diy surface drive?

Discussion in 'Surface Drives' started by moTthediesel, Apr 19, 2006.

  1. IMP-ish
    Joined: Jan 2011
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    Location: united states of america

    IMP-ish powerboater

    Thanks for posing the photos and descriptions of your setup above.
    I like the notion of engineering something like that for yourself.
    Kudos.
     
  2. stupidbaker57
    Joined: Jan 2011
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    Location: Lakeville Ma

    stupidbaker57 Junior Member

    I've been thinking and redesigned the drive. It will now be TRIMMABLE. This won't work for a lot of you guys, but for my small 11 foot boat, it sounds easy enough.
    Instead of U joints, I thought I'd trim the whole drive train. The engine bed will share the same mount as the shaft tube and trim bars.
    To increase the depth of the prop, lift the engine up at the forword end. The cradle is pivoted at the rear of the engine compartment. To increase speed, lower the engine in order to put the prop up near the surface.
    I first made a wood mock-up of the cradle and then of steel.
    Raising and lowering will be done by an acme screw and an automotive power window motor. Shifting the transmission will be done by a power door lock acuator.

    Dave
     
  3. stupidbaker57
    Joined: Jan 2011
    Posts: 67
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    Location: Lakeville Ma

    stupidbaker57 Junior Member

    DSCF0006.JPG

    DSCF0007.JPG

    DSCF0005.JPG I've been thinking and redesigned the drive. It will now be TRIMMABLE. This won't work for a lot of you guys, but for my small 11 foot boat, it sounds easy enough.
    Instead of U joints, I thought I'd trim the whole drive train. The engine bed will share the same mount as the shaft tube and trim bars.
    To increase the depth of the prop, lift the engine up at the forword end. The cradle is pivoted at the rear of the engine compartment. To increase speed, lower the engine in order to put the prop up near the surface.
    I first made a wood mock-up of the cradle and then of steel.
    Raising and lowering will be done by an acme screw and an automotive power window motor. Shifting the transmission will be done by a power door lock acuator.

    Dave
     
  4. tom kane
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Hamilton.New Zealand.

    tom kane Senior Member

    The image shows the first outboard supplied to the public.The first long-tail boat in the Paris Exhibition c 1900`s. french colonies adopted them every where.
     

    Attached Files:

  5. stupidbaker57
    Joined: Jan 2011
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    Location: Lakeville Ma

    stupidbaker57 Junior Member

    DSCF0003.JPG

    DSCF0001.JPG

    DSCF0012.JPG

    DSCF0011.JPG Here's some more pictures of my progress. The cradle pivots just fine for trimming. The rudder is still being milled along with the jack shaft. Now the wiring needs to be done.
     
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  6. Cawley
    Joined: Aug 2011
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    Location: Treasure Island

    Cawley Junior Member

  7. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
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    Location: Milwaukee, WI

    gonzo Senior Member

    Trimming a surface drive can be a really bad idea. It can make the boat get out of control. A proper setup should be able to be trimmed with the throttle. Also, it is really important to work the throttle properly when you go airborne so as not to lose control.
     
  8. Frosty

    Frosty Previous Member

    Why do they make them trimmable then?
     
  9. Rik
    Joined: Dec 2007
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    Location: California

    Rik Senior Member

    Where do you come up with this stuff? Do you actually have experience or ?

    If your idea is correct, then every I/O and Outboard should be fixed with no trim capability due to fear of the operator's thumb making the boat get out of control. Unfortunately no one would buy an I/O nor outboard without trim. Why do these matter? B/C they too can be configured as a surface drive, it is all a matter of the installed height. Likewise the same can be said of surface drives. The ability to trim has added benefits over the inability to trim.
     
  10. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
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    Location: Milwaukee, WI

    gonzo Senior Member

    Once you have the trim set up, it doesn't need to be changed continuosly. Surface drives, with their long leverage, make changes more drastic. It should be possible to control the boat with throttle changes when you are goind downwind, for example. An outboard installed for surface propellers and an surface drives are quite different, because of the distance the propeller is from the boat. Early surface drives use to trim up to ventilate the propeller and unload it for the "hole shot". Now they are usually left down and ventilated with the exhaust or other means.
     
  11. stupidbaker57
    Joined: Jan 2011
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    Location: Lakeville Ma

    stupidbaker57 Junior Member

    The reason for a trimable surface drive, at least on THIS boat, is this is a Hal Kelly design that glups in mass amounts of air at the front and compresses it to a point of lifting the transom considerably up. If the trim is fixed for one speed, it may not be right for a different speed, like comming out of a turn or heading into the wind.
     
  12. Frosty

    Frosty Previous Member

    So the intricate hydraulics of the Arneson are no longer needed and the fixed type such as the Levi drive is preferable that accomodates for ventilation in its design,-- disregarding the financial savings?
     
  13. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
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    gonzo Senior Member

    Yes, the Arneson is a complicated design. As with all technology, things get improved with experimentation.
     
  14. Rik
    Joined: Dec 2007
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    Location: California

    Rik Senior Member

    Once again, where do you get this stuff? So the throttle will change the boats attitude and engine load as well as speed regardless of everything else? You are stepping back in time and are tied to the problems of the past with this thinking.
     

  15. IMP-ish
    Joined: Jan 2011
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    IMP-ish powerboater

    Arnesons dominate on fast poker run boats. Only reason I don't own a pair of arneson bravo conversions is the $$,$$$.

    Kudos again on your DIY stupidbaker57.
     
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