another wooden boat owner

Hi there, I purchased this 1961 11,5 m wooden sloop some 2 years ago but since that time I did nothing. I suppose she needs some hull work but I really do not know anything about wooden yachts. She is ashore since the time I bought her, in a hangar. But she was launched every year before that. I know for sure that a) she was leaking a little, b) the planks and frames are ok - a carpenter has seen it and tested with some kind of a pin. Now she does not look like dried, but I may be wrong. Where to start? What should I do (exept painting) before launching? An old member of the club where the boat is stored told me that I will have to launch her and simply run some good bilge pump for 3 days I really need help because recently I owned only a 16 m steel ketch. Thanks for any advice

 

Your 'old club' member is correct. If possible have her hanging from a crane for at least 24 hours and be prepared to pump for the next 48 hours at least. A sound wooden hull should seal itself.
But before launching crawl around under the hull and check any external fittings (transponders, external plugs etc). Check the rudder hangings and give them a grease. If you have an inboard engine check the shaft gaskets. Check the blade for any damage. Inspect anything that in future will be submerged. And if you're launching in salt water you might like to add a lick of antifoul. Oh - and redo your 'bootstraps'. The topsides can be painted once afloat.
Once afloat check out all the running gear (though that's worthwhile doing while waiting for the crane).
And stand by for further advice from other forum members.
And by the way, welcome to the forum.

 

Thanks Bergalia, well, but what about some leaks I observed 2 years ago? Maybe I should take off the old paint (using some hot air or something?) and do some caulk inspection? How to find that leaking places? And maybe this is the right time to do some oil impregnation on the underwater part of the boat?

And BTW what book about wooden hulls renovation do you recommend for such a begginer like me?

 

When you check the metal parts that go thru the hull or are screwed or bolted. Pull as hard as you can on each one to make sure corrosion has not weakened them. Same with the shaft and rudder stuff. ANY wiggle is big trouble in waves.

 

Can you remember exactly where you saw those leaks (two years ago?)
Sounds like the caulking may have been inadequate - or dried out too much.
But still worth skimming along the seams and prodding the caulking. If too hard, tug it out and replace it. In the absence of oakum (hard to get now-a-days) I used lengths of unravelled hemp rope, well 'fluffed out' and dipped in linseed oil, then reapplied with a putty knife. But a good soaking when she is dangling from the crane should tighten her up.
But stand by for further advice from 'older' hands than I. And don't despair - leaks are why pumps were invented

 

Thanks Cyclops, I will check the shaft when removing engine and replacing bearings. All sea valves must be replaced, they are rotten. What do you recommend - plastic or metal?
Dear Bergalia, I can't remember where I saw those leaks... But I think oakum was squeezed out in those places. You know the previous owner of my boat was not a single person, it was a yacht club. They treated her bad, have not enough money. And they did not tell me anything about her before transaction, I don't know what wood it is, what kind of paint it was, etc. Maybe I have to launch her and sail one season to see what she needs (if she will not sink).
If you need real oakum I can send you some

 

Sounds a familiar story - a 'club boat' - and nobody's responsibility...
Still, never mind. She looks in relatively good condition - and timber boats can usually take more punishment than the 'modern' plastic bathtub, or tin biscuits barrels (ducks the expected flak... )
It will probably be best to replace all the caulking if she's been ashore as long as you estimate. (By the way, thanks for oakum offer...but I've a couple of kilometres of hemp rope yet to be used... )
Caulking, once you get the 'knack' can be quite theraputic. It also gives you the chance to throughly inspect quality of timbers especially where plank faces meet. Again it never hurts to know every inch (cm) of your vessel.
Mind you if you do a total re-caulk you'll need to repaint - UNLESS - you decide the 'bare' timber looks good. And nice gloss timber hulls can look spectacular. Again it depends on the timber used, but both pine and mahogany types can smooth up well.
here I'm bound to call down all kinds of wrath and scorn - but on 'bare' timber I begin with a couple/three of coats of linseed oil. Let it soak in thoroughly (it's a great preservative - and usually takes the majority of marine varnishes as a top coat) - and will also marry to most paints.
As for through hull fittings - I'd go for metal (bronze/gunmetal) every time. But that's just a personal preference.
The most important thing Vonglass is not to despair. You've a long job ahead of you - but, trust me, it will be worth it. Just wait till you see the looks on the other, 'older' club members' faces when she's finally relaunched. They'll be green with envy.

 

I wouldn't be the least surprised if Bergy preserves himself with linseed oil occasionally, at least externally.

Yoke.

 

Vonglass, It is difficult to accurately assess your boat based on the photos you provided due to the build up of barnacle roots on the wetted surface. Since you are new to your boat, and it has been on the hard for 2 years, you might want to remove (scrape and sand) the wetted surface's antifouling paint. This will afford you the opportunity to inspect the planking, fastenings, and caulking. Both inside and out. Look for staining and poor plank/frame faying joints as an indication of fastening troubles. It is probably necessary to remove the antifouling anyway, since coating over it would prove to be a waste of time. Once immersed, the old antifouling will slough off, leaving the hull at the mercy of marine growth and wood boring ship's worms. You will find that the planking has shrunk up and that there are probably a few areas that need some real maintainance work. The areas that generally require addressing are at the stem, stern post area and at all areas along the garboard. It also appears that, based on the photos you provided, the ballast keel bolts need checking.Areas that show rust spots or streaking are an indication of fastener fatigue. Remove and replace them. Just make sure to remove any caulking first. This ensures that the planks will return to their original location. In fact, this might be a good opportunity to remove all old caulking and refasten the whole hull if you can afford it. You might want to check the rudder pintle bearing and gudgeons and the stern bearing. At the very least you will have to ensure that everything moves freely, Is aligned properly, and is well lubricated. All through hull valves and water intakes should be in good shape as well. This includes the hoses attached on the inside. If you cut the first coat of antifouling with turpentine you will get better penetration and therefore protection. You will require at least three. Two that are thinned with turpentine. As concerns swelling the planking, your boat has such a steep deadrise that a few lawn sprinklers left on for a few days will probably go a long way towards alleviating an already stressful launch day. Most of what I have stated is general in nature and is not a complete list of what you must do. But rather, it is just a few basic things that you might want to think about before you consider putting your boat back in the water. Remember, two years is a long time for a forty year old boat to be on the hard. If it were mine I would ensure that EVERYTHING is addressed before launch day. Please do not get discouraged by my words. Your boat seams to have retained her lines quite well and has a pleasing look to her. Try taking some really accurate photos including close ups and pan shots of the same areas. This would go a long way to allowing others to offer accurate assessments of your situation. In addition, you might want to seek the advice of a qualified shipwright if you have any apprehensions or concerns. Good luck. I look forward to your continued posting on this fine site.

 

Ah Yokebutt, you've guessed the secret. Take a peep under any Scotsman's kilt and you'll notice a distinct lustre to the cluster...Linseed oil. And whisky (without the 'e' lubricating the inside...)