked off in some way--they did in my boat anyway. When a huge wave crashes on to the vessel I do not want it spitting its windows. The next cross wave will then come aboard.

 

I have found three ply exterior grade 4mm plywood coated with white melamine to be a useful plywood for making patterns and molds for epoxy-glass components for my vessel. Coated with wax and release compound--it leaves a very good surface--is comparatively inexpensive--and saves time sanding and painting to get a good flat surface on which to lay the glass fibres.

 

"You wanted to do the tables, drawers, cabinets, etc.. in solid wood?. Awesome!"

Cardboard will be easier to work with, perhaps not as durable as wood though. LOL