Rewiring a Classic Mako

Discussion in 'Electrical Systems' started by luisinmoreno, May 15, 2012.

  1. Stumble
    Joined: Oct 2008
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    Location: New Orleans

    Stumble Senior Member

    1) soldering electrical connections is always a bad idea on boats. The solder makes the connection much stiffer, which makes it more prone to vibration induced failure. They are also much more likely to have been done poorly. This is why ABYC doesn't allow them.

    The proper way to add fittings is a ratchet crimp. These place enough force on the crimp to actually mechanically weld the wire and the fitting together. Then heat shrink over the connector.

    2) everything wired to a battery directly should have its own fuse. This is not optional (though a breaker panel is). In case of a short in the line this is what keeps the boat from burning to the water line.

    3) the use of tinned wire is best practice, but is also very expensive. The tin acts as an annode and will corrode away first thus keeping the connection good for longer. But this is only really necessary in places where the connections are subject to being wet, or being sprayed. Certainly bilge pumps, and exposed wiring, but not necessarily cabin lights.
     
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  2. therollingfrog
    Joined: May 2012
    Posts: 2
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    Location: NZ

    therollingfrog New Member

    The best way to connect the fitting to the wire is to use a DURASEAL crimp link
    [​IMG]

    It's a crimp & Heat Shrink. When heat up properly, you can see some glue coming out of the extremity. This will make your link waterproof and fully isolated. :D

    You can by them by packet of 20 or 100. And they cost less than 50cents.
     
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