Request your input on my design

A lot can be learned by carefully studying other designs.

Karl Stambaugh has several designs which would be appropriate for you needs. The Redwing 26 has a simple hull shape and accomodations for two cruising, more for day use. Recommended power is 20-30 HP. http://www.cmdboats.com/rw26.htm?cart_id=8107652d6e9affb9257a3980eab62fa0

 

If you want to get the chine in the water, flatten the V in the bottom of the hull. You will notice the other designs suggested are all flat bottomed (or close to it) where as yours has quite a lot of deadrise

 

If you want lots of interior space at the sacrifice of rough water ability consider a "barge" type houseboat like River Rat by William and John Atkin. http://www.atkinboatplans.com/Oar/RiverRat.html

 

Looks like a good idea if the ICW is protected enough, which could be doubtful.

 

What part of Aotearoa you from ah fella bro ???
LAND OF THE LONG BROWN FROWN!!
OOPS LAND THAT TIME FORGOT AND SO DID MOST EVERYONE ELSE !!
Maybe LAND OF LONG WHITE CLOUDS OF SOMETHING !!

 

You built a flat bottom row boat, now your a boat designer?

 

Well, you have to admit the design is "different" 805gregg ! I do hope the OP is not nursing intentions to actually build it, as I see only disappointment in it.

 

second boat you are classed as designer
third boat an expert and
fourth a professional with practical experience
Fifth boat then you get the golden anchor award and go into the book and recorded for ever and ever !!

 

Richard, you mentioned earlier that you want to begin building in December.
When I see your sketches, I think that you will have to rush and catch up on the design side. You will also need some time to source (and negociate) building material, get set up in your new place, etc.
If your intention is only to get your boat quickly and in a very affordable way, you might be better off to look for an existing design.

 

The attraction of ignoring proven plans and of building ones own amateurish design is a very real psychosis.

Its the " Ikea Affect "( google "The “IKEA Effect”: When Labor Leads to Love ") , a study about stuff that a person builds, becomes extremely valuable in their eyes.

 

Design and build a dinghy. Show it off with pride.
Build your cruiser to plans. You will save years of time and not waste thousands upon thousands of dollars.
Projects as large as building a boat are stressful on relationships especially when it is realized the amateur or free design is a disaster.

 

Richard; please do not feel that we are questioning your general level of intelligence. You asked for advice and you will get good advice from most of the respondents here. You may not like what they tell you. Your posts have revealed that you are not ready to design your own boat. Yes, you can design and build a boat but it is not likely to give you a desirable result until you know a lot more about what works and what does not.

Start with the drawing that you furnished on post #11. This is to be a displacement boat but you have given it no rocker. A disaster for a displacement type. Post #14 you have done your design work backward. The normal way to do it is to do a careful estimate of the total load the boat is to carry. You have done that but you are trying to make a preconcieved shape fit the displacement estimate. Do it the other way around. Design the immersed volume to meet the need. Have you calculated the prismatic coefficient for the shape that you have drawn? Have you calculated wet surface area for various bottom configurations? Displacement boats favor lowest practical wet area. Different cross sectional shapes yield different figures for a given displacement.

Where you place the forefoot in running mode is an item of interest. That part of the boat is influential in whether the boat maneuvers well. Poorly placed it can make the boat "Hard mouthed" and it can set up uncomfortable, even dangerous, twitchy behavior in quartering waves or wakes.

You have arbitrarily decided that 3 to 1 length beam ratio is good. The boat will work better underway if the ratio is much higher. It will go faster for a given power and use less fuel too. It might even ride a little better. You want the stern to be wide, for deck space I presume. OK make it wide on deck but not at the waterline. There are many more details, other than these, that need to be addressed.

I hope that you will take this critique as kindly as it was intended.

 

There are many stretches on the ICW that very often do not qualify as "protected water".

 

Please review the latest iteration in my boat design. I am still about 1000 pounds shy of getting the chines immersed. I don't want to reduce the aft deadrise any further, and I want to keep the sharp entry, large deadrise forward. In this situation where lightweight outboards are going to be used, instead of a heavy midships diesel, and the use of lightweight skantlings, how do you get around this dilemma of not enough empty boat weight to sit on the lines. How would you change the bottom profile and sections to move in the right direction?

http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y408/richardfast0/Slow22_zps7abce60c.jpg

Thanks,
Richard

 

Your latest rendering is beginning to look like a boat, but we can't see any waterlines. And if plywood is the intended hull material, the forward portion of the bottom won't be happening, it needs to be a developable shape that takes account of the limitations of bending the material, both in terms of radii and not having compound curvature. You need to be familiar with those requirements, and how to go about drawing it up.