Hedley Nicol Trimaran Plans

I consider to be too narrow, and should need an extra mini-bulkhead led into the wings at both fore and aft of the main & rear crossbeam bulkheads. This should 'beef-up' the spot where some Nicol tri's appear to have parted company with their floats.(This includes his own on his fateful loss at sea).

It will be interesting to hear comments from other Cavalier owners.[/QUOTE]

hes own if by headly you mean did not just come apart, it was sawn off and inscribe. all ok, continuing on way. it later wash up on to a beach. where it was found. my wanderer was built in 1965 as well, and has been put through some rough conditions and i dont and havent had a problem. oh other then going onto the trailer at the yard, it made a creek or two i never heared before haha. sorry for the correctioning

 

I found 4 cases of a Nicol loosing an ama and 2 of the boats had been involved in a serious collision with unfound or poorly repaired damage. One was a Islander rigged as a sloop the other model was unspecified. The others were ketches where the main mast backstays were led to the ama transoms, I'll correct my other post where I said it was the mizzen. This would probably be alright with the 3/8' ama skin of the Cavalier if the attachment for beams M and N at and after frame 6 were reinforced as described and the ama hatch moved forward of bulkhead 5 and/or made smaller with the ends radiused to avoid stress concentrations..It would be better to locate the main backstays to the aft side of bulkhead 6 where the main aft beams attach. One other thing to check for is that the ama floor or sole is glued and fastened into place. This adds a lot of stiffness, holes should be put in for bilge access.

 

Many thanks to Cavalier Mk II for such an informative reply, and so promptly too. Your ideas and info make a lot of practical sense. It just will require a little time for me to fully absorb and then have a further chat. Just very busy 'surviving' right now. Regds, Robinglen.

 

Me too Robinglen. Most of this was worked out in Oz back in the day. I've practiced what I preach so have learned by doing. The boats should have had 3/8" frames for the amas taped in, but the retrofits are even stronger and not heavy done right. There are different solutions too. It will be easier if you can plan to do the work with the deck off, my Vagabond took a lot of Zen to handle the tight quarters with the deck on but if worse comes to pass you'll have more room in the Cavalier amas.

 

hey cavalie, triwanderer, glenn and all
sorry for the lack of updating, and to you triwanderer for not calling mate, ive just been flat out and not as nimble as i once was. so the days sure take there toll ahh the joys of boating and living aboard. i wouldnt change a thing unless i had the money to of course
well im on the hard, have been the last 4 weeks or so.

have cut the side hull keels back to original and they look pretty good. lots of work though as the last repair work done there were air bubbles and even un-wet fibre the keel reinforcement was made up of one layer of 250mesh believe it or not.

poor repairs made to each nose of each side hull it seems some one seem to run into a thing or two removing some sand inbeded glue from the gunal a tennis ball size hole was found, just in that one spot on each side and to the tips of each nose, mainly just being poor glass work air bubbles all over but least there found and can be repaired properly now once and for all.

i found that in most places any repairs done were full or air bubbles and glass in most cases was laid straight over anti foul, often the anti foul being right at the edge of the added glass and lifting

the main hull keel had been extended by 2.5 meters forward and curved slighty to the starboard so cut it back to original size.
the heads i tell you, no mater what way i turned it, it would not it out the hatch way, so tarp in & a reciprocating saw, cut in half and out she went, tarp thrown in rubbish, **** and all
aft cabin floor removed, again glass hadnt even bonded with the wood, peeled off like a banana. large fan in and drying going on as we speak.
rudder removed, old hole sealed up. new rudded poss yet to be cut, as now the tiller will be mounted on the aft cabin roof, some what higher then the cockpit seat.

ive cleaned, sanded and epoxy wood treated the anchor well, sail/rope locker and the forward cabin storage boxes and any where needed.

windlass needed a full over hall and what a painful time that was, just working out the odd bolts and nuts, i mean yes it works, how its lasted is beyond me, other then the seezing up and the leaks prior to over hauling it, it use to work, needs a battery in the anchor well though to give it full volts, lot of power lost in that 5metres of green coated copper wiring., battery box on the cards.

engine bay or under the cockpit i removed the top layer of flooring as well was wet and no drainage the water just sat in between the ribs,, him (the last owner) having it in the water for only 3 months a year and it on the hard for the rest of the year allowed it to dry out, though long term in the water this water can not dry out, so this will be sorted out as well.

boom goose neck removed, new mounting plate made up, now just waiting for the right time to raise the main to get the new boom hight, im parked with the stern into to wind, and there hasnt been many a wind less days at the right time, so still waiting to set that so i can start on the now smaller then planed dodger, but i think it will still work in ok. but we shall see in time i guess.

most anti foul has been removed and a much smoother surface for the repainting is being achieved, looks so much smoother and just really makes her look as if someone cares, if that makes sence to any one.

new electrics, cd/radio mounted into the forward bulkhead, along with a 6switch power board, to run the DVD/TV, CD/radio, computer recharger, and other power outlets. ive desided im sick of the light power sockets, there all ways over heating and melting, a real fire hazard, they get a slight bit of corrosion and dont make contact properly heat up and bam another burnt out, and no i dint have fuses on them, they where sill the old wiring.

a new main power control and switches board. new buzz bars, still waiting on tinned wire to complete this work.

and with all that there is still so much work ahead but like a said least now its fixed properly, and i guess with each day that goes past i get to say boats, dont tell me about boats i know boat but in that should i ever get the chance to upgrade down the track, i dont believe ill get scammed again thats for sure, its been a very big learning exp just how good something can look to the untrained eye, my mate goes along and points theres air unter there, there , there, and sure enough i grind the area back or he does and open pockets of air. so after all this she should live for another 45years

OH! Question for any one that may now or already done,
*epoxy wood treat meant. what paint can be used to seal, prime and coat with? i cant use flow coat sadly as it does not like being painted onto epoxy surfaces. so whaat can i use? i cant seem to find much in search, or im missing whats being written.
regards all hopeing all is well you ways

 

I'd recommend good quality latex however the yachties tend to be horrified by it.

 

latex? why and could you explain it a bit more, and why would yachty's be horrified? im taking it your answering the paint question, and talking about a latex paint?

 

YES. From my experience, Latex is OK for decks cabin tops etc: but not on the topsides or below the waterline.
I would recommend marine polyurethane paint. I f you give the epoxy surface a light scrub with a scotchbrite pad and hot soapy water, rinsing it with fresh water and letting it dry thoroughly, you can paint it with two coats of a good polyurethane paint. No primer required. Make sure the paint has an ultra violet protective in it. Very important if you want a long lasting finish. Just my 2c.

 

Sorry Old sailor it is great for topsides and underwings etc....It handles prolonged immersion excellent, is easy to apply and has no harmful solvents to breath. It lasts for years- look at those houses and is easy to touch up. I use high quality latex and have never been disappointed. There are people though who feel it devalues a boat compared to an expensive paint system but in terms of longevity it easily compares (except for decks) and is far easier and safer to use.
I saw your boat on a listing Taow, was that an old ad or are you moving on?

 

must have been an old add. strange it would be still up though. especially being that the brokers got raked over the coals by there accreditors. still waiting to hear if they lost there accreditation over it. they were put before the board and all and asked to explain why they should keep there accreditation and give 14day in which to reply back to the accreditation board.
about time someone made scamming brokers pay for dodgy acts.
plus ive put to much $ and time into it now to just walk away
maybe when i return from sailing this year i will think about her future. but at the moment we are removing and repairing all the dodgy repairs from the last owners doing. shes coming along, slowly but getting there, just taking longer, but will be better, faster and stronger then before, we have the tech to make the world first bionic boat jk but she will be much improved once finished.

thanks old sailor and cav for your thoughts
i ended up going with a marine 2pak epoxy paint, cost more but nips the problem in the butt, either way.
cheers guys

 

It sounds like your doing a thorough job, well done. It's a pain now but will pay dividends in the future.

 

Good for you Taow, I'm needing some warmer weather here but still getting odd jobs done waiting for it to warm up.

 

yes shes old and not a racer, but shes mine and my little bit of freedom. yes is alot of pain with all the extra things found, but least i will know there done properly now, none of this glassing over anti foul with peeled up 250g mesh **** that was done. side keels dont budge an inch now theyve been glassed over properly and look so much sleeker. pro pitch was at wrong pitch, was twisted 9mm to the right pitch. but as i said shes coming along with ever day of work that passes. to just see the changes as there made is a smile maker, just a shame the last owner and brokers werent honest and upfront with me. but then silly me to think they would have been i guess. well they didnt get off with it lightly and its still going through fair trading ive just gotta send the paper work back to them. get carried away when im working on her. and my mate whos helping me with the glassing hates doing shitty work, almost a perfectionest. which is good cause hes doing an amazing bloody job, considering theres 3 times the amount of work i him and thought there was to do. be lost with out him. when he needs an extra set of hands he calls me other wise im working on the other jobs getting them out of the way, and on the weekends my son comes down, and helps with working between the to of us.
cheers corley

 

cheers cav, yeah bit of wet weather around this way which hasnt been helping, but looking forward to re-slipping her back into the water, roughly 4 to 5 weeks from now

 

Wanderer pdf

Here is the layout and profile drawing of Wanderer from the brochure Paddy sent me. I couldn't get my graphics program to rotate it without loosing quality so adjust for yourselves or hit print. I'll try to sort it out for the other models.