Slickest folder ever

Its hard to tell from the photos, but it looks as though the sail has too much fullness forward. More mast bend would probably be beneficial. Google gnav, as fitting one would help

To Frank: its a Quantum sail

Richard Woods of Woods Designs

www.sailingcatamarans.com

 

Thanks, Richard. Where does one purchase a sail like that? I have been wanting to try one of those high-tech buggers. I can never seem to find anything like it online -- only windsurfing sails.

 

http://www.quantumsails.com/

 

Thanks!

- Frank

 

If you want to go hi tech I would use Dave Calvert rather than Quantum. He is quite near you as well, which always helps

http://calvertsails.com/page2.html

Richard Woods of Woods Designs

www.sailingcatamarans.com

 

And thank you, sir, as well - Frank

 

Hi Guys

The main reason I showed the sail was the way the battens were placed to get better sailshape. It was similar to Frank's in the way the battens fanned out like his so I thought you might be interested. I did not mean to hijack the tread as everyone was asking about reefing so this was one way to do it.

Jim Gluek (Melges) and Eric Wilson ( Harken) made the sail with my input on the batten layout. It worked ok but the top still blew off in medium winds. I thought I would try this to see if it would help. Once I have enough wind to fill the sail properly the mast does bend and I get the proper draft in the sail. It might have just a little too much fullness but when filled in light air the fastest speed was to loosen the outhaul and downhaul and make the sail full so we will see.

Richard the boom is fixed so the mainsheet and traveler controls the tension.

The reason for this design is all the lines are attached and all you do is insert the mast into the mastbase and you are ready to sail. I can reef the sail and still have good shape. It is not perfect but for this design it works very well. I can also lay the mast on the cradles next to the sidecar when paddling in no wind conditions.

This sail has been a testbed for a roller furling sail with good performance. It started as a 22' luff and was reduced to a 19' luff. It took a few years just to get the right size for most conditions and now I am just trying to tweak the batten layout and final luff curve before getting a new carbon one made.

I am here in Wisconsin so I try to use the local sailmakers here. Dave Calvert or Randy Smyth would be able to make a great sail for you. For me I can bring the boat to the sailmaker and have him rig it all up to get it right.

I hope that clarifies some of the things I wrote.

 

Hi Richard

I took your advice and rechecked and made a template of my mast luff curve with full mainsheet tension.

It was way to full and did not match the curve of the mast that has the same shape as a longbow. The deepest draft is right in the center and the top and bottom are even when checking the curve.

I had 2.5" at the max.

Since this is a sleeve the last one was a little on the tight side and was hard to tack unless you had enough wind to flick it over. The 18' luff was 8.5" width on bottom to 6.5" on top.

I increased that to 9.5" on the bottom and 7.5"on top.

From the center of the mast we took about 2" out on the luff curve on the sail and trimmed it better to match the luff curve of the mast.

A roller furling main with angled battens like this is hard to figure out on boats like this.
I think you do excellent work on your tri's & cat's and really value your insight.

When I get the sail rigged with the new mod's can I send some pictures and get your opinion on how it looks and any other tweaks I might have to do?

Let me know either way.

Thanks

Edward

I did have a F24 around 1993 that I set up for singlehanding and raced that for about 3 years. But sails like this are hard to find data on.

I tried a pm but that did not go through so that was why I posted it here.

 

Cuppla ideas

Well, what a great thread! I'd previously found Frank's DIY Tri site while researching small trimarans, as I intend to build one with folding akas for easy trailing....then I found someone else already had!! Way to go, Frank!

But I agree with RW on the folders - having the akas fold from aft forrard into a socket (reverse of what Frank's does) means the main forces acting on the aka from the boat's forward motion will be being resisted by the socket/bracing as well as the rope and a clam cleat.....but I acknowledge and accept Frank's reasons for doing it the way he has.

But I think I've come up with an idea that will help solve his main reason for NOT doing it in reverse - that of 'balance' of the three hulls while launching - see attached.

The idea is to add pivoting cup-shaped bunks for the amas to slide in as the boat launches....so the longer vaka hits the water first, but the amas are still supported and as the supports pivot, will maintain that support relative to the vaka as they slide off the trailer. Might help??

The other idea I had which I thought I'd share is a modification to the traditional tabernacle design. So, using a rope pull from the cockpit - like Frank uses for his Smoot E-Z Up - but with the addition of a self-latching mechanism along the lines of an automobile door latch. This in turn could have a cable release for lowering, like maybe a bonnet release cable off a car hood/bonnet?

Also, for those who want a stayed rig, you could add either a forestay and/or backstay, and/or main stays from Dyneema that could also run through blocks on their chainplates back to the cockpit and cam cleats or Spinlocks.

You'd probably need a 2:1 winch to put any serious tension on the stays, but I'd reckon it's do-able......and then you could have a stayed Bermudan.

OK, I know Frank doesn't want one, but I do...!!!

What do people think??