Books for Layup Schedules

Ok well said and yes I do agree whole heartedly once boats start to get into the high 45mph plus then you are entering a realm where things really need to change !!,the higher the speed the more the change is required in everything !!.hull and deck design takes on a whole new meaning as you are in to aerodynamics that have a really big influence on behaviour and handling !, construction would be much different to just a ordinary every day kind of a boat where you strap on a 25 hp outboard with the limiter removed and go for it kind of a thing !! speed and stability are two very important subjects and they don't necessarily go hand in hand !.
But we are only guessing as to what the gentleman is actually thinking about.

 

Bingo. I'll add that on small boats, like the one I think he's interested in, speeds over 25 MPH will have bottom and slamming loads increase exponentially.

The best thing is a solid SOR or possible some pictures of similar boats, that he's interested in.

 

Well, to clear up a little bit of the arguments.
I have a bachelor's in physics so I'm capable of doing calculations if I have formulas. I also feel I have a pretty good grasp on aero/hydrodynamics. I'm thinking when I do design my boat I will try to calculate lift the best I can to keep it from flipping.
I don't want a boat that is 12' long and can hit 100mph, maybe just a cruiser that can do around 30 or 40 mph.
I am looking to eventually set up a shop selling mini's so I'm going to start out building some wood prototypes for hull designs and when I find one I am happy with I plan on building a mold for it and going into production.
Pictures of what I'm going for...
http://golowh2o.com/?page_id=588
I also want to build a mini F1 Tunnel style (as scale as possible) because I've always wanted to drive one and I think that would definitely turn heads.

 

This book will answer your questions. I highly recommend getting a copy. It covers layups and how to do simple analysis of structures. It is for the homebuilt airplane crowd but it works for boats as well.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/bvpages/compbasics.php

 

Try the SST 45 class or search for a SST60 !!

The mini F1 is close to the sst 45 class so that's worth a look at . The motors are omc 2 cylinder basically the 50 hp but a racing version . There's a 4 cylinder merc motor that fits the same bill and being 4 cylinder is a stokey wee thing with more torq
One sst 45 that I designed and built would do in the hi side of 80 mph and a real thrill a minute to drive and handled like it was on rails .The omc motors peaked out at 9000 rpms at around 80 plus hp so worth a look at !!.

Worth a serious look is this site http://aeromarineresearch.net/details.html Mr Jim Russell pops up here on boat design now and then !!

something else to look at !! http://www.dillon-racing.com/customerboats/talcott/index.htm take a look through the pictures and see if you can spot something different about the boat being built ,its something that most people would take no notice of , its not a trick but something very necessary for tunnels of al sizes !!

another good place to haunt http://www.hydroracer.net/forums/showthread.php?t=11601 for small tunnels and the like !!


Not forgetting this site !! http://www.apba.org/classes/sst-60 hope you find something interesting on any of those places !!

 

Damn, Tunnels and I agree again? His last post is precisely what all budding designers have to do - study known, well founded designs. He learned this way, I learned this way and every successful designer I've met has had a long love affair with hull forms, trying to figure out why they do what they do. Some of us take technical paths, working with flow dynamics and theory, while others make slight physical adjustments and see how it works out. I've done both, some good, like my latest racer, some I learned a lot about what not to do.

Ken Warby is a fluke and very lucky. The days of this type of adventure are mostly gone. He too "snuck up" on the 317 MPH record, with progressively bigger and bigger steps and advances, literally in his back yard. We've seen this in the past and it does happen from time to time, but it's not common, especially now. When was the last time a home built F1 car or Americas Cup boat or Indy racer or 1/4 mile dragster, broke the back of the competition in the last couple of decades. This is partly the computing capacity of modern technology, but I think mostly because we want more then "just trust me" from a designer now a days. Especially if a screw up means you're dead.

This is why I generally frown on home design without the fundamentals under your belt first, no matter how you get them. In your case Hydro, you seem to be in a better position than most in this regard. Study craft that are in the ball park as far as the shapes and sizes you want to work with. Initially, don't veer too far away from these, until you develop a personal data base, of why things do what they do. As you test "augments" to these designs (in the machine or empirically) you can expand your "features" and your performance envelop will grow.

 

Don't know what your getting at but I worked with a old time aircraft engineer that was mad about boats and going fast and we spent countless numbers of hours drawing on black boards and scribbling on numerous sheets of paper, thrashing theories and predictions of aerodynamics and always no mater where it all took us we always came back to the basics of flight of old fixed winged aircraft and foilf sections and the like and not forgetting the phenomenon of ground and surface effect , aerodynamics and ground effect are gradually playing a bigger and bigger role in the everyday life of the ordinary boat and with out then actually realising its happening !! the motors get more powerful the boats get faster and its now impossible these days to get to 50mph plus in the family runabout and that's when like it or not boats become flighty and in a head wind oooh the nose wants to lift !! more young guys need to realise the new boats lighter and faster and its getting closer to take off speeds like a uncontrollable fixed wing lift .
Like I started a thread a while back about designs need to change and its because of these very things , all to do with speed and how it is affected by the shapes of things we make .
Modern car design shows us how important design is and how much it is influenced by speed and how the rushing wind has power to it and car designers have managed to harness some of this rushing wind and put it to good use !!, so boat designers such as my friend and like yourself because you sound in the same age group "Jurassic" sort of !!, are still sitting and not realising the world is changing around them like it of not . I don't have people friends my age because they all died long time ago and sitting in the shade whistling at 50 year old women is no where on my list of things to do ever ,even 28 or 30 year olds I hardly give a second glance .
so light, fast and really powerful and make it fly !! that's me !!

 

Wow thanks again guys for the great advice.
I think my main concern going into this is that I have relatively little knowledge.That's why it's great to have such a great group of guys with so much advice!
Tunnels are you talking about the shape of the underside of the hull? It looks a bit wavy. I was thinking about that the other night how it may be beneficial to keep the bottom flat until you get to the rear and create some lift in the back of the boat by the motor. This may reduce flipping?
Thanks!

 

Aerodynamic dynamic lift isn't a concern on boats, until you're over 60 MPH. A boat can be pushed around by wind gusts, which can be addressed to some degree, with a modest on deck aero approach, but for the most part, using the hull as an airfoil or shaping the hull to hold the bow in a specific location, just isn't relevant until you have enough pressure, which occurs in significant amounts starting at about 60 MPH.

Hydro, the waves you see (strakes and strippers) are what I previously told you to ignore in your initial design attempts. Getting these right takes a bit of experience and some study.

You need to puck up a book or two on the basics. The most efficient hull form, for a full plane mode powerboat is a flat bottom, but these have their issues, as do every single other hull form you might select. Establish what you want this hull to do, what conditions you want to do it in and the hull form most suitable, will narrow down to a few obvious choices. You'll needs some study to understand which are most suited and more importantly why.