Bow roof shed

Discussion in 'Materials' started by Steve W, Nov 11, 2011.

  1. skyking1
    Joined: Aug 2011
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    Location: Tacoma

    skyking1 Junior Member

    Because of the thickness of the truss, you could double wall that with inexpensive plastic. It would heat a whole lot easier, and less of that 'rain'.
     
  2. Steve W
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    Location: Duluth, Minnesota

    Steve W Senior Member

    I just got the plans from David yesterday and i think he suggests double walling it for that reason and also putting plastic down on the floor, i think Knotty Bouys put plastic on the inside of the trusses.
    Steve.
     
  3. skyking1
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    skyking1 Junior Member

    I think I'll build some stem walls to increase height, and still stay under my county's permit requirements. I can go 576 square feet without a permit, 18x32.
     
  4. KnottyBuoyz
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    Location: Iroquois, Ontario

    KnottyBuoyz Provocateur & Raconteur

    Building up some knee walls is an easy way to gain height. I've seen that done on pretty much every commercial sprung structure the farmers use.

    I lined mine with Tyvek and plain black plastic. The black plastic goes up about 5 feet and then tyvek above that. Don't ask me why, i don't know why I did it that way other than the white tyvek is better for lighting.

    You should cover the floor if building over dirt. Most of the humidity you'll get inside will come from the dirt floor.

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    [​IMG]
     
  5. Steve W
    Joined: Jul 2004
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    Location: Duluth, Minnesota

    Steve W Senior Member

    I probably wont be building the bow roof shed as i need about 30ft width but i may do one for other smaller projects.
    Steve.
     
  6. skyking1
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    Location: Tacoma

    skyking1 Junior Member

    I will probably do some welding in there, so I would put down a vapor barrier and a couple of inches of gravel as a work surface. I think that would do it.
     
  7. skyking1
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    Location: Tacoma

    skyking1 Junior Member

    KnottyBuoyz, how did the shed fare over the winter?
     
  8. KnottyBuoyz
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    Location: Iroquois, Ontario

    KnottyBuoyz Provocateur & Raconteur

    It's just gone through it's second winter. Still standing. There were a few rips from wind storms but Gorilla Tape fixed those up enough to get me through at least another winter. The shrink wrap plastic might not of been the best choice but it was significantly cheaper.
     
  9. skyking1
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    skyking1 Junior Member

    Thank you very much, this is priceless information. Were the rips just storm stress, flying objects (I can situate mine away from the trees fairly well), frozen snow/ice, or does it look like the UV is taking it's toll?
     
  10. KnottyBuoyz
    Joined: Jul 2006
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    Location: Iroquois, Ontario

    KnottyBuoyz Provocateur & Raconteur

    The UV doesn't seem to be affecting the shrink wrap. It does destroy the tape that I bought though. Switched to Gorilla Tape and no more problems.

    The rips I had to fix were just wind damage along the bows. Sometimes you get a little too much heat in one spot and it shrinks really thin. Not totally unexpected. Largest was 2' long maybe. Heat sealing the seams works really well, I haven't had a seam let go yet. I figure this should last another two winters anyways.

    My biggest fear is wind getting underneath it and it taking off! :p Just anchor it well and seal it all the way to the ground and you should be ok.
     
  11. skyking1
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    Location: Tacoma

    skyking1 Junior Member

    See, I think it is still the best choice for me. I have the time to do it and replace it once. It would not be imprudent to dream about it going 2 applications and 8~10 years here. I'll go with the white. I have decided on a poured concrete floor and using OSB for the first 6 feet on the inside. that will stiffen things up quite a bit.
    Having a 16x36 shop without tax penalty for 10 years is priceless.
     

  12. thudpucker
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    thudpucker Senior Member

    My "temporary winter garage" was not nearly so elaborate as Rick's Taj Mahal.

    I used wood cut from the local forest, made a bridge over the boat.
    Put the Clear plastic tarp on first. The Clear is waterproof but dies easily out in the weather.
    Then the Blue tarp. The Blue will leak eventually, but it will withstand the weather.

    Where the Blue tarp came to the ground, I rolled the edges up in a small log, then staked it down, then Piled Dirt up the first foot or so.
    That kept the wind from going under the tarp.

    I also used "tensioners" made of plastic jugs half full of water, to keep the tarp taut.

    Rick's has lasted two winters, and still in use, where my whole cover went into the burn pile each spring.
    I think doing it Ricks way is good because it can be re-covered year after year
     
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