Water in engine oil

I have a gm 3liter 4 cylinder engine on an alpha one mercruiser I/O. Water got into the oil and is all milky. Can you use deisel oil to help wash out the engine after draining? Also what is a better way and better pump to change the oil.

 

I'd be a little more concerned as to why there is water in there. There are commercial cleaners you can use... change oil and filter, dump pre-change cleaner in there, run engine and change oil again. Best take a gander at your head gaskets. Hopefully not too much water was run through the engine... not real good for the lower end bearing faces.

 

My outdrive exhaust rubber connection hose boot is pulled apart. The out drive was raised while docked. I believe from boat wakes and waves water got pushed in at the transom opening. Oil was good when I docked. Was sitting for about a week.

 

Well then... no head gasket issues... but the rest still holds true. It'll cost you a double oil change and filters but small price for peace of mind.

 

Thanks lewis. I need to continue with sucking out the watered oil. Not goodluck with the drill pump. Looking for a better way to change the oil. Any suggestions?

 

If the water got in through the exhaust, you should take the plugs out and then turn the engine. Otherwise, if it starts, the engine will hydrolock and cause major damage. If there is no water in the cylinders, then it is coming from somewhere else. Diesel fuel works well for flushing. Make sure you pour some in through the plug holes too. After you flush it, run the engine until all the moisture boils away. Don't start and stop. For getting the oil out get a better quality oil pump. It may be cheaper to pay a mechanic to do it though.

 

West Marine sells a really simple device for changing motor oil in a boat, works well for cars too. It is a chamber with a vacuum pump and a probe, you pull a vacuum on the chamber, put the probe down the dip stick tube and oven the valve. the oil comes up the tube into the chamber, which is transparent. And you can inspect the condition of the oil and the amount of water in it. they look like this, they make them in different sizes, a really simple and easy to use tool:



Normally with one oil change, presuming you can get most of it out of the oil pan, the little remaining moisture is not a problem and will evaporate out of the oil next time you start and allow the engine to warm up. If you are concerned about the amount of water trapped in there, than yes, two oil changes are in order. I have never found that is necessary for auto engines that have had water mixed in the oil.

 

If the engine is several years old and used at sea, this is what can happen:
The circulation pump leaks seawater on the timing chain cover. This is just a piece of flimsy sheet metal that rusts through in one summer season and provides an opening for the water. The running chain immediately emulsifies it with the engine oil.

I have had four such engines in my boat, they ALL suffered from the same scenario.

 

I myself would take those plugs out, then for kicks run a compression test after you blow the water out of the engine block.

 

If it has an engine oil/steering pump cooler check it for leaks. When it fails sea water enters the oil circuit usually through pin hole leaks at the tube-plate braze weld. Crank windage then emulsifies the mixture into slick brown milk.

Dino