IMP Boats Information

Discussion in 'Powerboats' started by JKE, Jan 17, 2005.

  1. NNVMIKE
    Joined: Dec 2011
    Posts: 1
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    Location: Northeastern Nevada

    NNVMIKE New Member

    My Inca is a 74, but sounds the same regarding layout (most were).
    Fuel cap is 80 gallons.
    Get out your wallet.

    Mike:rolleyes:
     
  2. biggercb
    Joined: Jan 2011
    Posts: 1
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    Location: KS

    biggercb New Member

    New to me 69 IMP Aztec

    Just picked this up from my old neighbor. Less than 200hrs on the boat. Anyone have any performance data on this thing? Will I see 45mph? Has a 200hp Buick V8 with and OMC stringer.

    Hasn't ran since 1995, so I will be reviving the old girl.
     

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  3. edjunior
    Joined: Feb 2008
    Posts: 103
    Likes: 3, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 11
    Location: Texas

    edjunior Senior Member

    Nice. Not for sure you'll see 45mph, but it is possible. Mine tops out at about 43mph. I have the 5.0L 225hp Chevy. I gotta get it out this year.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. Starvin48
    Joined: Mar 2012
    Posts: 2
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    Location: New Baltimore, MI

    Starvin48 New Member

    Hey y'all. I have been lurking awhile on this forum but just wanted to say thanks to those who get together to talk about IMPs. I picked one up in November of 2010 for a song and a dance and a washer and dryer (long story). It's a 1986 27' Liberty with twin 4.3s. Does anyone else have that one or close?
     
  5. edjunior
    Joined: Feb 2008
    Posts: 103
    Likes: 3, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 11
    Location: Texas

    edjunior Senior Member

    Welcome Starvin. Do you have any pics of your boat?

    I just got my impellar and water pump replaced. I was hoping to get her out this weekend, but family issues are probably going to get in the way. It's been too long...I gotta get her out!
     
  6. Starvin48
    Joined: Mar 2012
    Posts: 2
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    Location: New Baltimore, MI

    Starvin48 New Member

    Thanks for the welcome! I do have pics but not on this computer. I'll get 'em up soon. I JUST got her in the water at 8:30pm on Sunday. Hooray!
     
  7. one2dmax
    Joined: Jun 2012
    Posts: 2
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    Location: Derby Kansas

    one2dmax New Member

    First Time Boat Owner - 1985 IMP 200BR

    Hello Guys and Gals,

    My name is Sean and this is my first boat. My day job is working for the aerospace industry and I have a small business building motorcycles (www.MorleysMuscle.com and also the same named Facebook page). I was raised with the old musclecars and still have many of them to this day. We have an older Morleys Musclecar site that pics some of them. I do sell car and bike parts for about any brand.

    This is going to be long lol and details where I am at so far! The questions are at the end of the post. I have a total of 6 weeks (not that many left) to resurrect the boat before our family vacation.

    Pics of the boat from a few years ago (not stored outside anymore though):
    http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150620401518679.406483.282702488678&type=3

    I bought this boat a few years back in unknown condition and didn't even see it before I committed to the purchase ($675). I figured the trailer was worth the cost of the boat or I could part it out. It's the stringer drive which I hear good and bad about but since I am ignorant about boats I have no reservations at the moment. It does have an 8 person rating which will work out great for us and with the bowrider arrangement it has a nice open layout.

    Engine:
    The original 350 engine was full of water and is seized up and will get an eventual rebuild. For now we are going to use a 327 I had laying around here that had been previously rebuilt. I don't think this block is nearly as strong as the original engine from the boat though. I know the heads from the boat have much larger valves so they would flow more air/fuel for sure!

    I was a bit surprised that the original block is only a 2 bolt main block (didn't check to see if the crank was forged but would think it would be). The 327 is also a 2 bolt main, and for now I am not moving over the original engines windage tray (should not be a problem since this isn't a long term engine). I did move over the deeper oil pan and pickup from the oil pump. I tack welded the pickup in place since I have heard stories over the years of them falling off and destroying an otherwise good engine.

    I had all the parts bead blasted while I am moving them over and found the intake was cracked as well as both log sections of the exhaust manifolds (the shorter risers are OK). I found out the intake was a generic small block truck intake and could have picked one up from my local craigslist for $20 if I had wanted. BUT, I ended up picking up a edelbrock "performer" intake for $50 including new intake gaskets! I had to weld one small crack up by the distributor hole since some retard thought they needed to hammer that area probably during a removal.

    It's also missing the choke mount that would have come with it but that's also a simple part to replace along with the new choke rod to get it hooked back up to the original quadrajet carb (which is getting a rebuild).

    The exhaust manifolds I found on ebay for $150 each though they don't have the extra ports for the drains like the originals did. Shouldn't be a problem as I can always blow air through them to get the fluid out when prepping for the winter. Seemed like a good price to me!

    We are going to repaint everything the original silver and I even have a graphic artist friend going to help me reproduce the original decals that were on the valve covers. I am moving over the stamped Vin decals though.

    It's of course getting all new belts and hoses along with plugs and wires. I am upgrading the points distributor with a Pertronix unit which should be more reliable and "safer". I am also using a "mini" starter which though designed for a car is cad plated to resist corrosion and also spark resistant (more like what a boat would require). We are going to clean up both the fuel pump and power-steering pump since I believe them to be OK. We did also get a new waterpump. The balancer looks fine and no bent pulleys we can spot. I do need a new fuel line and large filter housing (and line to the tank).

    At this point the only thing I am concerned with is the engine mounts. I have read a few different ways some have tackled the issue with loose mounts. I am not super excited to redo the hull in any way, shape, or form! I think the best route for me is to either:
    Install permanent anchor bolts in with epoxy, resin or simply something like liquid nails OR
    Put the straps in with welded nuts to the current base and redrill new mount locations front and back (fore and aft) of the current locations.
    I am thinking the anchor bolts will work though.

    Chassis:
    The overall shell of the boat is in good condition with minimal spiderwebs and even a decent gloss to it. The hours showed 13xx if I remember correctly. There is one bad spot on the bottom of the boat where the trailer is rubbing on it. We are getting the correct new tires for the trailer and also having the springs re-arched to get the correct ride height back. When we get the boat off the trailer we'll redo the carpeted supports and get that back in good shape again too.

    The steering was locked up tight and I originally thought that the engine had to be in the down position to turn. We finally got the tilt jumped over (no switch to be currently found) and it went down just fine (not up though). I unhooked the steering link from the power steering unit to see what was/wasn't frozen up. I was almost ready to give up on the steering cable when it popped free and steered smoothly. I reconnected the linkage and the power steering unit also turned very smoothly and even the fluid that was still in it came out clean and the nice red color.

    The overall electrical looks solid but I need to go over everything and get it all working appropriately. I found out where the main fuses were by looking at the original owners manual which I luckily have. Got to check them, add the tilt motor switch and get it all working. I also need a replacement chrome wire cover for the center of the forward/reverse gear handle.

    The bilge pump was not working and with a little effort I got it broken free and working perfectly. The ventilation pump however is not going to fix I don't believe. I am sure it's an inexpensive part (relatively) since it's a simple 12v motor.

    The light mast is mostly intact except the base which is got some homemade crap on it. I'll fix, fab, or replace it as needed.

    The swim deck is in great shape with the drop down ladder too. We'll replace the teak inserts though they are usable as is for now.

    The interior seats and panels were in complete **** shape. We removed the entire interior less floor and side carpet. All the seat bases were rebuilt or repaired and it's getting all new coverings in the original colors (gray, white, and maroon). My 14 year old daughter sprayed all the new and old wood parts this last weekend with Thompson's so it can be ready for the covers.

    We are going to try and refinish the teak wood trim and doors which I think will look nice when done. The carpet actually cleaned up quite nicely with a power washer and shampoo! Was pretty surprised actually!

    When we put the dog house (engine covers) back together I will even sound and heat insulate it. Should make it very nice back there. I have yet to look at the canopy cover but that will be easy to make if needed.

    I believe the fuel tank is in good enough condition and think it's already been drained (by another friend that looked at it).

    Outdrive:
    Here's where I REALLY have no experience but it was put together by "man" and I have no doubt that they were no more intelligent then I am.

    After some reading I found out that my tilt motor problem might be a simple fix. So, I took off the cover and found a nice rusty looking crap in there (but not bad as I might make it out to be). I sprayed out the area in there and was messing around with it some more and getting no results. So, I ended up taking the plastic plug out of the backside and removing the long set screw from the access hole. Still nothing going on at that time so I get a "bright idea" to maybe remove the gear on the inside of the housing. I was sitting there on my stool under the boat farting around with it with my 2 flat screwdrivers (I didn't want to go over to the shop to get the right snap ring tool). Anyway, next thing I know the outdrive slams to the ground right next to me (and chips off a 1/4" off the end of it).

    So, I sit there thinking how much of a dumbshit move that was and called my daughter out again. Now that the unit was loose from the clutch I had her run the motor in up and down directions to free it up some more. I had read that some used grease to fill the housing in place of the 30 weight motor oil that is called for on the manual. I tried to pack grease in there like you would a bearing but wasn't having too much luck. So, I grabbed a double handfull and simply cupped it over the housing and pressured it in while she ran the drive motor back and forth. Once that was done I packed even more in the cover and worked the cover in place. While I am working this cover back and forth into place it was like silly putty with the grease squirting out the fill hole lol! Got the cover (and rest of the parts) back in place and tried the motor again. Well, the daughter crossed the wrong solenoid and I watched the lower unit actually pick up the whole boat and trailer! Whoops! OK, back in the correct up direction and up it went nice and smooth! Down is still once fast some ***** though!

    Next I proceeded to the outdrive unit itself. I again read up a bit and figured out there are 3 different "sections" to the lower outdrive unit. I drained the lower most part first which started out with a good portion of clean water followed by somewhat actual clean out. Must have been sitting a long time for it to separate that well. I didn't see any rusty stuff at all so hopefully no damage done there.

    I took a quart of my BG synthetic gear fluid and "flushed" the case housing using my new to me adapter tool picked up from our local Cabella's. Once it was flowing nice and clean fluid I capped off the drain and then pumped more fluid into the case (stopping to turn the propeller every now and then). I removed the hose and let the excess drain out and put that plug in.

    On to the mid gear case. This case was clean fluid to start then some nasty black stuff. Some quick air pressure on the fill plug got it really flowing. After doing the flush and fill on it I put it back together too! ***Note, I actually did the final fills by first filling from the bottom hole and pushing up and out, plugging that off and then from the top hole by overfilling and letting the excess drain.***

    The last section was the main gear and engine support section (not sure the specific name). Drained the nasty black fluid from it and refilled without any drama too. I went through 4 quarts of that synthetic fluid (thankfully I have a BG engineer friend that helps get me some sample stuff).

    Everything seems to turn reasonably decent by hand (even in gear). The "ball drive" fingers look pretty worn and hopefully will make the first week on the water (supposed to be July 4th weekend). Then I can replace them (and the dang fluid again lol). A seller has them on ebay though I ready a post from years ago saying something about it. Worst case I will simply make new ones (I have a very talented machinist at my disposal).

    One question I did have:
    Where would water go that would enter the area where the splined drive from the output shaft? I know the water should normally never get that high but I can see obvious water intrusion from where it sat for a long time. I suspect it simply drains out somewhere but not sure?

    Does anyone have any pictures of the engine bay that shows the stickers from their original 5.7L engine from that era? I have some pictures but not sure I have as many as I would like. I also need the warning label from the powersteering pump that shows the "Metric" threads warning.

    I know this forum isn't super active but it's about all that is left for IMP owners like myself!

    Thanks,
    Sean
     
  8. edjunior
    Joined: Feb 2008
    Posts: 103
    Likes: 3, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 11
    Location: Texas

    edjunior Senior Member

    First, welcome. Unfortunately, I can't see what you have (blocked Facebook from here), so I can't even see what you have. So I'll have to wait until I can get home to see. It almost sounds like a 800 stringer, but could be prior to the stringer as well. Anyway, we'll see who else comes on to help.
     
  9. Elkhunter173
    Joined: Jun 2012
    Posts: 1
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    Location: Buffalo, wy

    Elkhunter173 New Member

    Save this 1970 IMP Iola 21' boat

    I inherited a 1970 IMP boat. My cousin whom died 2 years ago left me with this boat. I have a Crestliner and dont need another. This boat was my cousins life and it shows. I dont have picture of it yet but will post them.
    The boat has a 350 ci that he rebuilt which only has 72 hours on it. He put over $6000 in the motor alone and I have reciepts for about another $6000-$8000 in other fancy stuff he put in it. ie electric anchor, trolling motor, trailer winch, fish finder, CD stereo system, Scotty electric down riggers and much more.
    Too make this story short. I took it out to the lake and ran it and boy did it run good for about 30 min then I heard a grinding noise and it went into nuetral. Come to find out the upper gear housing was empty and I ruined the gears.
    I do not have the time or money to put into another boat. I am going to sell it as is for $6000 within the next month or I am going to strip the motor and equipment off of it and haul it to the scrap yard. Just the equipment on it will bring over $6000. If anyone is interested in saving this 1970 IMP Iola 21' boat you can email me at elkhunters173@bresnan.net and I can send pics and video.
     
  10. Don in Texas
    Joined: Jun 2012
    Posts: 2
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    Location: Texas

    Don in Texas New Member

    imp X245

    Hello, I aquired a 1987 IMP X245 Freedom. I was hoping someone has a similar model with pics of interior. Mine is totally gutted and was hoping to get a basic floor plan. I will build it from scratch, I have a idea of what it might be, but it would be nice to stay in the realm of original if possible. With some upgrades of course.
     
  11. edjunior
    Joined: Feb 2008
    Posts: 103
    Likes: 3, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 11
    Location: Texas

    edjunior Senior Member

    Welcome Don. Did you search all the pages of this thread? There's not many that new on here. Most of them are the older IMP's. I've also found searching E-bay and Craig's List can turn up some IMPs. For Craig's List, search in the Midwest, especially Kansas, Arkansas, Missouri areas. They were built out of Iola and sold big on Lake of the Ozarks. There tend to be a lot for sale there that could provide the pictures you need.

    Where in Texas are you?
     
  12. Don in Texas
    Joined: Jun 2012
    Posts: 2
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    Location: Texas

    Don in Texas New Member

    I'm in the Austin, TX area.

    I live in Cedar Park, TX.
     
  13. one2dmax
    Joined: Jun 2012
    Posts: 2
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Derby Kansas

    one2dmax New Member

    Got more done on the boat and did a water test today with good results. Got to adjust the overstroke switch and some other misc to finish it up. BUT,

    Need to see if anyone with the fold out seats can get me a picture of the assembly of the seat bases? Need to see how the small brackets and misc attach under there. I think I have the actual 4 part seat assembly correct but not sure about the other parts on the actual base.

    Sean
     
  14. crystalblue
    Joined: Aug 2012
    Posts: 1
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    Location: seal beach

    crystalblue New Member

    Yes, I would love to see a 1969 IMP INca cruiser manual/brochure/catalog, anything specific to that boat for a friend's 60th birthday that is restoring his fathers...let me know.. thanks
     

  15. pdave1s
    Joined: May 2006
    Posts: 77
    Likes: 1, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 4
    Location: Clearlake Oaks, Ca

    pdave1s http://impboatclub.com

    Can anybody help me identify the year, and model of this IMP inca, all I have is the manufacturers plate serial number, KH231296. I know it is late 60's early 70'a inca attached is a photo of the boat itself
     

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