Buccaneer 24 Builders Forum

sail size

OTB, where did those sail sizes come from? I have a taller mast, but I think?? my fore triangle is about the same as a "stock" Buc 24 with a masthead rig. My pin to pin on the forestay is just over 29', and the hoist on my furler is 28'. My J is 8'4", while Sam's boat used a jib tack all the way to the bow- not a bad idea for max sail area. I use a full hoist (27'6") 155% jib much of the time, and I am often looking for more power. My main (with a taller rotating mast) has a hoist of about 32' with a 12'6" boom and a fat but not square top. (no back stay) The main seems sized about right, with maybe a little too much foot. I have a "small" spinnaker with a 31' hoist (just above the forestay), and a mast head spinnaker with a 38' luff and 20' foot- still too small Over powered is just enough B

 

Outside the Buc

Sorry OTB, I couldn't help it. My 24 has no glass on the outside except for the decks, and has held up well both in fresh and salt water- also for 40 years. I think OS supplied the epoxy- it has certainly been durable.
I would prefer a thin layer of glass on the main hull up to the water line for fairing and abrasion, both in and out of the water. I would tape the float keels, and leave everything else just coated in epoxy- I don't think good ply needs anything else, and any glass at all adds a lot of weight. B

 

Bb the dimensions were straight off the plans but all is noted

 

Yes as it is going to trailer we were thinking to dynel/epoxy to boot top line just above waterline on main hull and tape joins and epoxy only to floats. If all goes well the trailer should arrive Saturday as have found one locally that had an old Trailer Tri on it but it got run down in the Sounds and the guy will part with trailer as boat was lost. He said the Trailer Tri was 1100kg so the Buc should be sweet on it. Will post photo's if we get it at the our price.

 

Some site changes and pricing started to be added

For those watching there have been updates to the site relating to retrofits and various other items of interest to the Trimaran test mule which will run glass or aluminum retrofit system definitely not molded post cured Carbon fibre/epoxy, it should be noted as is advised in the appropriate places that all is indicative from design/engineering study and will not be hard and fast until our in house retrofit prototype Trimaran and Catamarans have been fitted with the system in glass or aluminum and thoroughly tested and commissioned properly. Initial indicative release is for Carbon hi end high tech building!!!!!!

 

OS, Why not scan them and distribute as pdf's by email rather than printed drawings ?

 

Great progress

OTB, You guys are productive- stripping an old boat is hard work, and you seem to have made a quick job of it
I would not expect a good folding system to be cheap- there are just too many parts and development time involved. However, the added value to the boat is tremendous, and would still leave a Buc or other tri price competitive with an "F" boat- without some of their design restraints.
Keep up the good work and the photos, and thanks for posting the progress. B

 

Hi bb thank you for the input and the assistance offered along the way so far, we have the rebuild as a priority presently as see no use having a hulk sitting in the way of other prototyping etc so the work will continue until it is in the water as a demountable first, exactly how Lock designed as original as we can restore it.
We will then set up the jigs from measurements and glass skins we take from it and get the real time prototyping of the folding system going on these mock ups in the workshop.
"It should be noted" when thinking about the EZIFOLD system (Catamaran or Trimaran) you have to forget all that has come before with the F system Trimaran and the C2F Catamaran with a multitude of parts and bushings and bolt this on and have this compression pad and that strut etc (don't get us wrong we have nothing but respect for Mr F (or Rafi for that matter) as have worked with and for and he is an absolute first class person to work with and contrary to popular belief by some you would not get a more genuine person, we can not speak highly enough of the time involved with him and his operation so far)
The beams (four of as normal) that actuate the Trimaran fold have 5 pins and that is it! Two that lock the system remove for fold and presently we are refining a single leaver cam arrangement on both the Catamaran and Trimaran folding system so there is only one lock pin per beam that needs manual insertion our intention as development continues is for there to be no manual pinning required so all are locked down by cam leaver. The floats on the Trimaran (as do the hulls of the Catamaran) remain vertical through fold and the beams do not create air draft when folded.
The system from inception is designed to be simply built and to be EZI. Cost, simplicity and weight will always be the enemy however in the time since 96 when this EZIFOLD project began we have seen massive changes that make it all able to come to fruition.
"BUT" (always a but) until the boat is on the water and folds as designed and is affordable and can be built then all bets are off as this is a personal passion that hopefully others can enjoy.
Thanks again for assistance/advise from everyone so far and have a safe and enjoyable Xmas, New Year period from the team at EZIFOLD.

 

And all the best for Xmas and the New Year to you at EZIFOLD. Good luck with your ground breaking developments. Research is a bit thin on the ground these days, so your effort is much appreciated.

 

All good OS7 we are very much enjoying Lock's design so simple yet provides so much, a trait we enjoy here but is often forgotten in this day of high tech everything. At the end of it all, people are still people, time is still time 60 to the hour, and the water is still wet and wind still blows for free (until some idiot works out how to tax it) so all are the same so the Buc design's provide what they did all those years ago..... simply human attitude has changed perhaps. Sam/bb/yourself and others we do not know of yet certainly prove the worth of the Buc 24' and hats off to everyone's attitude towards just getting out there and doing it and making it happen.

 

RR said:- "OS, Why not scan them and distribute as pdf's by email rather than printed drawings ?"

Reuben it's not as easy as that.
The pdfs kindly provided by S S, when blown up to full size and re-printed were not useable due to blurring of the small detail.
The full size frame patterns were capable of use, but with some care, due to the thickening of the lines.
With copies of the Parts list and Building Instructions and a good three view to measure the station dimensions, a set of plans could be back engineered but it would take a lot of know how and may be beyond the ability of a typical new builder with little or no prior multihull boat building experience.
I had a complete set blown up and printed out, (at a cost of $85.00), but they proved to be useless.

 

building question - stem

How everything joins together at the stem seems to be left up to the builder - would this method work well, or is there better way given the buc's type of construction (chine/stringer/gunwhale already attached to the ply sides)?

 

Just had a quick look in the workshop, our one seems to be done as depicted in your graphic.

Have just posted the last two pictures for the year workshop looking like it should and clean again before the fit out over the break and painting is finished off, then back onto the Buc again.

 

I just checked up on sheet 1. of the plans and the building instructions.
It shows the stem frame made of plywood, into which the stringers etc: are notched. When the glue has set the stringer ends can be cut off flush with the
front face of the frame piece and a suitably shaped stem can be built up with laminations,---- or do as I did and glue a cedar 4 x 4 to the front and shape it to a nice section. Cedar is good because it is nice and soft and in a damaging collision (as with a dock) it will dent rather than shatter and is easily and quickly repaired.

 

buiding question - stem

oops - I forgot to mention that I'm working on a float, not the main hull, which uses a stem piece rather than a frame.