Cab/Wheelhouse Design Advice

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by zamgod, Aug 11, 2013.

  1. bhnautika
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    bhnautika Senior Member

    If you look at the Pic I posted I put the bulwark at roughly the hight of the existing pipe railing at the cockpit.
     
  2. zamgod
    Joined: Oct 2009
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    zamgod Junior Member

    Sorry, I missed that. Eyesights not so good as it used to be :eek:
    I did wonder why you'd added one of the photos.

    So that would be about 6ins wide, or thereabouts?
     
  3. bhnautika
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    bhnautika Senior Member

    The top of the bulwarks you can put at a height that is comfortable for you and aesthetically pleasing, the width can a bit less if you raise it up off the sheer on stanchions. This will give a gap and something to tie up to.
     
  4. Yobarnacle
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    Yobarnacle Senior Member holding true course

    A gap between sheer and underside of bulwark is also a good idea because it's a freeing port.

    High sided or deep cockpits are BIG tanks a pooping wave can fill. And capsize you.
     
  5. PAR
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    [​IMG]
    Raised bulwark to hide tall deck house, let water drain off the deck and offer a handy spot to tie things to.
     
  6. jarmo.hakkinen
    Joined: Jun 2007
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    jarmo.hakkinen Junior Member

    Beautiful design you have there! Does it come in glued lapstrake option?
     
  7. PAR
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Yes . . . Contact me by email by clicking on my icon.
     
  8. SamSam
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    SamSam Senior Member

    Maybe you could extend the wheelhouse or extend the roof to make it look better.
     
  9. Yobarnacle
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    Yobarnacle Senior Member holding true course

    Agreed.
    beautiful Par. I admire double enders. They LOOK and are seaworthy.
     
  10. PAR
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    The lines on this aren't exactly correct in it's current version (intentioanlly), but you should get the idea of her shape. The correct set of lines has a higher Cp, with a slightly flatter midship section, more bearing area aft and in general the displacement is dragged into the ends a bit more. The changes would make planking here easier, as well as the hydro benefits. The hardest part is getting reasonable buttocks aft, on a short overhang double ender, so she doesn't get hard mouthed up wind, in a healthy chop. She's not bad if kept under control, but if you wait too long to reef, she'll steer badly and have difficulty tacking, which are typical traits, on short ended double enders in a blow.
     
  11. Yobarnacle
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    Yobarnacle Senior Member holding true course

    I have sewn and glassed on an extension to the stern of my Albin 25, making it a double ender. The new end is the bow off a ODAY DAYSAILER II.
    It does not fare perfectly to the wide original transom. I left a shallow step at the bottom for better motoring. And one each side, to attach twin transom hung rudders, because the original underbite spade rudder too small to sail well.

    Have you considered incorporating a small step at the stern waterline in your double ender?


    I didn't arrive at my design by calculation, but by what I had to work with, and looked best under those limitations.

    Your opinion on double ender stepped sterns appreciated.
     
  12. PAR
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Having recently make some adjustments to a race boat, with steps, I can tell you these are only good for a specific range and just make drag above or blow the range. On a racer, not much of a problem as going all out all the time is the point, so it stays within it's effective range. Flint doesn't have the performance potential to take advantage of a step. Instead of a step, I think a short, horizontal fin is a better option on a double ender that has a high enough Cp and SA/D and some speed potential. At low speeds, it's not as much a determent to flow, yet while in plane mode, a nice place to "shear" the flow, at the after end of the hull. The hard part is the size and placement of the fin. The Bartender uses this arrangement well, but she's traveling well above what a typical sailing double ender can hope for. A better choice is just a more drawn out stern shape, so the buttocks don't "tuck up" as quickly, maybe with some separation "strippers" appropriately located at an optimum heel angle. Again these would be difficult to place and justify, unless you're intent is maximum performance potential all the time. Maybe an inflatable stripper or mechanically actuated flap?
     
  13. Yobarnacle
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    Yobarnacle Senior Member holding true course

    My design incorporating "the step" is based on "fairing two different section designs is awkward. Hmmm. a step. Maybe it will be beneficial. Ok. Experiment, wot the 'ell!" :D

    Before, I was dragging a big fat wide transom. Adding the fine end even with a step at the junction shouldn't make it WORSE. And waterline IS now longer. :D

    The new stern occupies the space formerly was a "boarding platform".
    The ODAY bow is lower than my highsided Albin, so it's a pointed boarding platform with flotation incorporated. LOL
     
  14. SamSam
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    SamSam Senior Member

    To clarify, this was in regards to the OP.
     

  15. Yobarnacle
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    Yobarnacle Senior Member holding true course

    I try to stay on topic and go off on tangents. sorry.
     
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