4 Stroke outboard oil

The OP contemplated switching to single grade oil for price reasons only and all of us have tried to convince him that using multi grade is the way to go.

As I said in post #3 the price difference is so small it does not substantially lower the running costs and I assumed he has compared mineral with synthetic.
But there is more: A quick survey on the internet learns that engine oil companies are very reluctant to show prices. Only when you dig a little deeper and compare retail prices it becomes clear there is more than a factor 10 price difference for each specific type of oil and quantity, even more when including quantity discounts and limited offers.

So to lower the service costs all it takes is to compare prices and/or invite offers from various suppliers.

 

There are ways to re-condition used oil. At fleet scale you are using you may want to check into this: http://www.pescova.com/oil_recovery/

"Used oil can be re-refined over and over again and is subject to the same stringent refining, compounding and performance standards as virgin oil. In the USA, it carries the API Service Symbol “donut”."

 

Are you kidding me?

 

Regarding the initial engine wear on "start up":
Why not delay the engine from "starting" for 10 seconds...allowing the oil to flow, build pressure, and lubricate first??

 

You can use a pre-oiler or you can crank an engine a bit before starting it. But neither is all that common, even in expensive aircraft engines that will definitely wear out. My guess is that it doesn't make much difference and that a lot of this stuff is based on "thought experiments" instead of real data. Plus, with the amount of hours/day that bmtsa is running, startup is far less of a wear issue.

 

I have no clue how to do this. Can this be done via the control unit program??

 

I wasn't but I can if you really want me to. Cost of refining unit versus engine replacement on a regular basis may be a money saver in the long run.

 

Fleet mangers change filters now more than oil. 40W Rimula Oil is so damned good it will do 100,000 miles. many units have dual or multiple filters and change frequently.

Marketing oil is as you will have noticed is a viscous competitive dog eat dog world with even silly named oils such as' XXXX high dual purpose' denoted suitable for common rail diesels engines which as you and I know is only its injection system and refers to nothing but the level of ignorance of the buyer

High cost does nothing but pay for the insurance of law suits for fraud.

Its as bad as washing powder or tooth paste ads.

It ALL comes from a hole in the ground, every single drop of it.

 

Crude oils are not all the same. There is a huge difference between bituminous and paraffinic. They yield oils of different characteristics.

 

I did not refer to crude oil. My humorous reference to a hole in the ground was meant to be un specific. After refinement most of it is from the same vast storage, then you buy it and add what you want to make it better than any one elses --even if its not true.

Ive never heard an oil manufacturer boast light sweet crude (meaning low sulphur)

But you might have just started something there as finding more ways to say its better.

Norwegian light triple x molecular modified super duper multi turbo common rail 40w

A mouthful but sounds good.

 

After his retirement, a Shell R&D executive said on Dutch TV modern engine oils can last a lifetime as long as the filters are changed in time. It did start some commotion, but Shell quickly came with the explanation that the message was misinterpreted. They emphasized the spokesman only wanted to illustrate the quality of Shell lubricants.

This does support Frosty's post #23.
To ensure future sale of their most profitable product line, oil companies make deals with car manufacturers to have them recommend one specific oil type and lead customers to believe they void their warranty by using anything else.
GM in Europe went even one step further by specifying an expensive synthetic oil of their own brand that should be replaced every 10.000 miles and/or once a year whichever comes first.

 

Synthetic oil is not so expensive. It cost about 60% more but lasts at least three times longer.

 

I think that the "lasts longer" part is highly dependent on the situation and exactly why it needs replacing. Manufactures typically specify the same change interval with synthetics.

 

The oil manufacturers give a longer interval and guarantee that the warranty won't be voided.

 

the base oil might last but what about the additive package?
Thats what gets used up