Plug Building

This is the finished boat or the plug you refering to ??
If its the boat the more shape it has the better !! from a glassing point of veiw makes for a lighter boat as you dont need lots of glass or core thickness !! just some good glass foam glass framing inside !!

 

Seal the back side of your planking with MDF. Jeff.

 

We've finished planking the bottom with 3 layers of 5mm MDF. We beveled each plank then glued and stapled it into place. We've removed the staples in the last layer and started long boarding it. We're also working on a leaning post with small storage below the helm seat and an ice box below the aft seating.

Jeff

 

Wow its looking good !! well done !!
topsides must be well underway !!
Do you have the hull and deck join detail sorted specially the tramsom area ?? And you need to have a sample of the belting join cover strip on hand now !!
Yes even at this very early stage these details need to be sorted so they can be made to work properly during the manufacture and assembly stages !!:idea:

 

We're working on jigs now to support a duplicate shear as if it were on the hull. Then we'll build the dech right on top of it.

Jeff

 

Glad to see some people thinking ahead
The last plugs and mould i made the flange had a rolled over edge with a recess where the deck sat inside and glued in place with a coloured flexable epoxy so made sure the glued ozed out and then stick coved and wiped off and the joint was 100% finished all in one go was nice detail and being a yacht we didnt need a rub rail the glue used was absolutly amazing . the designer had speced a 30mm wide glueing flange but i doubled that to 60mm wide and was really easy to fit and assemble . Anyway good luck !! keep the pictures coming its really interesting !!
Any thoughts of the glass you'll be using to build the boat when the time comes ??going to do adrop in grid for the inside ??

 

This will be the standard shoe box fit and we'll glass the entire perimeter and the bolt on the rubrail.

I'll put 34oz on each side of the core for the sides and 51oz on the each side of the bottom core. Obviously the keel and chines will have double that framing things out.

Yes, we'll put a stringer grid inside but we'll have to build that mold once a hull is complete. The grid will be glued in but we have decided which glue just yet. Maybe the 292 Sikaflex. The grid will have the storage boxes, ice boxes, battery boxes, oil tank provisions and fresh water tank built inside. The intent being that once the component lamination is complete, the boat can be assembled and rigged in a few days.

Jeff

 

So what cores you using topsides and hull bottom ??

 

We'll be using Baltek

 

And thickness:?:?? Bagging down onto wet class or into a core bond ??

 

3/8 on the side and 3/4 in to bottom is the plan. In the first boat we'll probably stick it with core boat and check the usage to make a decision for the next boats....
Jeff

 

Something to remember is the bottom panels have shape as a concave so this will add longtudinal ridged strength as its part of a cylinder . SO your 3/4 balsa is way over kill !!,15mm would be good and depending on the frame work inside even 12 mm i would seriously consider and advise to use !!.
The topsides with 3/8 is ok .
Whats your glass layup for the boat ?
Thought a bout this all afternoon and the following is what i would use !!

The bottom I would be looking at gelcoat ,300 csm +450+ 0/45/45 tiaxle 800 gram +450 ,12mm core , 300 csm 45/45/90 tiaxle 800 gram + 450 to finish

Topsides gelcoat 300 csm , 450 csm + 45/45 double bias 800 gram ,300 csm ,9 mm core ,300csm+ 45/45/90 800gram +450csm finish
Again the top sides have shape and that will add lots to the stiffness so use it to your advantage .
Build light and build strong and get the speed up !!!.

 

Tunnels I have to take issue with your post. Its obvious that you work in the industry but you repeatedly offer advice on engineering etc that you obviously know nothing about. The fact that you don't understand why a concave cross section is structurally less eficient speaks volumes. Coupled with this you have given engineering advice on a boat you know nothing about. Please keep up the building advice, but leave the engineering to those who know.

 

Tell me about why a concave shape is less stong than a flat panel i am dying to know !!!!.
please enlighten me i am always willing to learn and better understand the thinking of others .
Engineering !! what is there to know ?.
3/4 balsa on a hull bottom on the outside of a concaved surface is logical ???? ,
What about a solid glass lay up for the hull bottom ?? would you recomend that and what kind of a glass layup?? thick and heavy ?? or just a medium weight with lots csm used ? ,
would you consider using a light solid glass lay up of just layers of unidirectionall glass ??
so you dont conside shape of a panel will add anything to its strength ??
would it be better if the bottom was flat ??
what about a convex shape ??
come on i what to know what im doing wrong ,give me information so i wont make the same mistake again .
TELL ME! TELL ME !TELL ME !! I WANT TO LEARN AND UNDERSTAND TELL ME !!


The fact that you don't understand why a concave cross section is structurally less eficient speaks volumes ,
i MUST BE MISSING SOMETHING HERE please enlighten me about this statment!!!
Im not going to loose sleep but its been going round inside my head for the last few seconds !!

 

Pre-empting Offshores answer, I am only guessing that he meant a concave hull was less efficient than a convex panel. (outies are stronger than innies) rather than a flat panel , but I also await the answer.