Kurt Hughes Daycharter 36

Much as i prefer tiller steering outboard wheels may be the way to go. Those are a great looking cat.

 

A friend had a large cat like yours, he kept it at Blackbeards at Blue and Hall, it was taxicab yellow, named "JODOBEER", maybe you've seen it around. From what I remember, the rudders on each hull had there own tillers which were connected with a long aluminum tube that was a little above the aft beam, pretty much out of the way of everything. It allowed him to work the rudders from anywhere back there, as compared to standing in the center at a centrally mounted tiller. If you have only one rudder (good luck with that) there ought to be some simple way to rig it for use from different positions.

The engine control (1 outboard) was mounted on a plastic milk crate that he would slide around the deck, depending on where he was standing (or sitting) while motoring.

You really don't need a console for the engine controls. You could mount them on the forward face of the aft beam, out of the way. They don't have to operate fore and aft, ie, forward and more throttle would be starboard, reverse and less throttle would be port. The controls can be mounted to swing out of the way when not in use, which can be for weeks/months at a time when cruising.

http://www.danielfuneralhome.com/obituary_detail.php?id=2180

.

 

I like a console because it protects me from flying guests and gives me a place to store stuff like a cold drink, camera, VHF radio , charts.....

Dont know how guests behave on a multihull.

A big reason I prefer windward side steering is that the guests arent in my face.

 

SamSam, sorry to hear about your friend. 61 is way too young.

I will be doing a lot of motoring, and it will probably get exciting at times, especially places like General's cut, up your way

I still have time to think about it. I do alot of just sitting out on the deck these days

 

Why not hing your console to fold back and make a seat when you dont need it in weather? Rick

 

Hey Rick, The one thing I won't need is extra seats. I an earlier life, I spent four years living on a 27' sloop. I promised myself then, that my next boat would have PLENTY of places to stretch out, stand up, sit or move about with as few, "head bumpers" and "toe stumpers" as possible. I am now at the other extreme. I could have a square dance on this deck

I have started glassing in a 3/4 inch thinwall pvc pipe at the perimiter of the nets for a rod insert to lash to. (photo) so far, I have structural bog to fair it in, with one layer of 12 oz biax, and three layers of 10 oz uni. Is this enough?

 

I dont know Charly, I have'nt gotten to start my build yet, so I,m learning from you and Cat. I hope you get it right.

 

This has to be right. I might get one of those "big women" up there, and need the support

In another thread someone said a layer of 600db would suffice. I was hoping someone would confirm that.

 

Fairing Bows

The pointy ends were looking pretty rough after the splits and repairs at foldup, way back when. So, I took a tip from Silver Raven (where is he anyway?) and glued on some pieces of divinycell as a guide. They are beginning to look more tolerable now, and I hope to sand them out one more time next week and cover them over with several layers of six oz. tape. I added some white pigment to the epoxy and balloons, to tone down the dark brown, and let the paint hide better. maybe.

I still plan to do some piercings. Maybe. and some kind of composite gizmo to hold a snatch bloc for the bow bridle, a la Jim Brown. Maybe. and the composite attachments for the bow tube, for sure. somehow.

 

One of my uncles built a sail boat once with about a 3" wave in the bow, it sailed ok. It was a 22' er , I told him I would sail to the Bahamas with him when he finished it. I,m 6'3" and he built the berths 6', I spent one night on it and told him I was'nt going any where in that boat I,ve always felt a little guilty. I lost my father and him last summer, he so wanted to see me start my boat. Your bow looks great Charly. Rick

 

bow piercing?

Don't know what else to call it.

Sure would like to hear some opinions on this. I reckon about 1-7/8 ID would give plenty of room for a one inch line with a fire hose chafeing sleeve, in a blow.

Anyone else done this or had any experiences with this kind of arrangement?

The triangular section of deck at the bow, forward of the bow tube connection must have a 4" deck plate for access, and maybe a running light. Anyway, it would be getting pretty crowded up there with a cleat as well, especially a beefy one, so this seems like a better deal. I could still mount a deck cleat aft of the bow tube connection, and would have the option of taking up a dock line or bridle by leading the line through the bow hole first and then up to the cleat from there, the stem and bow reinforcement would take the bulk of the strain. At least I would have some options.

I cant think of any cons, except looks. I guess I am just old fashioned.

 

bow tube attachment

These brackets were made up on the table, bagged to a male plug. They have to be substantially thicker than the aluminum type ones that are in the plans.

After mounting the piece on the deck, I reinforced it with another L piece that was also bagged on the table, and then formed up a "bog sandwich" out of aerosil, resin and chopped fibers. This was then all coved and faired into the deck, and covered with biax and uni staggered out onto the deck in all directions.

I still have to thru- fasten it for insurance against uplift, and reinforce the underside of the deck and around the collision bulkhead. For this I can either use fiberglass rod, or uni fabric laced through the deck. (or both?)

The hole that accepts the pin for the bow tube endplate will have a metal insert to protect the glass from wear, and the plate can also be set in place with bog for a perfect fit.

 

cleats

I made my own ding dang cleats.
This article was the inspiration.
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/13/howto/organic/index.htm#.URLw3aVX18F

They were cheap to build. I used 1/2 inch fiberglass rod. Is it strong enough? I can always use stainless instead.

 

A couple of photos of how the cockpit wheel, console and mast base instruments were arranged on the Chris White catamaran I crewed on recently to bring back from Port Lincoln. It all worked well and was a pleasant place to steer from.

 

drool.
Hey thanks Corley. probably more invested around that mast than I have so far in my whole project

What are those two lines for that come up through the nets on each side? There is a re-inforced hole in the nets there where they come up through from underneath.:?: