Displacement hull fishing boat?

So my fancy idea doesn’t seem totally wrong. Can someone comment about this cute little trawler http://www.boats.com/boat-details/Custom-Little-Island-Trader/115102071

 

There is some real potential there!
Click here for the designers website.

 

Too much money IMHO in comparison to other buys out there.

Boat is similar in concept to http://idlewildexpedition.ca/theboat.htm
Interesting to see the larger vessel has a smaller motor.

 

Sabahcat, true I know close to nothing about boats, but to me they look totally different, except the aluminum. Idlewild is much prettier IMO, it would be my choice. And considering it's round the world journey it appears to contradict all the theory about the displacement hulls. Probably the best story I’ve read about round the world navigation.

 

Just one remark concerning Idelwiss , it is the roll I read somewhere up to 60° , it is a lot !
Longcours also roll but far less in °, the problem with boat with great stability it is the short period of the roll, for us betwen 2,5 sec to 3 sec (without sail and mast) depending if the go tanks are all full , one or more empty or partialy empty.
Dashew with very similar size say longer period, but with big Naïad system it is more confortable ...and expensive.
PRB we saw you are in Italy it is not far from us , if you want take a closer look of Longcours you are welcome.
As we wrotte before 18 months ago we got quotation for one hull near similar to Longcours at 9 euros per kg in Vietnam and 15 euros per kg in Estonia.

 

PRB, I would like to weigh in on ordinary maintenance. As was stated earlier in this thread, most marine diesel designs are "borrowed" from commercial engines used in agriculture and small trucks. There are many brands with many different "recommendations" which are just that. To run the most effecient fluids maintenance program, testing is a great and money saving idea. Realize that there are two ways that "marine" recommendations come to be. One is that the engineers that designed that engine for a dusty farm field or smog filled interstate just simply interpolate the recommendations from the on land use to the use range( the rpms and torque curve expected in the vessel where the application is to be used. Just a hypothesized crap shoot. To find the correct interval for you and your vessel ( which will differ from me driving your vessel) is to get a baseline test around the time you survey. Surely before you buy. This test will denote certain problems and wear. Even if the engine is healthy, it will give you a baseline. Then find the recommended interval and test when you change. If the sample is stable and has not begun to break down, go a little longer next time and so on. Most of the long range cruisers i talk to get almost twice the number of running hours per change as what is recommended. Reason being, less dust and constant running rpm. Now if you are a "gunner" or like to go WOT(wide open throttle), starting and stopping often, and letting the boat sit idle in moist conditions, then you may need to change more often than man. rec.. Do not let diesels scare you. They are a magnificent invention and remain almost like Rudolph Diesels original(except for the electronics of modern day( which, if you have problems that are not related to the Fluids or air flow, will be electrical. An advantage of older "naturally aspirated" engines is the lack of or limited electronics. Read lots, take courses, get surveys, find trusted brokers. Leave the lawyers and the mechanics out of it! I to am working on a build or conversion plan. robert jones

 

PRB:

I totally missed this thread,I read "fishing boat" and as I have no interest,I skipped it.

I would like to know what you have planned...is it cruising around the Inside Passage,or do you want to go to Haida Gwaii,or the west coast of Vancouver Island?

It seems you have zero experience with boats,in every way-and you have chosen the most challenging coastal waters in the world.
I've been on the coast since I was a small kid,so 30 years.

In summer,it can be calm for weeks on end,but you still need to deal with the tides and currents. But then a storm can blow up and outside of the Passage you can have 5m swells.

Most of the big inlets have slack tide of maybe 10 minutes,and may get up to 15 knots at peak. Even the straits can have several knot currents.
For example,if you are passing by the exit to an inlet running at 15 knots and the tide is outgoing,you will be pushed-maybe into an island?

By mid August the inlets get fogged up and can stay that way most of the day.

My personal take-have a boat capable of speed so as to run the tides (instead of being pushed around by them or waiting all day for them to change) and being able to outrun weather to a cove to tie up.
But not too fast-as there are whales,logs,orcas and in the remote areas are rocks that are not on maps. You need to know the weather forecasts.

IMO you don't need a "trawler",I've done this for 30 years without one BUT I have the experience.
But you can't take them out in a big storm...but even with a "trawler" you don't want to be out in them,as you can be pushed ashore.

Oh,and any engine in a boat you will buy will not need it's oil changed every 2-3 days.

There's more coastline in BC than the entire US,you can spend years boating and kayaking around all the islands and inlets.

 

The only way you can outrun weather w speed is if you stay within a mile of "shelter". I've often heard that theory and consider it bunk. There are many many places on the PNW coast where you could be many miles away from "shelter" and 7' seas can develop long before you reach shelter. And of course most lightweight planing boats do'nt even like 3' seas. Millions of boaters w lightweight planing boats have traversed these waters since the 50s (including small outboards) but the idea that one can outrun a blow with speed is just bunk 95% of the time. Also semi-planing hulls vary WIDELY in seaworthyness so the best solution to the seaworthyness issue is a real full displacement boat like a Willard or Fisher. But at 6 knots you're not going to outrun anything but a fuel dock .....not even 40' sailboats. I know as I have a 30' Willard and larger sailboats go right on by me but with 2 tons of ballast I feel quite safe in the nasty. But I will definitely check the weather before setting out especially in the vicinity of Rose Spit, Cape Chacon, Cape Muzon, Cape Ommaney, Cross Sound or Slingsby Channel a summer afternoon w an ebb tide. But those places can be avoided and should be w most any kind of boat. I live in Thorne Bay north of Ketchikan along Clarence Strait. Lincoln Rock is close by and 100mph winds are'nt uncommon in winter and are'nt unheard of in summer. You can cruise extensively year after year w a planing or semi-planing boat but the full displacement craft is far supperior in seaworthyness. And the more knowledge you have the less luck you will need. I have lots of knowledge and experience now but there was a time when I was boating on the coast and had next to none. Only once did I have an experience where-as I was lucky to have survived and it was'nt all luck even then. Now w the high cost of fuel and great distances along the coast I would'nt have anything but a full displacement boat. I know North Van dos'nt share my opinion and there are many others. You should hear them all and after a time you should be able to align yourself and your boating to suit your own activities and form your own well based ideas or philosophies that will render you able to continue to grow ....and we all do.
Easy Rider

 

Displacement only for me for rough weather of high seas. Also, most fuel efficient!