Seaswirl Tempo 17 sole, mounts, stringers?

Ive never been to NZ. Hope you guys have a good time!

Back home for a day before heading out again for a few days. I didn't sleep last night, so I decided to mark my keyhole. NOT gonna drill anything until I get some sleep though Anyhow, I ran into a little problem and am looking for some help. When I took out my OMC stuff, I took what I thought was enough measurements to make sure the new engine / drive were going to end up in the right position. Well, I was probably wrong about that. Damn that experiential learning! I did not measure where the old crankshaft CL penetrated the transom. I measured almost every other dimension I could think of, not knowing that that dimension was probably the most important. An OMC crankshaft CL is a moving target due to the way the OMC trims. My trim was, shall we say.. fixed by attrition? Never worked but the boat rode fine, so I didn't worry about it. Anyway, I did not get a lateral position where the old crank CL went through and now I have a little problem. I measured for the Merc CL, using both the 90 degree tool method and the tape measure method (both landed within about 1/8" of each other), and the "X" dimension I got seemed to be an inch higher than the OMC. I just got finished telling you I didn't get the measurement, so how do I know? The keyhole I drew on my transom looked high. In fact, it's actually higher than the original OMC hole by about 1.5" (I had assumed the OMC hole would completely encompass the Merc keyhole). I didn't know if this was kosher or not, so I measured, as closely as I could, my intermediate housing and my transom gasket to try to assess where that CL was. So, from the crank CL to the top of the intermediate housing (on the OMC) was "a" and measuring the gasket (which is a little brittle, but flexible so not completely accurate) from where the housing clamps in there to the top screw hole was "b". Add em together and it lands about an inch lower than my "X" measurement from above. So taking into consideration the inaccurate method I used for measurement, and the fact that the 2 different methods of finding the "X" dimension fell so close together, should I be worried? Should I just go with the X? Maybe split the difference which would drop the "X" by about a half inch?

 

when in doubt I always draw things out actual size on a sheet of ply real size !! you have to old boat so take the hole measurements from there , is better to set it a fraction higher rather than lower !! less spray better performance ,easier steering etc .

 

So it seems there's about a million threads on this forum, on iboats and others that talk about doing this kind of work, about 100 that actually start and maybe just a handful that get this far without throwing in the towel. So I don't have a whole lot of data to pull from for here on out. I found 1 picture of 1 guys transom who got this far on his rig about 3 years ago and his thread stopped right after. His keyhole was the same as mine, about 1.5" higher than the OMC hole. So either we're both wrong in the same way or I'm on the right track. I'm going to assume the latter. Since my 2 X dimensiions were so close together, I'm going to center right in between the two, so I'll either be a tad high or a tad low (off by 1/16" at most) depenending of how you look at it, but I'm going with X.

 

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/_cGDRinz8NGpFaF56ic1IKHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

I'm going to use this drilling rig to drill my holes for the keyhole

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/6W3hdjIsQeJ6C6MIuBFE4aHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

Outline of the keyhole. Note how the top of the keyhole extends beyond the original OMC hole. I had some heartburn about this but I'm over it. Moving forward...

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/A82Rudz-6cIRA-G31JpKwKHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

Sorry for the blurry, progress so far. Floor almost done.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/l6h1d6BXMYSFXPCsawTnsKHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

I didn't get precisely the fit I wanted, but I'm not going to worry about it. A little PL and tabbing and it'll be ready to paint.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/KXNVh6nJXpPgFXebSUmLyqHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

Bilge is going to be painted white gelcoat

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/em9s62tavbC2mUnLX9Q0AaHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

I'm planning on covering the floor with roll-on truck bed lining.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/7IcsZ7OCMe0bg1UtbYXjzqHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

Good shot showing the gaps. Not sure how I could have been this far off, but...

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/S_t0wd60P7PV4O4SzCT1cKHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

Rear bulkhead. I have to goop some resin on the edges of the cutout for the fuel lines before I stick the floor panel down

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/KAOFdQk5jjY4VqWc3n_MzKHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

I drilled my bilge drain off center. That's a goof. It's good enough though, it'll drain. There's also a TON of resin down there to I have something to attach the actual drain to. The transom filler doesn't go all the way to the floor of the hull, so I thought I'd have to build up something from the inside. Turns out that was already done for me. One more layer of resin to coat the hole, and the bilge drain is done.

Getting closer and closer every week!

 

Getting there !!

This has been a pretty well documented and photo recorded project and once the stern drive is fitted and motor mounted ,wires and all the hoses connected and in the water and going you will be able to smile that it really wasn't that hard after all !!

Hopefully some one else in the future will be able to look and see and be able to do the same of similar thatnks to you efforts !!

 

That drilling rig is well worth it. When i did my transom i considered one of those as well. In the end I eyed it for the outboard mounts. In hindsight I realize i got lucky as i got close enough for govt work but said if i was to it again i'd make a jig or template on ply and use one of those.

 

Thank you Tunnels! It's been a wild ride so far, and I have benefitted greatly from your advice! Swade that thing made drilling the cutouts for the steering easy. I cut the keyhole tonight. It took almost 2 hours because I went really slow. I drilled the holes for the steering first so I could line that rig up, and screw it into the part I was going to cut out, and it went fine. My hole saw only let me go so deep before I had to pull it out, and chip out the hole and start again, but once I got one cut in, I could take off the rig and do it the rest by hand. I didn't drill any of the holes because I got tired. More pics soon but what's left is finishing sealing / filling the gaps in the floor, sanding everything and painting the floor and bilge. Hopefully bilge tomorrow. BTW I measured the thickness and parallelism of my keyhole and I'm +/- 2.54 mm which is in spec. I was not expecting to be within spec without some grinding. I'll do a touch up sand of everything, but so far so good. Pretty happy about that.

 

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/M0JZZkEIJihxcMMv2h5RlqHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

Keyhole cut, drilled and coated with 3 coats of resin

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/j9qt6bbNp4wzhR81ApNxSaHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

Bilge painted white gelcoat. I only got a pint because HOLY COW that stuff is expensive. A pint was almost enough. Coverage was thin in some places but I think I'm going to call it good enough. It's the bilge for cryin out loud.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/yNj2j5DIZK_YDyHGVcKJv6HCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

Floor is sanded, cleaned, degreased. Ready for truck bed coating tomorrow.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/l-KK3VPEEuoRkPrIWQvAhKHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

You can see here some of the thin areas of the bilge

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/7ZajFHGuDJ284jTknPnCuKHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

I sanded the floor until it was smooth (ish) to the touch. BIG MESS. I hope it's enough. There's a little voice in my head that says I should just glue down carpet and save the 100 bucks.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/U6CcU4CJYL_kJ3hvQR2TPKHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

It's not smooth by any measure, but it's smooth enough to be a floor on a boat. Solid too, which is a new thing. Gaps are sealed up with PL, everything is tabbed to everything, and that transom is on the money. I'm both excited and really nervous to see how the drive fits in the hole, how the bolt holes line up, etc. I still have to gelcoat the stern. I'm going to ask my wife to do the color mixing. I'm going to try to get a maroon as close as possible to the existing and blend it in on the corners. I'm not going to get excited about perfection in color, I now know that uniformity of thickness and surface is more important. I might be able to pull the motor out of the rat raft tomorrow. After that, I'm off again for a week or so (this time on vacation for myself!), but I think I'm close. Getting closer every day anyway.

 

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/1CiU11McGSF8p3Kc1_x6cqHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

Everything is done, it seems.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/wT85U-h_WPx6AYv3-bSBCaHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

The Rust - Oleum is not nearly as thick as Rhino Liner, but for the moment it looks good, and it does have lots of rubber-ish traction bits in it.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/SADRCAPkDK_fWmE7nDRm6qHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

It rolls on like hot pitch on a roof. Wierd stuff. I like the white / black of the bilge and floor.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/-3sJdF2sOh-mK0oXxnOQ3KHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

Pretty far from perfection, but I'm hopeful it will last awhile.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ueOqdc-q_swUFupRW_4fYKHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

I had problems with the final coat of gelcoat on the stern. I used laminating gelcoat with a wax for the final coat, everything brushed. After an overnight, it dried (cured?) to a dull tacky finish. NO LIKEY. I know it's not going to be smooth like the OEM finish but I still wanted a hard, shiny surface. After going back to the store where I purchased the materials, they advised me to put cellophane wrap all over it, and let it sit in the sun for awhile. This was taken last night, and almost immediately I could see the surface getting harder and a shiny. I let it sit in the sun all day today (a high of almost 100) and by the end of the day, it was MUCH BETTER. Still not 100% where I want to be with it, but I hope another day or 2 in the sun and it'll be fine. I don't want to take that gelcoat off and do it again!

 

Back at it again. Everything is looking good so far...

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ZhqVV6l9OPyq369AzmCy8qHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

Sorry for the blurry pic. Not much to see really. All the electrics at the helm is done. Old wiring harness removed, new wiring installed. All control cables ready too. The steering system is obsolete but working. I'll have to spend the bucks on a teleflex system soon but for now, it will be fine.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/iUvxQ8wb95kJ6RW4cE5V5aHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

Everything back here is looking ok too. Bilge pump installed, not much to say until motor goes in.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/GZ1OYj72PpXLiCspP8RblqHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

All the transom through fittings installed and sealed with 3M 5200. That's some goopy stuff and I wasn't ready to make it very clean. The transom looks questionable anyway. I bet I end up re-doing it this winter. The gelcoat I mean. It's just not as hard as I would like, which means I believe, not cured correctly. I'm just not willing to go there right now. I'm too eager to get on the water. I know that attitude WILL come back to bite me.

Hopefully will pull the donor engine tomorrow. Transom shield seal kit and alignment tool should arrive tomorrow too. I'm really getting itchy.

 

All looks pretty awsome !!!

all takes time and wont be to long before the splash !!
That about the balance of the boat on the trailer ?? will the bigger motor up set that at all ??
Could be just a matter of shifting the boat forward a little or the axle back !
Or if you have a heavy towing vehicle wont worry at all !!!

 

Trailer is a bit of an unknown. It's bigger so has more room to move the boat around to achieve the desired tongue weight. It also has a tandem axle, so the effect of moving around is a little less. I'm towing with a 3/4 ton truck too, so it's really not that big of a deal for me either way, but it would be nice to get the tongue weight right in case I want to tow with a lighter vehicle someday.

I'm in the process of rebuilding the transom assembly, and it's going well. I've modified my bell housing go accept the new style of shift cable, and I'm in the middle of struggling with my bellows, which appears to be a Mercruiser rite of passage. If I can finish that transom assembly today I might be able to mount it and the engine in one day. Then it's time to connect cables and miscellaneous wiring, and install the drive. I'm going to replace the water pump in the drive even though I'm not sure to needs it. Peace of mind.

I'm probably kidding myself but I sure would like to splash on Wednesday. Getting closer and closer every day.

 

It's looking really good! back came out great looking.

I'm a big fan of spraying pva now for gelcoat on anything of decent size to seal it off. When i first started doing projects i used the sanding aid, but switched eventually. The bottles are relatively cheap and i'm not skilled at all (especially for the guys on this site) but the hatches, doors,etc i've built i've not had one not cure. Seemed fool proof for even my meager skills. My problem with the gelcoat + sanding aid, + mek is that's 3 things with shelf lives, avoiding the sanding aid to me takes one out of the equation at least.

But i do use saran, wax paper,etc for small chips.

Tunnels has a thread somewhere here on shooting with pva, good tips there, i found interesting when i went to use it first. should show up in searches easy. I don't get a smooth finish shooting any gel, but for a repair, a straight sanding block, rotary buffer takes care of that quick for things like a transom flat area.

 

Thank you very much! It's not perfect but it'll do for me . I painted the bilge with "pre fab" gelcoat from my local west marine. It cost twice as much, but was one step and cured hard and shiny. From now on, if I'm going to do any gel coating, the finish coat will be that stuff. Fixing it right is going to be a messy PITA because there's two coats pretty thick on there. Live and learn.

On another note, I was hoping to splash this Wednesday but I had a setback yesterday. I dry fitted the transom assembly and there is something amiss with my holes. I had to "modify" 2 of the holes I drilled to match up the backing plate and after that I thought I was in the clear but when I went to actually fit the gimbal ring to the transom it didn't fit. So I have to figure out what's going on with my keyhole. Even if I figure it out today, fix whatever hole is giving me a fit, cover it with resin and mount up the transom assy, there won't be enough time for the 3m 5200 to cure. Kinda bummed about that. Oh well. Almost there!

 

Made some good progress today

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Vvfmj4NuDYfGnWl83KC_oaHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

I had 6 bolt holes around the keyhole. 4 out of the 6 were right on the money and just needed a little cleaning up from gelcoat, etc to be right. The top 2 holes were exactly 1/2 inch too high. I don't know what happened there but once I figured out what was happening, some time with the rat tail file set me straight. Made the gasket out of rubberized cork material from my local auto parts store, and sealed it in with 5200. I doubt that stuff will be cured enough for a Wednesday splash.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Bh9qMfNUUS92WERwWJNGMKHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/DpsCKvh-TzahDaLij45Ww6HCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

That's the 6 going in. I used that opportunity to install a oil drain kit. Its essentially a 3 foot hose connected to the drain that makes the oil changes a little easier.

There it is.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/U0sJZguZdKgk6jySLy2tbqHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

I used my OMC Select Trim front engine support because I couldn't find the proper Merc part. That particular motor disintegrated years ago and I set the trim at about 5 degrees using a screwdriver and it was fine ever since. I little unorthodox but it'll work fine.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/_rPvvJdmwD_bafUJHm8QW6HCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

Notice how close to the edge the support bracket mounts are. That's a miscalculation on my part. I have some 15 degree bevel washers I'm going to use for those inner lag screws to get em to bite more into the wood. Also that front bulkhead could use to be a little more forward to give room for the fuel lines to be dressed over the engine support bracket. Not going to make that change now, I'll just try to dress the cables out of the way

By the way, here's a closeup of the new style shift lever as it comes out of the bellhousing. I was told by the mechanic not to let any more than one thread show on that brass fitting or else my reverse won't work right. I cranked that thing down in there as far as I thought I could get away with using my special Frankenstein design deep socket.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zT-WbYTFbkdeURzYjDmgHaHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

It's just a 6 point Craftsman socket welded to some other crappy one I had sitting around.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/HU0FuE3DjS9iHBTyd_q4hKHCuTx9N85ff0vacwuIzpg?feat=directlink

Not a thing of beauty but it worked.